With the month of Adar II in full swing, I took the liberty of coining
a new term, which will hopefully not stick in your minds for too long.
Pest infestation is a common bane for many, especially if you live in
London. It has been reported that there might well be more rodents in
the various labyrinths sprawling underneath the city - think of the
River Thames, the sewers and the Underground tunnel systems and other
sub-terra spaces that Rats call home. The problem really becomes
yours when these critters decide to come above ground level and they
happen to feel cosy under your floorboards or worse, the well- heated
rooms in your house. However much we try to protect ourselves, it
takes ingenuity, stamina and endurance to fend off these little
invaders and keep them out indefinitely. Those cute broad-tailed
Squirrels pose a similar problem with sometimes worse consequences
than their thin-tailed cousins. Many houses in the suburbs are
damaged by squirrels gnawing through wooden trusses, beams and
floorboards in the upper floors. Both of these species are notorious
for amongst others chewing the rubber insulation of electrical cables,
which sadly ends in their demise. A common side effect could lead to
broken leads, severing your power supply. Pigeons and other
city-dwelling birds may contribute to filthy window sills and
windscreens, contamination of water tanks and may also cause gradual
degradation of the paintwork if exposed to droppings. So, what makes
you think that you have one or more of those unwanted visitors
squatting above or beneath you? Usually you will find an increase in
tourist traffic when a building project gets underway in the vicinity
of your home. Rats and mice like the peace and quiet afforded by
built-up areas; once the power tools cause vibrations, they will come
out of their holes looking for more pastoral pastures. Remember: if
you've seen a delivery of a pallet of building bricks, you may well
expect a marked increase of Rodential visits.... Prevention is
paramount if you want to save money, anguish and neighbourly
relations: to be protected means to be prepared.
Rule 1. When you see a rat, keep cool, even when you feel like
panicking - you will achieve next to nothing.
Rule 2. Always sweep up after a meal, ensure toddlers have only food
that don't crumble and keep fruit and vegetables in strong enclosures.
Failing to follow up on this vital housekeeping is like putting out a
sign (in rat language) saying: Welcome!
Rule 3. Using one of the following won't solve the problem: Sticky
Pads, Traps, Poison and the like will not address the root of the
problem. If I may use the Talmud's saying and apply it to our case in
hand: ??? ????? ??? ??? ???? ??? Lav Achbara Ganev Elo Chore Ganev
(lit. the mouse isn't the thief, only the hole): Find out where it
came from; only follow the following instructions if you really want
to solve your problem: get down on all fours and 'walk' around the
perimeters of the rooms on the ground floor, this way you might feel a
slight breeze coming your way. You can find more openings by checking
the air vents in the lower part of your window bays, where grilles may
be broken or bent. These could just be the direction from where the
rat comes in as it will always be looking for an exit towards the
upper parts, which is your ground floor.
Rule 4. Once you identify all possible entrance avenues, use steel
chicken wire - they can easily chew through plain metal ones - and
affix it to the openings. This way your house can still benefit from
the airflow that is provided by the vents yet it will prevent unwanted
guests from paying you a visit. Similarly, install bird guards to
prevent them from landing on the surfaces around your house.
Rule 5. If you find some of the openings unnecessary and you want to
block them off, don't use plain cement; rats can work their way
through it quite easily and mice find cement nice. Just add glass:
break a glass container to bits and mix it with the cement, then block
the hole with the mixture. Be careful when working with this potion
as - remember? - it contains glass shards. Once a rat gets its teeth
bloody on the glass, it will go away looking for an easier target and
hey, the SPCA doesn't work underground...
Rule 6. Whilst it is deplorable that these creatures are at times so
revolting, do take youngsters to a wildlife park, a zoo or farm. This
will ensure they grow up knowing that these critters exists in real
life too, not just in story books...
Rule 7. Last but not least: With the upcoming Purim Yom Tov, please be
mindful of people whom even a Rabbit costume gives them the shivers;
tell the kids to at least take off their hoods when knocking on
people's doors.
Bikur Cholim בקור חולים
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Electrical safety in the garden
Safety of Electrical installations in the garden and Sukkah
Many of us have a need, from time to time, to use electrical equipment in the garden. Whether it be plugging in permanent fixtures like Sukkah lights or temporary equipment like a lawnmower so we can keep our grass nice and trim, wielding a hedge trimmer for Schach or to keep our boundaries in order or drilling holes in the Sukkah boards, electricity tends to be the power source we use. But this carries a certain amount of risk: cables can easily be cut by moving blades, while poor quality or poorly maintained electrical connections and exposure to damp or moisture heightens the risk of electrical shock, injury and even death. Before using electricity in the garden we should therefore take appropriate precautions to limit our exposure to these risks.
Residual Current Devices
The simplest and most cost-effective way to protect ourselves when using electrical equipment in the garden is to use a Residual Current Device (RCD) between the mains power point and the electrical equipment that is to be used. If the equipment plugs directly into an indoor socket it should interface with (= sit in between) the RCD, the RCD then being plugged into the mains. If an extension cable is used then it should be the extension lead's plug that interfaces with the RCD at the main power point.
RCDs work by cutting the power to the mains and breaking the circuit in the event that a fault develops with the equipment, or if the cable is cut. It essentially isolates us from the mains power, preventing us coming to any harm. Proper use of an RCD is extremely important. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, and if in doubt use the 'test' button to ensure that the RCD works as it should.
Outside Sockets
RCDs are temporary safety mechanisms. A more permanent solution comes in the shape of outdoor sockets. These are weatherproofed units that may be permanently sited outside. Connections are rubberised and the socket itself is protected from moisture thanks to a springloaded flap. Modern outside sockets now come complete with a ground spike. This allows you to plant the socket anywhere you wish in your garden.
For frequent and/or heavy duty use you may want to consider an external wall-mounted socket cabled from your property. For such an installation a competent person with experience of outside socket work should be employed to install it.
Employ some common sense
Accidents involving electrical equipment in the garden are almost entirely avoidable. We just have to be aware of the dangers and employ some basic common sense. Here are some tips to keep you safe next time you are out in the garden with the lawnmower or hedge trimmer.
Avoid using electrical gardening equipment in the rain
Do not attempt to repair equipment whilst still connected to the power
Do not wash electrical equipment with water
Do not operate electrical equipment without footwear
Landlords-energy efficiency assessments
Landlords! Are you prepared for the introduction of energy efficiency assessments and certificates?
October 1, 2008 -- mark this date in your diaries, for this is the date on which Energy Performance Certificates (EPCs) become a legal requirement for rental properties in England and Wales - apart from it being the second day Rosh HaShana. Any new tenancies, by law must be accompanied by an EPC as evidence of the property's energy efficiency rating. If you have a high turnover of tenants you need to act NOW, otherwise you may fall foul of the law should you attempt to rent out your property after October 1st without an EPC.
What are EPCs?
