Dealing with asbestos on your property

The Health & Safety Executive claim it to be the greatest single cause of work deaths in the UK, and according to the British Medical Journal it kills more than 3,000 people in Britain each year. With a billing like this there’s little doubt that asbestos is something not to be trifled with. Since the introduction of the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2006, the government agrees. Employers who handle the substance in any one of its forms are now required by law to hold a special licence that permits them to work with asbestos.

 

The dangers of asbestos are, of course, nothing new. Blue and brown asbestos were banned from use in the UK during 1985. This was followed sometime later by a ban on the use of white asbestos in 1999. The 2006 regulations continue to enforce these bans, and bring a new level of control to the people who work with asbestos in a professional capacity – plumbers, electricians, demolition contractors and asbestos removal firms among them.

 

With the asbestos bans having been firmly in place for several years now, it might seem peculiar to some that new regulations as recent as last year are needed at all. While it could be viewed in some quarters as health and safety ‘gone mad’, the government view it as an apt precaution. The problem is, and has always been to be honest, that many thousands of properties across Britain still have asbestos in them. These are generally properties built between the 1950s and the early 1980s when the building trade used asbestos extensively in materials ranging from concrete and bricks to bath panels and pipe lagging.

 

Why was asbestos used? The answer is in the material’s unique properties. Asbestos you see, when mixed in with a host material, provides that material with greater rigidity and improved fire resistance. Only in the late 1970s did it emerge that asbestos used in this way could be detrimental to our health.

 

Health impacts of asbestos

Buildings with asbestos in them – so long as the asbestos remains undisturbed – are not a health hazard. The problem comes when people have work done to their homes, or turn their hands to a spot of DIY. Disturbing the material can release asbestos dust and fibres into the air, potentially bringing a whole host of health issues home to roost.

Inhaled asbestos fibres for example lodge in the lungs and produce scarring. Known as asbestosis the scarring – a form of fibrosis - causes the lungs to shrink, making it difficult to breathe. Asbestos exposure also brings about pleural thickening of the lung – a condition that restricts the expansion of the lungs during the breathing process. When combined with asbestosis, sufferers find it almost impossible to breathe normally.

 

But, without a doubt, the most serious side effect of asbestos dust and fibre exposure is cancer. There are two forms – mesothelioma and lung cancer.

 

Mesothelioma begins as a malignant tumour in the pleura membrane that surrounds the lung and is almost always caused by previous exposure to asbestos. Once developed the prognosis is not good. Statistics show that around 75% of people who contract the cancer die within a year. Long-term, very few live on.

 

As for lung cancer, the risk of contracting the disease is greatly heightened by prolonged and heavy exposure to asbestos dust. When combined with smoking the risk becomes phenomenally high. However, for smokers who have been heavily exposed to asbestos but then stop smoking, the risk decreases significantly.

 

Asbestos in your home

 

If you discover asbestos in your home the first rule is not to panic. If it remains undisturbed or is covered by a membrane, such as a non-permeable paint, it won’t be a health hazard. The main problem comes if you sand, drill or saw through it as you risk releasing asbestos dust and fibres into the air that could affect your health. Therefore, avoid attempting to remove and dispose of asbestos yourself. It is much safer to bring in a qualified and trained professional rather than run the risk of exposing yourself and your family to a potentially very hazardous substance.

 

Your best course of action then is to first contact your local authority and request an asbestos inspection. The council inspector will be able to identify if asbestos is present and the risk it poses to you. Once identified the council will advise on how to have the asbestos safely removed from your property. You can then make the arrangements with a specialist contractor, leaving you free to get on with your life.

 

 

 

 

 

HMO Fire Safety Laws

In the last article I touched on fire safety in HMOs -- Houses in Multiple Occupation. These are buildings, such as individual houses, flats and maisonettes, where three or more tenants occupy the building, but in two or more household units within the property. So, for example, a house rented to three unrelated students would be an HMO, as would a larger property that has been split into separate living accommodation and rented out to multiple individuals or families. It should be noted however that properties consisting entirely of self-contained flats are, in general, not classed as HMOs provided that the conversion of the house to flats fully complied with the 1991 Building Regulations. If the flat conversions failed to meet these regulations then HMO status applies -- but only in circumstances where more than one-third of the flats are in use by tenants on short term tenancies.

