Gas Safety for Landlords and Homeowners

Millions of households across Britain rely on natural gas for heating and cooking. It is a fuel that is often perceived as a cheap alternative to electricity; some even prefer to use it instead of electricity. But for all the convenience it brings, we should remember that gas has a deadly side to it. Not only can it bring about carbon monoxide poisoning as a result of gas appliances not burning their fuel efficiently, but a build up of gas can also cause an explosion due to its high level of flammability. Great care must therefore be taken in installing and maintaining gas appliances, and also in their use.

 

Gas in the home

 

The Health and Safety Executive recommend that domestic gas appliances in the home be checked for their continued safety once every 12 months. Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, only Council of Register Gas Installers (CORGI) engineers are allowed to service and maintain gas appliances. In fact it is now illegal for an unqualified person to interfere with the gas supply into a property, or work on or install a gas appliance. Anyone installing a gas cooker for example must be CORGI-Registered. Homeowners with knowledge of gas appliance installations could disconnect and/or reconnect bayonet fittings if they wanted to - for the latest rules governing this please refer to the 1998 Regulations and updates provided by the Health and Safety Executive. But the law states that a CORGI-Registered engineer MUST be the person who connects the hose / appliance to the gas supply.

 

Gas in rented property

 

Renting out property in the UK requires that landlords adhere to a mass of laws to ensure the safety of their tenants. Among them is the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998. Under this umbrella of legislation landlords must:

 

• 
  

  Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for installation of new gas appliances, pipe work and flues -- the flues being the pipes and vents that remove burnt gas from appliances and out of the house.

  
  

 

• 
  

  Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for maintenance of gas appliances, pipe work and flues (as above).

  
  

 

• 
  

  Arrange for annual gas safety checks at the rented property every 12 months. Checks are to be performed by a CORGI-Registered engineer. If gas installations are passed as safe the engineer will issue a Gas Safety Certificate. Should repair work be necessary, the landlord MUST (by law) enlist the services of a CORGI-Registered engineer to carry out the repair work.

  
  

 

• 
  

  Keep records of safety checks for a minimum of two years.

  
  

 

• 
  

  Provide a copy of the Gas Safety Certificate to existing tenants in the property within 28 days of issue by the engineer. For new tenants a copy of the current Gas Safety Certificate must be supplied at the beginning of the tenancy.

  
  

 

For landlords the requirements may seem like a lot of red tape, and just a further expense in running a rental property. However, the Regulations are there for a reason -- to save lives.

 

The importance of gas safety checks

In September 2005 52-year old Charles Cook from the Middleton area of Greater Manchester suffered serious burns after a gas explosion at his home in the early hours of the morning. The blast, thought to have been caused by a gas leak, destroyed the property and damaged neighbouring houses. Mr Cook was taken to hospital and spent time in intensive care to recover from the ordeal. Sadly, Mr Cook's experience is repeated all too often in homes around the country where regular safety checks on gas appliances have been absent. In some cases the blasts are fatal resulting in a tragic loss of life from situations that might have been avoided had safety checks been implemented.

 

What to do if you smell gas

 

While gas safety checks are designed to keep you safe long-term, there is still the chance that a gas appliance might malfunction, or that a gas leak develops in the pipe work between annual safety checks. If you smell gas, this is what you need to do:

 

1. 
   

   Call the National Grid's Gas Emergency number immediately. It is a freephone number -- 0800 111 999

   
   


2. 
   

   Open all doors and windows to help gas escape. DO NOT use light switches or handle a naked flame. Both could ignite the gas.

   
   


3. 
   

   Shut off the gas supply. This is done at the meter cupboard by operating the shut-off valve. For your peace of mind and for your safety it is a good idea to locate and practice operating the shut off valve. By doing so you'll have practical experience to call on in the event of a real life gas emergency.

   
   

Information about CORGI

CORGI started life as a voluntary organisation in 1970 following a gas cooker explosion in a block of flats in London that caused part of the building to collapse. Some 4,000 gas operatives joined the scheme initially, and by 1991 it became a statutory requirement for anyone working with gas to gain CORGI registration. Today CORGI has some 110,000 engineers operating in the UK. Their work is regulated in the field by CORGI inspectors, each CORGI engineer being required to prove their competence with gas once every five years.

 

 

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Gearing up for Climate Change

Climate Change - or as it is currently called Global warming - is the increase in the average temperature of the Earth's near-surface air and oceans in recent decades and its projected continuation. Simply put, when you hear terms like emissions, pollution, carbon dioxide, greenhouse effect or ozone layer - all of these terms, which you may have recently heard about in the news - form part of the global problem called Climate Change.

In the beginning of December 2007, government representatives from 190 nations met on the Indonesian island of Bali. Their (e)mission was to agree a new climate deal to replace the ageing 1997 Kyoto Protocol (named after the town in Japan that hosted the original symposium) a pact that the United States refused to ratify. The Bali conference was hailed a success. Last minute negotiations brought the United States reluctantly onside with a commitment to participate in the Bali Road Map - a framework deal to establish a new climate treaty by 2009.

The message that came out of Bali was clear: Climate change is real and it is happening right now. What's more, the UK will likely be one of the first nations to suffer the consequences of a warming world. An example of what could happen in England: rivers across the country could alter their flow rate, due to the effects of changes in rainfall, temperature and other causes that are directly linked to atmospheric variations.