An Energy Performance Certificate is a document that states how energy-efficient your property is and how much of an impact it is having on the environment. The certificate is set out in a similar design to the energy efficiency labels that are found on kitchen appliances, ranking your property on a scale from A to G, 'A' being the best efficiency rating; 'G' being the worst.
Naturally, the higher your property's energy efficiency rating is, the lower its running costs are going to be… and the more attractive that property might become for prospective tenants, some of who would be willing to pay a premium for lower-cost living.
The certificate will also state the property's current running costs for hot water, heating and lighting, so allowing prospective tenants to assess how much it will cost them to live at the property. Furthermore, an EPC may mention Recommendations, divided into three levels: Lower cost measures - low outlay and faster return, Higher cost measures - higher outlay but slower returns and Further measures - financial rewards are elusive; you would only do it for the sake of getting more points on your EPC. Each level will list items that will improve your property's performance ratings.
How to obtain an EPC
To obtain an Energy Performance Certificate you MUST have your property inspected by a Domestic Energy Assessor (DEA). As landlord you can either arrange for a DEA to visit your property, or you can have your letting / managing agent make the arrangements for you.
When DEAs make their inspection they will look at and measure the energy performance of key components in your property. This includes your property's insulation, the performance of your boiler, and how well the property distributes and retains heat in general. Your EPC will be issued within a short time, mostly within a few days of the DEA's assessment.
Improving the energy efficiency of your property
There are several ways to improve the energy efficiency of your property ahead of an inspection. The simplest and cheapest option is to 'beef-up' your loft insulation. By increasing the depth of insulation to 270mm you'll lower your property's running costs and score a higher rating on the DEA's assessment. Other steps you can take include: installing cavity wall insulation or double glazing, fitting a thermal jacket to your hot water tank, servicing your boiler or fitting Draught excluders on doors and windows.
Although the improvements suggested above might cost more than the potential savings in the first year - it could well benefit your investment in the long run. Apart from offering your would-be tenants lower bills (which will not change your own bottom line the least) still the improvements will go a long way to increase the price tag of your property.
October 1, 2008 -- mark this date in your diaries, for this is the date on which Energy Performance Certificates (EPCs) become a legal requirement for rental properties in England and Wales - apart from it being the second day Rosh HaShana. Any new tenancies, by law must be accompanied by an EPC as evidence of the property's energy efficiency rating. If you have a high turnover of tenants you need to act NOW, otherwise you may fall foul of the law should you attempt to rent out your property after October 1st without an EPC.
What are EPCs?
An Energy Performance Certificate is a document that states how energy-efficient your property is and how much of an impact it is having on the environment. The certificate is set out in a similar design to the energy efficiency labels that are found on kitchen appliances, ranking your property on a scale from A to G, 'A' being the best efficiency rating; 'G' being the worst.
Naturally, the higher your property's energy efficiency rating is, the lower its running costs are going to be… and the more attractive that property might become for prospective tenants, some of who would be willing to pay a premium for lower-cost living.
The certificate will also state the property's current running costs for hot water, heating and lighting, so allowing prospective tenants to assess how much it will cost them to live at the property. Furthermore, an EPC may mention Recommendations, divided into three levels: Lower cost measures - low outlay and faster return, Higher cost measures - higher outlay but slower returns and Further measures - financial rewards are elusive; you would only do it for the sake of getting more points on your EPC. Each level will list items that will improve your property's performance ratings.
How to obtain an EPC
To obtain an Energy Performance Certificate you MUST have your property inspected by a Domestic Energy Assessor (DEA). As landlord you can either arrange for a DEA to visit your property, or you can have your letting / managing agent make the arrangements for you.
When DEAs make their inspection they will look at and measure the energy performance of key components in your property. This includes your property's insulation, the performance of your boiler, and how well the property distributes and retains heat in general. Your EPC will be issued within a short time, mostly within a few days of the DEA's assessment.
Improving the energy efficiency of your property
There are several ways to improve the energy efficiency of your property ahead of an inspection. The simplest and cheapest option is to 'beef-up' your loft insulation. By increasing the depth of insulation to 270mm you'll lower your property's running costs and score a higher rating on the DEA's assessment. Other steps you can take include: installing cavity wall insulation or double glazing, fitting a thermal jacket to your hot water tank, servicing your boiler or fitting Draught excluders on doors and windows.
Although the improvements suggested above might cost more than the potential savings in the first year - it could well benefit your investment in the long run. Apart from offering your would-be tenants lower bills (which will not change your own bottom line the least) still the improvements will go a long way to increase the price tag of your property.
Solar Energy Pointers
Solar Power - Installing Solar Powered devices
Below are some pointers for contemplation, the list is not exhaustive
- pollution-free
- energy systems
- alternative energy
- wave energy
- windmills
- hydrogen generators
- geothermal
- alternative fuels
- Biodiesel (produced from vegetable oils), - biodegradable, nontoxic, nearly sulfur-free, has no aroma
- Bio, including Bio-Ethanol (made from crops like corn) and
- capture the sun's energy
- conventional solar cells
- fuels cells
- global warming
- carbon footprint
- photovoltaic (PV) products
- solar panels - The earth's surface receives an amount of solar energy that is nearly 10,000 times bigger than the world's total primary energy supply. It's perfectly possible to meet global energy demand with renewable energy -- despite the growing population and rising standard of living! The truth is -- the companies pioneering these revolutionary new technologies exist right now.
- Free-Power Technologies
- It's the next big energy boom: Data from the Solar Energy Industries Association shows that solar energy prices will compete with natural gas-fired generation within the next five to eight years.
- photovoltaic foil – a thin-film solar cell that revolutionized the solar industry. Their products are lightweight, durable, and flexible.
To your peace of mind - Part II
To your peace of mind, no matter what the season - PART II
Emergency Maintenance Contracts are an increasingly important part of the homeowner’s toolkit. They bring an assurance that, should equipment or installations in the home break down, someone is on call to deal with the situation, issue advice and, most importantly, come out and fix the problem immediately, day or night for free. There’s no need to rifle through the phone directory in search of repairers, or worry about how long you will have to wait before an engineer can reach you. With an Emergency Maintenance Contract (EMC) you have no such inconveniences. Instead you have access to a 24/7 emergency repair service offering practical advice and emergency cover for a wide range of home appliance and utilities (break down) [breakdown] issues. No matter where you are in the UK, a qualified engineer will be dispatched to your property within hours to diagnose and repair the problem. It’s a fast and reliable service that offers genuine peace of mind to all homeowners, from the elderly and infirm to first time buyers.
Emergency Maintenance Contracts for Landlords
But Emergency Maintenance Contracts are not the exclusive domain of the homeowner. Landlords and tenants can gain much from an EMC too. In fact, for landlords working through a Housing Association, an EMC is often now a requirement, the reason being it effectively guarantees that only qualified personnel can work on equipment and installations in the property, cutting out issues that could jeopardise the landlord’s business or expose them to prosecution, as could well be the case if repair issues were left in the hands of a variety of local contractors, or worse, a friend of the tenant.