 

For HMO properties certain laws apply to safeguard the welfare of tenants occupying the premises. These include stringent fire safety laws. So, landlords and tenants, it's time to listen up. It matters not whether you are an experienced landlord with HMO properties or a seasoned HMO tenant, this article is for you and for all the landlords and tenants out there who are new to HMOs and the regulations that apply to them. What is contained in this article could save your life and, quite conceivably from the landlord's point of view, spare you from serving a prison sentence!

 

You and the law

On October 1, 2006 new fire safety laws came into force. For HMOs it requires that a fire risk assessment of the building be conducted, and that adequate provisions are made for fire detection, fire fighting and escaping the fire. These elements are outlined below.

 

Fire risk assessment:

Landlords are responsible for conducting regular fire risk assessments in their HMO. The assessments can be performed by the landlord themselves, or by a responsible and competent person operating on behalf of the landlord. No official fire safety certificate is required from the assessment -- it is purely an exercise in identifying and managing risks.

 

Government guidelines suggest that fire risk assessments be approached in five steps…

Step #1 - Identify fire hazards. This requires the assessor to pinpoint sources of ignition, fuel and oxygen - the three components needed for a fire to start.

Step #2 - Identify the people at risk. This includes those living in the accommodation as well as neighbours who may be affected by a fire at the property.

Step #3 - Evaluate, Reduce, Remove and Protect from risk. Evaluate the risk and take action to lower the risk based on your findings.

Step #4 - Record, Plan, Inform, Instruct and Train. Keep a record of your fire assessments and the actions that you take as a result. Put an emergency plan in place so people know what to do in the event of a fire.

Step #5 - Review. Keep your fire assessments under constant review. Plan regular inspections and update your actions and emergency planning to take into account changes in the property and in the fire safety laws.

 

For further details on how to conduct a fire assessment do go and speak to your local council or fire service.

 

Fire detection and warning:

The new fire safety laws require that you deploy adequate fire detection and warning systems in HMOs. In some instances, battery operated smoke detectors won't cut it. You may instead find that you need an automatic detection and warning system hard-wired into the building, and which is operated from a central control panel. If you are in doubt as to which type of detection system best suits your HMO you should consult your local council or fire safety officer.

 

Fire fighting equipment:

If a fire is detected HMO tenants need adequate equipment available to tackle the blaze. Serviced and operational portable fire extinguishers must be located on each floor of the property, and in sufficient number. Hose reels and sprinkler systems may also be considered in larger HMO premises, as should access to the building and its floors by the fire brigade. Other installations needed for good fire control are self-closing fireproof doors that can withstand up to 30 minutes of heat.

 

Fire escapes:

The landlord is responsible for the provision of internal and/or external fire escape routes in the HMO. This could be one or more set of external stairs, internal stairs, corridors or walkways. All escape routes identified as such will need to be fireproofed. The landlord is also responsible for providing adequate signage on where the escape routes and fire exits are located, and how they are to be reached in the event of a fire.

 

For HMO tenants

If you are a tenant residing in an HMO you should make it your responsibility to ensure that your landlord complies with current fire safety laws. If you think that your landlord is not fulfilling their obligations you should first speak, or better write, to your landlord to inform him/her of your concerns. Ask for a response and for a commitment to addressing the issues raised. If no positive action is forthcoming do contact your local council or fire service. They will inspect the property, and in circumstances where
there is non-compliance with fire safety laws, they can take steps to remedy the situation. In some circumstances the council may bring prosecution proceedings against the landlord.

Safety Tips for tenants

• Leave a door key accessible at a low level - where smoke will not initially reach - or in the front door, and make sure all occupants are aware of its location. This will make it easier to escape the building in the event of a fire.

• Where old sash windows were replaced with double glazing and only the top part can be opened it is a good idea to leave a hammer close by so that the glazing can be broken and an escape made.

Fire Office Contacts

London: The London Fire Brigade is run by the London Fire and Emergency Planning Authority (LFEPA). Each London borough and the City of London has its own fire safety centre. To contact your local centre telephone LFEPA on 020 7587 2000.

Manchester: The Greater Manchester Fire and Rescue Service covers Bury, Manchester, Salford and Stockport. For details of your local fire safety office you can contact the main switchboard on 0161 736 5866.

 

Most importantly, be sure to have your Mezuzos checked at least twice in seven years, after all it's your safety which is at stake.