It offers immense convenience too. When a tenant reports a problem, what is the first thing you, as the landlord, must do? That’s right – pretty much drop everything and go searching the Internet or the businesses pages of the local phone directory to track down a suitable repair engineer. Several phone calls later and you still might not have an engineer who can come out this week, let alone on the same day as you make the call. It’s time consuming on your part, and in the eyes of your tenant, and perhaps the Housing Association you work with, it’s unprofessional – an issue that could well lose you business.
Even if you’ve got contacts already in place, it’s only on rare occasions that the engineer can get over to your tenant’s property straightaway. Most likely they’ll be on another job, and have several more lined up too before they can visit the property. If it’s an emergency, the tenant may not be able to wait that long!
Having an (EMC) [Emergency Maintenance Contract] in place avoids these hassles. Simply call your Emergency Maintenance Contract provider and your tenant’s problems are taken care of – easy!
But what about cost? Well, you might be surprised to learn just how cost effective putting an Emergency Maintenance Contract in place can be. If you want proof, just add up what you spent on dealing with emergency repair issues in your rental properties during the last 12 months. How about boiler servicing and the cost of having those annual certification checks? Don’t forget too to add on the cost of all those one-off jobs for the tenant, such as unblocking drains and fixing or replacing appliances. With prices for Emergency Maintenance Contracts starting at less than £200, you’re almost certain to find that an EMC will save you money as once it is in place it won’t cost you a penny more!
Are you a tenant?
Emergency Maintenance Contracts provide the same benefits to tenants as they do to homeowners. Ask your landlord to provide an EMC for the property – for your peace of mind you might want to only consider accommodation where the landlord does supply an EMC. This way, if a gas or electrical installation becomes faulty, or equipment and appliances supplied by the landlord break down, you are GUARANTEED a rapid response to the issue – an engineer could be with you in as little as four hours of you reporting the problem.
It’ll certainly be less for you to worry about, and means that you won’t have to contend with a slow service from the landlord, or wait for weeks or even months to get a fault fixed.
To benefit from an (EMC) [Emergency Maintenance Contract] you’ll need to request a copy of the Contract from your landlord. On it will be a policy reference number and a telephone number to call to request emergency assistance. You’ll need to quote the policy reference number when you call, so keep the Contract by the phone ( [or stick a note on yourboiler], or ) make a note of the telephone number and policy number so that it is within easy reach for when you need it.
One last point to bear in mind – if your landlord has an (EMC) [Emergency Maintenance Contract] in place, DON’T call your mates or a friend of a friend to come and carry out repairs. Your landlord can get it all done for free!
An (EMC) [Emergency Maintenance Contract] for every occasion
Homeowner, tenant[, managing agent] or landlord – it matters not who you are(, [or ] ) the type of property you live in (or its current condition); an Emergency Maintenance Contract can save you a lot of time and a whole heap of unnecessary expense. If you want to guarantee that your boiler and gas fire are in good hands this winter, or indeed at any time of the year – and if you want the assurance that all those summer emergencies* are covered, ( like faulty air conditioning units or a broken water pump in the outdoor jacuzzi,) an (EMC) [Emergency Maintenance Contract] is about the only thing you need!
*Note: Items [like faulty air conditioning units or a broken water pump in the outdoor jacuzzi,] Flood damage[and awnings or Succah and its roof ] (is) [are] generally not included as part of Emergency Maintenance Contracts,
Safe Window Replacements
Safe Window Replacements: What every buy-to-let property owner should know
In April 2002 the act of replacing windows in a property became subject to Buildings Regulations. The new law, which was, and still is, designed to help buildings comply with energy efficiency directives, specifically thermal performance standards for glazing, means that any replacement windows installed after 1 April 2002 MUST be / have been installed by either
A person or company registered with the Fenestration Self-Assessment Scheme (FENSA), or
By a competent individual or firm with specific Buildings Regulations consent from the local authority.
Either way, a certificate to show that replacement windows comply with the new regulations is issued upon completion of the install.
Should you have replaced windows in your property without observing the Buildings Regulations as they apply, you could have a few problems to deal with. Firstly, if you want to sell your property, the buyer's solicitor will make a specific check to ensure that Buildings Regulations were observed for any window replacements. This they will do by asking you to produce your compliance certificate(s). If you don't have them you could find your property difficult, if not impossible to sell.
The second issue is that if the council is alerted to the fact that your replacement windows were not certified, you could have a building control inspector on your doorstep! If, after inspection, your replaced windows are found not to comply with current thermal performance standards, you may be asked to replace the units again.
DIY Window Replacements
Are you planning on replacing windows yourself? If so, here's what you must do to comply with the law…
Submit a Building Notice / Application to your local authority -- Contact the Building Control department of your local authority and ask for a Building Notice or Application form for permission to install replacement windows. Some local authorities allow you to download the form off the Internet, and even submit your application online.
Obtain Approval -- Local authorities approve applications as default, normally within 2-3 days of receiving the notice. You will be asked to provide an installation date.
Inspections -- The local authority will likely make two inspections. The first inspection is conducted at commencement of the work; the second after completion. If the glazing does not meet the required inspection standards at either point, the units will not be approved and you will have to replace them again.
Completion Certificate -- Assuming the authority inspector approves the final installation, a Completion Certificate is issued. This must be retained and produced as evidence of compliance upon your property's sale.
Your role as landlord
Before replacing windows at your rental property you will need to inform the tenant and make arrangements for access to be granted to the installer on the day of installation. For the tenant's safety and the safety of the installer you should ask the tenant to remove items fixed to the existing window glass, and to remove items on the windowsill. Also ask the tenant to move any objects that they've placed directly outside the window which could obstruct the installer, such as plant pots and garden ornaments. If the tenant is responsible for the maintenance of trees, plants and foliage on the property, make sure that none obstruct the area where the installer will work. This should include, where necessary, the control and cut back of wall-growing ivy that might encroach on the window space.
Advice for tenants
Unless your lease agreement states otherwise, your landlord is responsible for the replacement of windows at your property. The costs involved may be passed onto you if the underlying reason for replacement was due to damage (deliberate or accidental) caused by your actions. However, if the damage was accidental and not your fault - for example if a tree branch falls and breaks the window - you will most likely not be charged for the replacement.
Where windows are fixed into wooden frames it is possible that over time the wood will rot and decay. Again it is the responsibility of the landlord to repair the frame or replace it. However, if you feel that the frame has rotted to such an extent as to pose a hazard to you or the public - for example if the glass pane is loose and liable to fall out - the landlord has a duty to take action under their property safety remit. In the event that your landlord is unresponsive to your requests to repair / replace the frame, contact your local authority for advice.
Gas Safety for Landlords and Homeowners
Gas Safety for Landlords and Homeowners
Millions of households across Britain rely on natural gas for heating and cooking. It is a fuel that is often perceived as a cheap alternative to electricity; some even prefer to use it instead of electricity. But for all the convenience it brings, we should remember that gas has a deadly side to it. Not only can it bring about carbon monoxide poisoning as a result of gas appliances not burning their fuel efficiently, but a build up of gas can also cause an explosion due to its high level of flammability. Great care must therefore be taken in installing and maintaining gas appliances, and also in their use.
Gas in the home
The Health and Safety Executive recommend that domestic gas appliances in the home be checked for their continued safety once every 12 months. Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, only Council of Register Gas Installers (CORGI) engineers are allowed to service and maintain gas appliances. In fact it is now illegal for an unqualified person to interfere with the gas supply into a property, or work on or install a gas appliance. Anyone installing a gas cooker for example must be CORGI-Registered. Homeowners with knowledge of gas appliance installations could disconnect and/or reconnect bayonet fittings if they wanted to - for the latest rules governing this please refer to the 1998 Regulations and updates provided by the Health and Safety Executive. But the law states that a CORGI-Registered engineer MUST be the person who connects the hose / appliance to the gas supply.
Gas in rented property
Renting out property in the UK requires that landlords adhere to a mass of laws to ensure the safety of their tenants. Among them is the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998. Under this umbrella of legislation landlords must:
Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for installation of new gas appliances, pipe work and flues -- the flues being the pipes and vents that remove burnt gas from appliances and out of the house.
Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for maintenance of gas appliances, pipe work and flues (as above).
Arrange for annual gas safety checks at the rented property every 12 months. Checks are to be performed by a CORGI-Registered engineer. If gas installations are passed as safe the engineer will issue a Gas Safety Certificate. Should repair work be necessary, the landlord MUST (by law) enlist the services of a CORGI-Registered engineer to carry out the repair work.
Keep records of safety checks for a minimum of two years.
Provide a copy of the Gas Safety Certificate to existing tenants in the property within 28 days of issue by the engineer. For new tenants a copy of the current Gas Safety Certificate must be supplied at the beginning of the tenancy.
For landlords the requirements may seem like a lot of red tape, and just a further expense in running a rental property. However, the Regulations are there for a reason -- to save lives.
The importance of gas safety checks
In September 2005 52-year old Charles Cook from the Middleton area of Greater Manchester suffered serious burns after a gas explosion at his home in the early hours of the morning. The blast, thought to have been caused by a gas leak, destroyed the property and damaged neighbouring houses. Mr Cook was taken to hospital and spent time in intensive care to recover from the ordeal. Sadly, Mr Cook's experience is repeated all too often in homes around the country where regular safety checks on gas appliances have been absent. In some cases the blasts are fatal resulting in a tragic loss of life from situations that might have been avoided had safety checks been implemented.
What to do if you smell gas
While gas safety checks are designed to keep you safe long-term, there is still the chance that a gas appliance might malfunction, or that a gas leak develops in the pipe work between annual safety checks. If you smell gas, this is what you need to do:
Call the National Grid's Gas Emergency number immediately. It is a freephone number -- 0800 111 999
Open all doors and windows to help gas escape. DO NOT use light switches or handle a naked flame. Both could ignite the gas.
Shut off the gas supply. This is done at the meter cupboard by operating the shut-off valve. For your peace of mind and for your safety it is a good idea to locate and practice operating the shut off valve. By doing so you'll have practical experience to call on in the event of a real life gas emergency.
Information about CORGI
CORGI started life as a voluntary organisation in 1970 following a gas cooker explosion in a block of flats in London that caused part of the building to collapse. Some 4,000 gas operatives joined the scheme initially, and by 1991 it became a statutory requirement for anyone working with gas to gain CORGI registration. Today CORGI has some 110,000 engineers operating in the UK. Their work is regulated in the field by CORGI inspectors, each CORGI engineer being required to prove their competence with gas once every five years.
A NICEIC Inspection Saves Lives
A NICEIC Inspection saves lives
It is very easy to take electricity for granted. For many of us, the invisible force that lights our homes, helps us cook our meals and powers our computers and home appliances is only ever noticed when it is not there. A power outage, for example, underlines the true impact that electricity has on our lives. The same could be said of electrical hazards -- it is often not until we hear or read about the dangers of electricity, or experience for ourselves an electric shock, burn or even a fire caused by faulty electrical equipment or wiring, that we become appreciative of just how harmful electricity can be.
Faulty wiring kills
In Britain around 10 people die each year and approximately 750 are injured, some badly so, when they come into contact with faulty wiring in the home. Newspaper archives reveal their stories. Some have suffered severe burns; others have had limbs removed to save their lives - and these are the lucky ones. Baroness Tonge, former MP for Richmond Park in London, lost her daughter, Mary Wherry, when she was electrocuted by a metal plate rack fixed to the wall. The rack was in contact with unsafe wiring in the wall, rendering the rack live. Electricity really does not discriminate.
First Aid
Should you be first on the scene to someone who has received an electric shock, great care must be taken in administering first aid. If the injured person is still in contact with the electric current they could be 'live', and could pass that current through to you if you touch them. Your priority then is to make the situation as safe as possible before helping the victim.
First, if it is safe to do so, turn off the power at the mains. Next, separate the injured person from the faulty appliance using a non-conductive item, such as a wooden broom handle. This is important as even in situations where the power is off there could be enough residual current in the injured person's body to shock you.
Once you are confident that there is no further danger to you, check the victim for life signs and call for an ambulance. If the victim is not breathing, start resuscitation. Should the person be conscious keep them calm and attend to injuries where possible. For burns, look to cool them with water -- NEVER use ointments or oils on the burns. Stay at the scene with the victim until the ambulance crew arrive and explain to them what happened. The ambulance crew will do the rest, whilst you should then start praying for the injured.
Preventative measures
Electric shocks arising from faulty equipment and wiring are largely preventable. To reduce the risk in your home all you need do is schedule an inspection of your electrical installations by a NICEIC registered electrician. The electrician will inspect all electrical fittings and circuit wiring in your property to ensure it is safe. They will produce a report, known as a "Periodic Inspection Report for an Electrical Installation" or NICEIC Certificate in short, which will detail the results of their findings. If an electrical installation is found to be unsafe the electrician will notify you of the problem and provide you with an estimate to correct the fault.
For fault correction (and new electrical work) in your property you are now required by law to use a competent person or firm approved by the government under Part-P of the Buildings Regulations. By opting to use a suitably qualified contractor who is registered with the NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting) you'll comply with these requirements. It'll afford you peace of mind too -- NICEIC registered electricians guarantee that their work meets approved industry standards and they'll provide you with up to a six-year - and in case of new-build, up to a ten year - warranty as well. What more could you ask for?
NICEIC inspections are available to homeowners and landlords alike. However, whereas homeowners can decide for themselves whether or not to check their electrical installations, landlords have a duty to ensure the safety of their tenants, and so must carry out periodic checks. This is normally done whenever there is a change of tenant, the reason being that the departing tenant may have altered, installed or damaged electrical installations without notifying the landlord, or even worse, commissioned unqualified workers to carry out those alterations. Periodic NICEIC inspections help landlords comply with the law here, keeping tenants safe from potentially dangerous electrics that might be present in the property.