 

Damp Dangers

Mould around windowsills, which is sometimes caused by condensation, and on walls and ceilings is a familiar sight to homeowners up and down the country. Like a virus this black-grey and green mass seems to spread into our rooms, resisting our increasingly desperate attempts to shift it with the latest cleaning products that promise much but deliver little. Without a doubt, it is an eyesore - and an embarrassment when you've invited guests around to stay. But did you know that mould is also a hazard to your health and to the health of those who you invite into your home?

 

Mould health hazards

 

Indoor moulds are fungi that develop in damp / moist areas of the home. When conditions are right for mould growth (but wrong for us) the mould releases high levels of spores into the air in its efforts to reproduce. These spores, which are invisible to the eye and are often odourless, can cause respiratory illnesses in people who are exposed to them.

 

Most at risk are allergy sufferers. When mould spores are breathed in they irritate and inflame the airways. Allergic rhinitis, bronchitis and sneezing are common ailments that result from exposure. Children with soft lung "linings" and asthma sufferers too may find their breathing compromised by mould spores - a situation that could bring about a sudden asthma attack.

 

But being an effective allergen is not the only way mould can affect our health. When the environment is right, some types of mould, such as stachybotrys - a common indoor mould that thrives in damp spots and takes on a black slimy appearance - excrete gaseous compounds as part of their life cycle. Known as mycotoxins these odourless releases are poisonous and will cause harm, especially to people living with them 24/7. If the level of mycotoxins goes unchecked long-term exposure could end up being lethal.

 

Tell-tale signs

Recognising the signs of mould growth is the first step on the road to solving your mould problem. Around windowsills look out for the appearance of dark spots and patches growing in, on or under the sealant around the frame. Look too for furry mould growth on seals that edge the window glass. Peeling paint on walls and ceilings is a sure sign of damp - the precursor to mould growth. If your wallpaper becomes discoloured and begins to peel check that too for dampness. Detecting damp conditions that aid mould growth on floors can be difficult if your floors are carpeted. Look carefully at the condition of the carpet and check for moss, lichen and algae growths. For wooden floors the same applies. Woodworm damage too is a sign that you could have a damp problem.

Solving the problem

 

If you have a mould problem in your home you'll need to urgently identify the source of the mould. For mould to grow it needs a water source. This could be something as simple as water running down brickwork from a leaking gutter, or it could be something more serious such as rising damp. For leaks emanating from your roof consider enlisting the services of a roofing specialist. They can help you track down even the smallest of breaches in your roof that could be letting rainwater seep in. If the problem is on the ground level you may want to bring in a specialist damp coursing company to evaluate if there is an issue with your damp proofing. Should they identify this as the root of your problem they will use injection equipment to put in place a new damp proof barrier under your home. Reputable companies will provide a long-term guarantee for their work.

Whatever the cause, once you've identified it, you can take steps to remedy the situation, cutting off the mould's moisture supply.

 

Next, remove the mould growth that you have in your home. Use a fungicidal wash to do this. The most reliable washes are those that carry Health & Safety Executive approval. Follow the product's instructions and then redecorate the areas affected with a fungicidal paint or polystyrene-backed wallpaper to prevent mould reappearing.

 

Finally, take steps to better ventilate your property. Condensation, even though you may find it not to be the primary cause of your mould problem, certainly does not help your situation. If condensation is bad it could reawaken mould growth in those problem areas or it could introduce mould to new areas of your living space.

 

Dehumidifiers are an excellent way of controlling indoor moisture. They are frequently used as a way to reduce incidences of condensation. You should also think about your property's insulation. The less the air temperature in your home swings around, the better protected you'll be from any recurrence of a mouldy nightmare!

 

Burglars and Holiday - Part II

It is this time of the year again when the cold spell sets in and you are planning a well deserved Winter break. Incidentally, this is also the period of the sales season, when public spending soars through the annual charts - but we shouldn't forget that some people will want to join the frenzy and will do anything to lay their hands on some easy money.
Burglars will strike when they find an easy target or an easy time: unattended places or unattentive people. Statistically many burglaries happen to occupied houses when people sleep the tightest between the hours of 2:00AM to 5:00AM.
With this in mind, it would be prudent to put some safeguards in place, in addition to our previous Home Security article, published prior to the Summer holiday

The Basics:
Always keep the door locked, even when you are in the house; just because you are indoors does not mean someone would not come in anyway.
If your front door doesn't have glass, you can fit a spy-hole in the front and back door. Or get into the habit of looking through a window near the door to see who is calling.
Train children not to open the door to strangers at any time, even with when using CCTV or similar entry phones.
Be sure, at night as well as daytime, that yard gates and other such locations are closed; many burglars prefer a place where very easy access is provided-opening and closing a gate takes time, attracts attention, makes noise, etc.

When bringing in the shopping from your car, or working in the back yard, don't leave the front door unlocked. Or if running next door for a minute, don't leave the house open and doors unlocked . . . many thefts and burglaries occur this way without the owner or renter knowing it.

Lighting
An outside light over the door will help you see a caller in the dark. Install one with a built-in timer or with a daylight sensor.

Locks
Do not use the spring-snap locks; they are opened very easily and practically without any sound.
Use chain locks as an added precaution on all entries.
Remember: it does little good to have good locks on the front door and poor locks elsewhere.

Doorstep Crooks or genuine Tradesmen?
Some criminals won't go to the trouble of breaking into your home if they can just knock and be invited in. You've probably had many authentic callers at your front door and not one trickster – but be careful. Bogus callers come in all shapes and sizes.
When answering the door, ask to see proper identification; if the person is a salesman, solicitor, repairman or utility company representative, he or she will have proper identification. If you agree to have someone visit your home and you will not be home when they call, be sure to leave a note for the family members to confirm the details.
Water board officials never need to come into your home to test water pressure or repair leaks - even in emergencies. If they do need to get in they send you a letter first.
Gas and electricity meter readers want you to check their identity before you let them in. If in doubt, ring up and check; bona fide callers don't mind this in the least. Keep the phone numbers handy.
You could always join the password scheme so the meter reader gives you an arranged password when they call.
Report too many "wrong number" calls you receive from telephone callers to the police and telephone company; it could be a burglar - with a very convincing voice - trying to determine if anyone is at home.
Never allow anyone to talk you into "buying" back something stolen from your home. Report such an offer to police promptly and follow their instructions on the matter.

Consult your home content insurance provider for further guidance.

Remember...
Don't let people in until you know who they are
Keep the door locked while you check their story
If you let someone in, stay with them at all times
Never part with money or other things, whatever they say
If suspicious - ring the police
Check identity cards thoroughly
Don't let callers put pressure on you to let them in; and
If in doubt - Keep Them Out!
*** Last and most importantly: Use COMMON SENSE - if you are suspicious, don't take chances! ***
The best way to have a safe home is to have your mezuzas checked twice every seven years"

Burglars and Holiday - Part I

No holiday from Ganovim  

Before you set off on vacation it would be prudent to make some very simple arrangements as a precaution against burglaries, says Menasche Scharf  

 

It is this time of the year again when you will be making plans to pack your bags and go on holiday. With no one to look after your home in your absence, it would be prudent to make some very simple arrangements as a precaution against burglaries.   The recent spate of robberies in and around North and North West London was well publicized, but many others take place without ever being reported, so this is even more reason to be vigilant. 

Be sure, that yard gates and other such locations are closed; many burglars prefer a place where very easy access is provided-opening and closing a gate takes time, attracts attention, makes noise, and the like.
Don't leave a note saying when you will return and make sure you close the garage door when leaving (lock it too).
Padlock your garage (it is a good entry point for burglars).
Do not leave ladders outside the house; they are perfect devices for entry.
Mark expensive clothing and furs with indelible ink, showing your driver's license number or some other identifiable mark.
Lighting
Outside: light up the side of the house, back and front and garage area with nightlights; few homes with such lighting are ever "hit".
Get an outdoor light with a sensor that comes on when someone's around.
Inside: leave at least one light on (plus a bathroom light); do not pull the shades or curtains when not at home.
You can get timers for your lamps and ceiling lights. Don't just light up the hall. You can light up the landing, bathroom, bedroom and living room too. If you vary the times each light comes on, you give the impression that you're in.
Locks: Do not buy any cheap locks - they are hardly worth the risk.
Use dead-bolt locks (especially the ones that require a key); or use sliding barrel locks; use crossbars and hasp locks on garage, cellar and other such doors.
Check your door hinges . . . if the pins are on the outside, change them to the inside (or to non-removable ones) to prevent a burglar from removing them to open the door and get in.
Make sure locks are away from windows (to prevent the window from being smashed and the burglar reaching in to unlock it).
Don't put your name or address on the key case you carry; if lost or stolen, change locks regardless of whether you had your name or address inside the case.
Basement/Cellar: Windows are many times left open and are an easy place to enter a home or apartment building. Close and lock them at all times!
Doorway: make sure the door to any other part of the apartment building or to the basement, garage or fire escape is adequately locked just as solidly and securely as the front door.
Remember: it does little good to have good locks on the front door and poor locks elsewhere.
Walls and Fences: High fences are hard to climb, but they give a burglar cover once he's over. Keep them low, if you can. The best fences have a trellis on top – it makes them harder to climb.
Keep the shrubbery trimmed away from windows and keep it trimmed to a low height; they are excellent places for someone to hide and not be seen when burglarizing.
Sound:You can use a timer for a CD or cassette player. Choosing a talking record (rather than a music one) is a good idea.
Curtains: Get a trusted neighbour to open and close your curtains if you're away.
Remember... If suspicious - ring the police
*** Last and most importantly: Use COMMON SENSE - if you are suspicious, don't take chances! ***