What is the Part P Regulations
What is the "Part-P" electricity regulation and how does it affect you?
If you have had any work done on electrical installations in your home or rental property during the last couple of years you are no doubt already familiar with "Part-P" legislation. For the uninitiated, Part-P is a new requirement introduced into the Building Regulations code by the government. It came into force on January 1, 2005 and was subsequently updated in April 2006. Its purpose is to reduce the number of faulty electrical installations present in homes across the UK, and to make it more difficult for "cowboy" installers to fit unsafe electrics into a property. The ultimate aim to is to ensure the reduction of fires, injuries and even fatalities that are caused by unsafe electrical installations. Given that compliance with Part-P is now a legal requirement when undertaking all types of electrical work in a dwelling, the new regulation is one that we should all become familiar with, whether that be as a householder, as a landlord or as both.
What must we do to comply with the Part-P regulation?
Part-P legislation requires that any electrical work carried out in our homes or rental properties must now satisfy one of two criteria:
Criterion #1 - The electrical work must be performed by a firm or installer registered on a government-approved competent persons scheme. Membership of the scheme is awarded to installers who are proven capable of self-certifying that electrical work carried out for its clients complies with the Building Regulations, specifically Part-P of those regulations. This criterion is the preferred compliance option.
Criterion #2 - If electrical work is carried out by an installer who is not registered as a "competent person" - as property owner it is your decision as to whether to use a registered competent person or not - the unregistered installer must arrange for the work to be inspected upon completion by the local authority's building control department.
As owner of the property and recipient of any electrical works performed on it, the onus is on you to ensure that whoever you use to do the job complies with either one of these criteria. Failure to do so is a criminal offence and could result in you and the installer receiving a hefty fine or worse.
Can I carry out electrical DIY work?
The short answer is 'yes'! Anyone can carry out electrical DIY work on their own property. However, the work performed, no matter how minor, must comply with Part-P of the Building Regulations. This means that you either must be registered as a "competent" person yourself, or else notify your local authority's building control department of the work so that they can come and inspect it.
There is however an exception to this rule. If you are installing extra power points, new lighting switches or making alterations to an existing electrical circuit that is not in the bathroom, kitchen or outdoors, you do not need to advise the building control department about the work. For everything else - including new sockets in the bathroom, kitchen and outdoors - you do need to contact the building control department, or be registered as a competent person to self-certify the work.
A safer world with Part-P
As a report by The Electrical Safety Council from as recent as 31st of March 2008 states: "statistics of deaths by electricity are shocking" - it is therfore no wonder that the government is finally clamping down on this sorry state of affairs. Indeed, before the introduction of Part-P every year would see, on average, 10 deaths from faulty electrical installations, around 750 injuries and some 2,000 house fires caused by unsafe electrics. Now, with Part-P in place, those figures are expected to fall dramatically. This is one piece of legislation that really could save lives!
Air Conditioning
Air Conditioning: Improving the Air in your Home
Summer 2010 is now well and truly with us. With the temperature having peaked at 28 degrees Celsius in many locations across Southern England at the start of July, your thoughts could now be turning to how to keep cool in your home throughout the rest of the summer. While few will disagree that it is nice to have the sunshine and the heat of a summer's day when you can be outside to enjoy it, if you are praying, studying or working indoors the heat can make you tired and affect your concentration. At night heat collection in bedrooms can make sleeping difficult - adding further to your tiredness.
There are of course many different ways that you can cool yourself down, without installing air conditioning in your home, Shul and place of work. These include using items such as bedroom fans and portable air coolers. However, one of the most efficient ways to cool a room space quickly, so improving the air in your home, is to use an air conditioning unit. Some air conditioning units can even be used in the winter as very efficient and low-cost heaters!
The low-down on air conditioning units
An air conditioning unit performs two tasks:
It controls the temperature of the air by exhausting warm air out of the room via a vent or hose, and replacing it with cooled air at a constant, pre-set, controlled temperature from the air-con unit.
It controls the humidity level in the room by absorbing moisture from the air. This is an important function as air with high moisture content makes a room 'feel' much warmer than it is. By replacing the moist air with drier air from the air-con unit the environment becomes much more comfortable, even if the actual air temperature remains the same.
Air conditioning units have come down in price a lot. No longer are they the reserve of the rich. Portable air conditioning units that are quiet and capable of cooling an average sized master bedroom can be purchased today for under £200.00. Installed units that are fixed to the wall and vent directly outside are a little more expensive, but not unreasonably so.
Things to take into Consideration
Choosing an Installer
- The installer should ideally be registered with one of the following approval schemes: CORGI, NICEIC, ECA, NAPIT, HVCA or BESCA - specifically for Air Conditioning and Part P of the Building Regulations.
Planning
- If you can't afford to buy, you can always rent one
- Choose a unit that will not wake up the neighbours; there are models available that are less noisy than your average lawnmower...
- Calculate Air conditioner sizes, kW for buildings, rooms, etc, so that you will gain the most usage out of every unit.
- Hide the external unit, which might be seen as an eyesore as follows: Stick weatherproof contact paper with a "Brick-like" design to 'hide' the contraption into the brickwork...
- Wasted condensated water should discharge into a Gully or Soil Pipe, it should not discharge from Condensation Pipe onto the Floor
- Remember to find out whether you are required to Increase your Power Output AND how you will have to increase your electricity bill payments . . .
- Remember that setting up an Air Condition doesn't mean to have it turn the room temperature down to Arctic levels. Some people make the mistake of associating AIr Conditioning only with cold; they don't realise that the term Air Conditioning iplies just that: it conditions the aiir and this could be to make the room less hot or less cold! One can sometimes enter a room where the temperature is so low that the Central Heating needs to be turned on as if it's in the middle of the winter . . .
Wishing you a cool, healthy summer
PAT-Portable ApplianceTesting
PAT – Portable Appliance Testing
Computers, vacuum cleaners, toasters, hairdryers – we all have portable appliances in our homes that run off mains electricity. We acquire these items on a promise that they will work, and that they are safe to use. But over time equipment can become damaged, or simply deteriorate through regular use. Wiring may become loose, internal components may malfunction – any of which could render a once safe to use portable appliance as dangerous !
To make sure these items are always safe to use it is worth getting them periodically tested using a Portable Appliance Testing (PAT) service. Many approved NICEIC electrical contractors offer this service.
Types of appliance
Any electrical appliance with a plug on it may be classed as a portable appliance and therefore be eligible for the PAT service. These include:
Movable items that are easily transported around the room (toaster, food mixer etc) and items that are moved as part of their operation (vacuum cleaner, lawnmower etc).
Fixed equipment and appliances that plug directly into the mains. This covers off most kitchen appliances such as washing machine, refrigerator and microwave. Included here are items like televisions and computers.
Handheld devices can also be tested. For example a hairdryer or an electric razor.
Once an appliance has been tested it will be marked as passed. The PAT tester will also supply you with a log or report of items that have passed, and those which have failed. Any failed items will need to be fixed before use again. This can sometimes be a simple matter of opening up the plug and rewiring the item. However, if a more serious problem has been identified then the item will need to be discarded.
Gas
Portable appliance testing is not just confined to electrical appliances. Safety tests can be carried out on gas appliances too. So, your gas fire and gas cooker for example should be inspected periodically to ensure that they are safe to use and comply with existing gas regulations. A CORGI registered engineer will need to perform the safety test, and will issue a safety certificate for items that pass.
Landlords
Portable appliance testing is not a legal directive for electrical items – that is to say that there is no direct obligation on landlords to ensure portable appliances (electrical) supplied to a tenant as part of a rental property are tested on a regular basis. However, current legislation demands that all reasonable care is taken to guarantee a tenant’s safety in rental property – specifically the Consumer Protection Act 1987 and the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974. With this in mind it is strongly advisable that any electrical equipment provided to the tenant with the property be checked annually, both for yours and your tenant’s peace of mind. Should any issues then arise from problematic electrical equipment in rented property, as landlord you will be able to prove that reasonable steps were taken to ensure the tenant’s safety.
Electrical safety in the garden
Safety of Electrical installations in the garden and Sukkah
Many of us have a need, from time to time, to use electrical equipment in the garden. Whether it be plugging in permanent fixtures like Sukkah lights or temporary equipment like a lawnmower so we can keep our grass nice and trim, wielding a hedge trimmer for Schach or to keep our boundaries in order or drilling holes in the Sukkah boards, electricity tends to be the power source we use. But this carries a certain amount of risk: cables can easily be cut by moving blades, while poor quality or poorly maintained electrical connections and exposure to damp or moisture heightens the risk of electrical shock, injury and even death. Before using electricity in the garden we should therefore take appropriate precautions to limit our exposure to these risks.
Residual Current Devices
The simplest and most cost-effective way to protect ourselves when using electrical equipment in the garden is to use a Residual Current Device (RCD) between the mains power point and the electrical equipment that is to be used. If the equipment plugs directly into an indoor socket it should interface with (= sit in between) the RCD, the RCD then being plugged into the mains. If an extension cable is used then it should be the extension lead's plug that interfaces with the RCD at the main power point.
RCDs work by cutting the power to the mains and breaking the circuit in the event that a fault develops with the equipment, or if the cable is cut. It essentially isolates us from the mains power, preventing us coming to any harm. Proper use of an RCD is extremely important. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, and if in doubt use the 'test' button to ensure that the RCD works as it should.
Outside Sockets
RCDs are temporary safety mechanisms. A more permanent solution comes in the shape of outdoor sockets. These are weatherproofed units that may be permanently sited outside. Connections are rubberised and the socket itself is protected from moisture thanks to a springloaded flap. Modern outside sockets now come complete with a ground spike. This allows you to plant the socket anywhere you wish in your garden.
For frequent and/or heavy duty use you may want to consider an external wall-mounted socket cabled from your property. For such an installation a competent person with experience of outside socket work should be employed to install it.
Employ some common sense
Accidents involving electrical equipment in the garden are almost entirely avoidable. We just have to be aware of the dangers and employ some basic common sense. Here are some tips to keep you safe next time you are out in the garden with the lawnmower or hedge trimmer.
Avoid using electrical gardening equipment in the rain
Do not attempt to repair equipment whilst still connected to the power
Do not wash electrical equipment with water
Do not operate electrical equipment without footwear
Winter Precautions
Winter Precautions
December 2008 has started off on a cold note. With some winter forecasts pointing to a colder than normal winter, NOW is the time to take precautionary measures to ensure that you and your property come through the winter unscathed.
Outside the Property
There is much you or your landlord can do to protect the exterior of your property from the ravages of winter. Start by getting up a ladder and clearing out the guttering around the property. Leaves and dirt regularly collect in gutters, blocking downpipes and drainage routes. Should the temperature drop close to freezing the stagnant water will freeze, potentially damaging your guttering and surrounding brickwork.
Be sure to inspect your roof. Loose tiles could be dislodged by strong winter winds that hit through the forthcoming months. If the tiles were to fall a gaping hole into which rainwater could penetrate would remain. The water could seep into the fabric of the building causing extensive water damage. By the same token, any missing tiles found on your inspection should be replaced as soon as possible to prevent further rainwater damage from occurring. Don't delay, lest you might experience first hand Shlomo HaMelech's sage advice: By slothfulness the roof sinketh in; and through idleness of the hands the house leaketh (Koheles 10:18).
Do you have any exposed water pipes entering your property or any shallow buried pipes underground? If the winter weather becomes persistently cold, a penetrating ground frost may take hold. This could freeze the water in exposed piping, blocking water flow and also damaging the pipes themselves, owing to the fact that water expands in volume when frozen (as it does when heated). Any exposed pipes should therefore be insulated with quality outdoor lagging. Shallow buried pipes should either be reburied deeper underground where they are less susceptible to ground frost, or they should be lagged. Depending upon the underground pipe and its function, you may wish to consider doing both.
Inside the Property
When the weather gets cold we need our heat! Your boiler is central to delivering that heat to radiators and to providing you with piping hot water for dishwashing, showers, baths etc. If you have your boiler on an annual service contract you should have little need to worry about. If you don't have an annual service contract in place why not take the sensible option and have your boiler serviced before the winter really takes hold. You don't want your boiler breaking down when the temperature outside is sub-zero and all service companies are on holiday!
In severe winter weather power supplies may be disrupted. It is therefore always advisable to keep plenty of candles, matches and torches to hand. If using candles during a power-cut, always site them on a burn-resistant surface, such as in a candlestick, on a plate or in a metal container. Only light candles in rooms in which you are present. An unattended candle could topple over unobserved and set light to your property.
Finally, do check the lagging insulation in your loft to ensure that it is of sufficient depth. Governement building regulations dictate that recommended depth over the floor of your loft is 270mm. Also check that pipes in the loft are lagged to prevent them freezing during a severe cold spell.
No one can say for sure what this winter will bring. But whatever the weather, by taking these precautions, you'll be safeguarding your property - and your purse - well into 2009.
Gearing up for Climate Change
Gearing up for Climate Change
Climate Change - or as it is currently called Global warming - is the increase in the average temperature of the Earth's near-surface air and oceans in recent decades and its projected continuation. Simply put, when you hear terms like emissions, pollution, carbon dioxide, greenhouse effect or ozone layer - all of these terms, which you may have recently heard about in the news - form part of the global problem called Climate Change.
In the beginning of December 2007, government representatives from 190 nations met on the Indonesian island of Bali. Their (e)mission was to agree a new climate deal to replace the ageing 1997 Kyoto Protocol (named after the town in Japan that hosted the original symposium) a pact that the United States refused to ratify. The Bali conference was hailed a success. Last minute negotiations brought the United States reluctantly onside with a commitment to participate in the Bali Road Map - a framework deal to establish a new climate treaty by 2009.