(Some of the following tips come from the Haringey People Magazine, 07/2007 and from an Advice Resource of Senator Vincent J. ‎Fumo’s office, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.)

Date: 18/07/2007

Top tips on using Fire Extinguishing Equipment in your Home

Encountering a fire in your own home is a frightening experience. So many thoughts are likely to go through your mind on seeing smoke and flames invading your living space - but, on discovering the fire, you must act quickly and calmly for your own safety and for the safety of others in your property. Within seconds you'll need to assess the severity of the fire. How large is it? Can it be tackled safely? Is it in a dangerous location? Could it spread quickly or cause an explosion? Has it already damaged the building structure? These are your key questions - questions that will help you decide on a course of action.

 

If the fire is advanced or has the potential to spiral out of control your first priority is to alert others in the property and evacuate. When everyone is at a safe distance you should dial 999 and ask for the fire brigade. However, if the fire is small and caught early on then you may decide that you can extinguish it yourself using your own fire extinguishing equipment.

 

Fire Extinguisher Types

There are three types of fire extinguisher suitable for use at home. These are…

• 
  

  Powder extinguishers

  
  


• 
  

  Foam extinguishers

  
  


• 
  

  Water extinguishers

  
  

 

Two types of powder extinguisher are available on the market. These are standard powders and multi-purpose 'dry' powders. For home use the multi-purpose powder is recommended, as this tends to be more effective in 'knocking down' flames than standard powders, especially when the fire is burning solids. Standard powders are more effective on liquid-based fires.

 

Foam extinguishers too work well in the home. Just like the powder extinguishers there are two types of foam extinguisher - a standard foam extinguisher and an aqueous film forming foam (AFFF) extinguisher. Only the AFFF extinguisher is suitable for our purposes as it can be used to stop all but electrical and chip pan fires.

 

Water extinguishers are probably the least useful in a house fire. Their function is to cool the burning material, but their usage is severely restricted. At best they can only extinguish burning solids like wood and paper.

 

How to use a fire extinguisher safely

Fire extinguishers are very easy to use. For most types of extinguisher it is simply a matter of unclipping the hose, removing the pin from the handle and aiming the jet at the appropriate part of the fire. All extinguishers are labelled with instructions on how to use them. As a matter of course you should get familiar with those instructions so in the event that you need to use your extinguisher you can do so with confidence.

 

When using powder extinguishers you'll knock down the flames quicker if you aim the jet of powder at the base of the fire and sweep the jet from side-to-side. It should be noted though that powder extinguishers do little to cool the burning object(s). The fire that you have put out could therefore reignite. Great care and vigilance is needed then when tackling fires with this type of product.

 

Water extinguishers and foam extinguishers are used in much the same way as powder extinguishers for solid burning fires. But where the fire material is a liquid a foam extinguisher should be dispensed against a vertical surface, such as a wall, above the fire base. This way the burning liquid is not spread from its original area by the powerful jet or spray dispenser.

 

Chip pan fires

None of the fire extinguishers mentioned cope at all well with chip pan fires. The main problem encountered is that burning fat and oil is too easily spread around the kitchen by the extinguisher, either by the strength of the jet or by the volume of material it adds to the pan, which then causes the burning liquid to overflow. Water extinguishers can even cause the oil and fat in the pan to explode!

 

The solution for a chip pan fire then is NOT to use a fire extinguisher. Instead, a fire blanket should be draped over the flames. This separates the burning material from its air supply, killing the fire.

Ready for action?