The message that came out of Bali was clear: Climate change is real and it is happening right now. What's more, the UK will likely be one of the first nations to suffer the consequences of a warming world. An example of what could happen in England: rivers across the country could alter their flow rate, due to the effects of changes in rainfall, temperature and other causes that are directly linked to atmospheric variations.
Property owners in the firing line
Did you experience the Great Storm of 1987, the worst storm to hit England since the Great Storm of 1703 - or perhaps the Burns Day storm in 1990, when one of the strongest storms on record charged over Northwestern Europe? If you did you'll remember the devastation they caused. Both wrought extensive damage across large tracts of the countryside and inner cities. Roofs were torn clean away from tens of thousands of buildings, hundreds of thousands of trees were uprooted - many of which smashed into homes and destroyed vehicles. These storms were catastrophic events, meteorologists at the time claiming them to be once in 250-year events.
But the climate is changing, at least according to scientists. A mass of scientific evidence collected over the last two decades shows, unequivocally, that our world is warming. In a warmer world more energy will exist in our atmosphere. This is expected to give rise to stronger and more frequent windstorms rolling in off the Atlantic across the UK. Scenes reminiscent of 1987 and 1990 could become commonplace, properties in the UK being subject to a higher incidence of storm force winds.
Conditions are expected to be wetter too. Flash floods of the likes seen in Boscastle and Crackington Haven in Cornwall during August 2004 are projected to become a regular occurrence - and there is no guarantee as to where it will hit next. Combine this with the accelerated ice melt in the Arctic leading to more extreme coastal flooding events and the outlook is rather grim. All in all it's bad news for property owners, many of whom could find themselves faced with higher property repair bills and insurance premiums as climate change tightens its grip. The question is, are you at risk?
Assessing risk to property from climate change
Climate change poses a risk to all of us. However, some property owners are more vulnerable than others. Properties located in the north and west of the UK are likely to endure the worst of the strengthening windstorms. Exposed elevated locations will be most at risk from wind damage. But even in the cities, such as Manchester for example, damage to property from high winds may become more of an issue.
With more intense rainfall forecast to drop from the storms that cross the UK, city dwellers everywhere are going to be at a higher risk of flash floods. The problem is that our concrete cities cannot absorb rainfall in the same way as fields and soil are able to do in the countryside. The only way rain can escape is via storm drains - and these struggle to cope even now. With a higher incidence of intense rainfall events predicted there's only one outcome to expect -- more flash flooding.
For London and coastal locations the news gets worse. Rising sea levels mean that dwellings on tidal rivers and close to the coast are at a greater risk of flooding by the sea - especially in storm surge conditions as we saw last month down the East Coast. Sea flooding is a serious issue for property owners, not least because of the effects of saltwater on the property's structure.
What can you do to fight climate change?
If you think that your property is located in a vulnerable area - i.e. one that could easily be flooded, either by river or sea, or be exposed to high winds - what should you do to protect yourself? Well, short of moving to or reinvesting in a less vulnerable location, your options are rather limited. Your best course of action really is to tackle the root cause of climate change - the release of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.
Carbon dioxide (CO2) is the chief greenhouse gas pollutant responsible for causing global warming. Basically, using Gas or Oil-fired Boilers, Petrol powered vehicles or consuming electricity - all contribute to the Greenhouse effect. By changing our lifestyles and activities to reduce the amount of CO2 that we are personally responsible for releasing, either directly or indirectly, into the atmosphere, the greater our impact will be in the fight to stop climate change.
How can this be done in practice? The answer is to use less electricity, petrol and gas! For example, power stations pump massive amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere. By saving energy through better home insulation, switching off lights in rooms that you are not using and changing light bulbs to energy saving ones - or cycling to work once a week - you can save on the amount of CO2 you use.
If we all took up the challenge we could collectively make a very big difference to CO2 output in the UK, and make a real stand against climate change. You will then appreciate and better understand the much uttered term "Carbon Footprint".
Climate Change - or as it is currently called Global warming - is the increase in the average temperature of the Earth's near-surface air and oceans in recent decades and its projected continuation. Simply put, when you hear terms like emissions, pollution, carbon dioxide, greenhouse effect or ozone layer - all of these terms, which you may have recently heard about in the news - form part of the global problem called Climate Change.
In the beginning of December 2007, government representatives from 190 nations met on the Indonesian island of Bali. Their (e)mission was to agree a new climate deal to replace the ageing 1997 Kyoto Protocol (named after the town in Japan that hosted the original symposium) a pact that the United States refused to ratify. The Bali conference was hailed a success. Last minute negotiations brought the United States reluctantly onside with a commitment to participate in the Bali Road Map - a framework deal to establish a new climate treaty by 2009.
The message that came out of Bali was clear: Climate change is real and it is happening right now. What's more, the UK will likely be one of the first nations to suffer the consequences of a warming world. An example of what could happen in England: rivers across the country could alter their flow rate, due to the effects of changes in rainfall, temperature and other causes that are directly linked to atmospheric variations.
Property owners in the firing line
Did you experience the Great Storm of 1987, the worst storm to hit England since the Great Storm of 1703 - or perhaps the Burns Day storm in 1990, when one of the strongest storms on record charged over Northwestern Europe? If you did you'll remember the devastation they caused. Both wrought extensive damage across large tracts of the countryside and inner cities. Roofs were torn clean away from tens of thousands of buildings, hundreds of thousands of trees were uprooted - many of which smashed into homes and destroyed vehicles. These storms were catastrophic events, meteorologists at the time claiming them to be once in 250-year events.
But the climate is changing, at least according to scientists. A mass of scientific evidence collected over the last two decades shows, unequivocally, that our world is warming. In a warmer world more energy will exist in our atmosphere. This is expected to give rise to stronger and more frequent windstorms rolling in off the Atlantic across the UK. Scenes reminiscent of 1987 and 1990 could become commonplace, properties in the UK being subject to a higher incidence of storm force winds.
Conditions are expected to be wetter too. Flash floods of the likes seen in Boscastle and Crackington Haven in Cornwall during August 2004 are projected to become a regular occurrence - and there is no guarantee as to where it will hit next. Combine this with the accelerated ice melt in the Arctic leading to more extreme coastal flooding events and the outlook is rather grim. All in all it's bad news for property owners, many of whom could find themselves faced with higher property repair bills and insurance premiums as climate change tightens its grip. The question is, are you at risk?
Assessing risk to property from climate change
Climate change poses a risk to all of us. However, some property owners are more vulnerable than others. Properties located in the north and west of the UK are likely to endure the worst of the strengthening windstorms. Exposed elevated locations will be most at risk from wind damage. But even in the cities, such as Manchester for example, damage to property from high winds may become more of an issue.