Regardless of the type of fire extinguishing equipment in your possession, it will only be of any use to you if you can get to it easily in an emergency. Therefore, don't store fire extinguishers and fire blankets in a back room somewhere or in the understairs cupboard. Instead make the equipment readily available for use in a commonly used area of your home, such as in your hallway, or for a fire blanket, in the kitchen.

 

For fire extinguishers do remember too that you or a member of your family may need to carry the equipment to a different part of the house to tackle a blaze. Extinguishers should therefore be of a manageable size and easily portable.

 

Finally, do make a point of having all fire extinguishers in your possession serviced once each year or as per the manufacturer's instructions. It'll ensure that they are in full working order and that they'll be ready to do the job should you need to use them on a fire in your home.

Advice for Landlords

If you rent out your home or a residential investment property you have a legal responsibility to ensure t
he safety of your tenants. Part of your remit is to ensure that appropriate fire extinguishing equipment is available to the tenant, is fully serviced and is in good working order. If the equipment is absent, damaged or non-functional the tenant may have the legal right to prosecute you. It therefore pays to take your responsibilities seriously. Further advice can be sought from your local council.

If you own a House in Multiple Occupation (HMO) you'll have extra responsibilities with regards to fire safety. This includes the installation of an adequate fire alarm system and the provision of firefighting equipment on each floor of the property, and in appropriate quantities for the number of residents in the property. Self-closing fire doors must also be fitted. The landlord is responsible too for setting up and maintaining fire escape exits and routes. For furnished rental properties all furniture supplied must be approved as fire resistant.

For more advice on how to comply with fire safety laws in an HMO do contact your local council authority. The council's fire officer will be more than willing to help you assess your fire risk and to point you in the right direction on how to fulfil your fire safety obligations to protect both you and your tenants.

Waking up to the Threat of Terrorism

Six years ago this September the world changed. The tragedy of ‘9/11’ and what followed delivered a new fear of terrorism into the lives of millions. It brought global security issues into our backyards, and ever since there has been a collective anxiety about what could happen next.

 

Today, the threat of terrorism on UK soil remains undimmed. Only last November MI5 announced that it was aware of 30 terror plots that could threaten UK security. They also made it clear that, overall, the threat of terrorism in the UK was “growing” – a situation that is already putting pressure on insurance companies to increase their household insurance premiums.

 

A threat to our homes

The threat of terrorism is just one of several factors that influence the cost of buildings and contents insurance. Increased risk of flooding, a higher burglary rate and a higher rate of insurance claims are up there in the mix, and combine with the terrorist threat to push up our premiums.

 

Buildings insurance is, understandably, one of the policies hardest hit. Our homes and places of work are often first to suffer when a major insurance event like a windstorm or fire strikes. The same can be said for the effects of terrorist activity.

 

Acts of terrorism are always going to be tough to deal with for a number of reasons. Our own safety and the safety of others is of course paramount in these situations. Concern for the safety of our properties comes next. Should our homes be damaged as a result of terrorist activity, with the right insurance cover in place we can at least rest assured that the costs of repairing or rebuilding our properties are not going to cripple us financially. It does however beg the question as to what is the 'right' level of insurance cover.

 

Insurance cover for terrorist activity

UK building insurance policies, in most instances, provide financial protection against an act of terrorism that damages residential property. Specifically, residential building insurance policies are designed to pay out on claims for damage sustained by fire, explosion or impact, regardless of whether the cause was accidental or through a deliberate malicious act. An act of terrorism falls into this latter category.

 

Consequential costs are normally covered too. So if you needed to stay in alternative accommodation while your property was being repaired your insurance policy could foot the bill for up to 20% of the sum insured.

 

Having said this, it is highly recommended that householders read their policies thoroughly to ensure that no exclusions are cited in connection with damage caused by terrorist acts. It must also be noted that, at this time, the UK insurance industry DOES NOT legislate for contamination caused by terrorist activity. If contamination is the only issue you won't have cover for consequential costs either.

 

Do you live in a block of flats?

Building insurance for some flats in the UK may be classed as commercial property insurance. If this is the case, damage to property caused by terrorism is covered in a separate 'top-up' policy available on the market. You will find when taking up this option that contamination cover is offered. This will cover the cost of damage, clear up and of alternative accommodation should your flat be affected by biological, chemical or radiological contamination as a result of terrorist activity. It is certainly a step up from your standard residential policy and provides a level of financial protection that is as comprehensive as you could reasonably hope to wish for as far as your property is concerned.

 

Is it time you examined your buildings insurance policy again?