With more intense rainfall forecast to drop from the storms that cross the UK, city dwellers everywhere are going to be at a higher risk of flash floods. The problem is that our concrete cities cannot absorb rainfall in the same way as fields and soil are able to do in the countryside. The only way rain can escape is via storm drains - and these struggle to cope even now. With a higher incidence of intense rainfall events predicted there's only one outcome to expect -- more flash flooding.
For London and coastal locations the news gets worse. Rising sea levels mean that dwellings on tidal rivers and close to the coast are at a greater risk of flooding by the sea - especially in storm surge conditions as we saw last month down the East Coast. Sea flooding is a serious issue for property owners, not least because of the effects of saltwater on the property's structure.
What can you do to fight climate change?
If you think that your property is located in a vulnerable area - i.e. one that could easily be flooded, either by river or sea, or be exposed to high winds - what should you do to protect yourself? Well, short of moving to or reinvesting in a less vulnerable location, your options are rather limited. Your best course of action really is to tackle the root cause of climate change - the release of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.
Carbon dioxide (CO2) is the chief greenhouse gas pollutant responsible for causing global warming. Basically, using Gas or Oil-fired Boilers, Petrol powered vehicles or consuming electricity - all contribute to the Greenhouse effect. By changing our lifestyles and activities to reduce the amount of CO2 that we are personally responsible for releasing, either directly or indirectly, into the atmosphere, the greater our impact will be in the fight to stop climate change.
How can this be done in practice? The answer is to use less electricity, petrol and gas! For example, power stations pump massive amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere. By saving energy through better home insulation, switching off lights in rooms that you are not using and changing light bulbs to energy saving ones - or cycling to work once a week - you can save on the amount of CO2 you use.
If we all took up the challenge we could collectively make a very big difference to CO2 output in the UK, and make a real stand against climate change. You will then appreciate and better understand the much uttered term "Carbon Footprint".
HOME IMPROVEMENTS
HOME IMPROVEMENTS:
A SERIES OF SPECIAL REPORTS FROM YOU AND YOURS
Bricklayer and broadcaster Jeff Howell goes behind the scenes of the building business to investigate the most popular home improvements.
Over the next few weeks Jeff's looking at some of the most common home improvement projects that are undertaken - starting with adding a conservatory. How much are we paying the salesman in commission, and will the new room be as much use as we hoped? Building and DIY expert Jeff Howell investigates.
Listen again to the item
For advice on DIY building projects visit the BBCi DIY Guide
Read other's experiences or send in your own
Cedric Wilkins
It took a year to finally complete our kitchen. The delivery was late as more than half the order had been overlooked. We had to return around half the units due to damage. Our fitter discovered that some items were incompatible - notably the hob unit which was around 8 mm deeper than the work top. Once the initial installation was finished dark stains appeared on all the doors and panels. After much to-ing and fro-ing it was decided this was a manufacturers problem and the company agreed to replace these items. This meant rebuilding much of the kitchen. This took some time not least because a number of the new items were damaged.
Lorna Bourke
I employed a well-known firm of kitchen and bathroom installers to put in a new kitchen, bathroom and home-office. The job was supposed to take two to three months starting on September 2nd 2002 - 11 months later it is still unfinished. The water pipes leaked after I moved back in flooding the flat and ruining the carpets. The gas leaked and was designated "immediate danger" by Transco and I had to employ a Corgi engineer to find the leak (in the new kitchen). Overall, it has been a catalogue of disasters and I am being forced to sue the suppliers and fitters.
Jim Parsons
Kitchens: You & Yours / Radio 4 The most infuriating thing was the lack of continuity when phoning the suppliers help line - normally it was a different (dissinterested) person each time and you never felt that anyone cared. After this letter we got a very non commital phone response with various vague promises that they would investigate the problems we had detailed and an offer of a small goodwill payment (but with no admission of liability). We accepted the cheque but would never use one of these large companies in future - the whole process was very stressful and we felt very poorly treated. House moving is difficult enough without all these extra problems!
Mike Etherington
I employed a company to bulid my conservatory who was recommended by a neighbour who was pleased with the work. Since we were having an identical £20,000 hardwood conservatory nothing could go wrong. Apart from everything! We ended up taking the supplier to court to avoid paying the final payment as he was not competent to put right the damage he had caused. We identified 46 separate problems from doors not meeting to forgetting to seal the join to the house and more. The conservatory is now leaning dangerously, doors don't fit, the work is still shoddy and it will cost even more to put right.
Sarah Wicks
To avoid all the problems you have mentioned, my daughter insisted I move from the old house into a new build house. The dishwasher died completely, blowing the house electrics with it, after nearly 4 years of averaging 45 washes per annum. The fridge lost temperature as the door hinges gave up supporting it during its third year. Weeks of telephoning several numbers and writing several letters have not resulted in any replies from the company. Then yesterday I received fridge door hinges through the post, for £63.99, even though all parts are covered by the guarantee. I am a disabled OAP quite handy with a screwdriver and can see these hinges are not the same as those initially used. It appears to me that everything was designed to only last about three years before they need replacing! The moral being that it is impossible to win either way.
Jane Wray
We had a kitchen installed at the end of January - the electrician is coming round next month to do the 5th lot of remedial work on it. That includes taking out all the electrics originally fitted and re doing them. Fortunatly , we only had to live with the gas leak that was installed for about 5 weeks
sian wynne
We had a large (and expensive) conservatory fitted. Sadly they managed to put the damp proof course in the wrong place - ABOVE the untreated wood supports for the floor. It took 2 years, tears & £1000 in legal fees to get it fixed - and we deliberately paid more to a national company thinking we'd avoid problems.
Richard Wright
KITCHENS: we have just embarked on a new and expensive kitchen from a leading supplier. The rubbish is still on the drive, the kitchen is unfinished, the installers were inept, and the salesman clearly saw us coming - but of course we only found out too late. We are now heading for the courts for misrepresentation and more.
Betty Gale
I have recently had a conservatory built. It took 8 weeks and is leaking, badly fitted and the small brick wall it sits on was built with no footings. The company keep promising to put it right but never turn up. Promised free furniture which will never arrive. All in all not a good choice of companies.
RIchard Pye
WE paid over £8000 for a conservatory in March. It started to leak in May and the conservatory company now refuses to fix it until they can see it actually leaking (as long as this is within their working hours which unfortunately it never is!) Trading Standards have advised us this is totally unacceptable and have advised us to pursue it through the SCC.
Rachel Friedli
KITCHEN INSTALLATIONS I have just had a kitchen completed by one of the big kitchen providers. It only took 6 months to complete. Not bad considering they had quoted me 3-5 days!! I had a bodge kitchen fitter, who has now been sacked. My kitchen was left with a hole under the windowsill (new one, as the old one was ripped out to make way for the kitchen.) I now have a very nifty posting hole!! Don't know what I am supposed to put there but hey, never mind. We had a list of at least 20 things that needed putting right.
Tell us your experience of small extensions
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