Property owners in the firing line
Did you experience the Great Storm of 1987, the worst storm to hit England since the Great Storm of 1703 - or perhaps the Burns Day storm in 1990, when one of the strongest storms on record charged over Northwestern Europe? If you did you'll remember the devastation they caused. Both wrought extensive damage across large tracts of the countryside and inner cities. Roofs were torn clean away from tens of thousands of buildings, hundreds of thousands of trees were uprooted - many of which smashed into homes and destroyed vehicles. These storms were catastrophic events, meteorologists at the time claiming them to be once in 250-year events.

But the climate is changing, at least according to scientists. A mass of scientific evidence collected over the last two decades shows, unequivocally, that our world is warming. In a warmer world more energy will exist in our atmosphere. This is expected to give rise to stronger and more frequent windstorms rolling in off the Atlantic across the UK. Scenes reminiscent of 1987 and 1990 could become commonplace, properties in the UK being subject to a higher incidence of storm force winds.

Conditions are expected to be wetter too. Flash floods of the likes seen in Boscastle and Crackington Haven in Cornwall during August 2004 are projected to become a regular occurrence - and there is no guarantee as to where it will hit next. Combine this with the accelerated ice melt in the Arctic leading to more extreme coastal flooding events and the outlook is rather grim. All in all it's bad news for property owners, many of whom could find themselves faced with higher property repair bills and insurance premiums as climate change tightens its grip. The question is, are you at risk?

Assessing risk to property from climate change
Climate change poses a risk to all of us. However, some property owners are more vulnerable than others. Properties located in the north and west of the UK are likely to endure the worst of the strengthening windstorms. Exposed elevated locations will be most at risk from wind damage. But even in the cities, such as Manchester for example, damage to property from high winds may become more of an issue.

With more intense rainfall forecast to drop from the storms that cross the UK, city dwellers everywhere are going to be at a higher risk of flash floods. The problem is that our concrete cities cannot absorb rainfall in the same way as fields and soil are able to do in the countryside. The only way rain can escape is via storm drains - and these struggle to cope even now. With a higher incidence of intense rainfall events predicted there's only one outcome to expect -- more flash flooding.

For London and coastal locations the news gets worse. Rising sea levels mean that dwellings on tidal rivers and close to the coast are at a greater risk of flooding by the sea - especially in storm surge conditions as we saw last month down the East Coast. Sea flooding is a serious issue for property owners, not least because of the effects of saltwater on the property's structure.

What can you do to fight climate change?
If you think that your property is located in a vulnerable area - i.e. one that could easily be flooded, either by river or sea, or be exposed to high winds - what should you do to protect yourself? Well, short of moving to or reinvesting in a less vulnerable location, your options are rather limited. Your best course of action really is to tackle the root cause of climate change - the release of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) is the chief greenhouse gas pollutant responsible for causing global warming. Basically, using Gas or Oil-fired Boilers, Petrol powered vehicles or consuming electricity - all contribute to the Greenhouse effect. By changing our lifestyles and activities to reduce the amount of CO2 that we are personally responsible for releasing, either directly or indirectly, into the atmosphere, the greater our impact will be in the fight to stop climate change.

How can this be done in practice? The answer is to use less electricity, petrol and gas! For example, power stations pump massive amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere. By saving energy through better home insulation, switching off lights in rooms that you are not using and changing light bulbs to energy saving ones - or cycling to work once a week - you can save on the amount of CO2 you use.

If we all took up the challenge we could collectively make a very big difference to CO2 output in the UK, and make a real stand against climate change. You will then appreciate and better understand the much uttered term "Carbon Footprint".

A NICEIC Inspection saves lives

It is very easy to take electricity for granted. For many of us, the invisible force that lights our homes, helps us cook our meals and powers our computers and home appliances is only ever noticed when it is not there. A power outage, for example, underlines the true impact that electricity has on our lives. The same could be said of electrical hazards -- it is often not until we hear or read about the dangers of electricity, or experience for ourselves an electric shock, burn or even a fire caused by faulty electrical equipment or wiring, that we become appreciative of just how harmful electricity can be.

Faulty wiring kills

In Britain around 10 people die each year and approximately 750 are injured, some badly so, when they come into contact with faulty wiring in the home. Newspaper archives reveal their stories. Some have suffered severe burns; others have had limbs removed to save their lives - and these are the lucky ones. Baroness Tonge, former MP for Richmond Park in London, lost her daughter, Mary Wherry, when she was electrocuted by a metal plate rack fixed to the wall. The rack was in contact with unsafe wiring in the wall, rendering the rack live. Electricity really does not discriminate.

First Aid

 

Should you be first on the scene to someone who has received an electric shock, great care must be taken in administering first aid. If the injured person is still in contact with the electric current they could be 'live', and could pass that current through to you if you touch them. Your priority then is to make the situation as safe as possible before helping the victim.

 

First, if it is safe to do so, turn off the power at the mains. Next, separate the injured person from the faulty appliance using a non-conductive item, such as a wooden broom handle. This is important as even in situations where the power is off there could be enough residual current in the injured person's body to shock you.

 

Once you are confident that there is no further danger to you, check the victim for life signs and call for an ambulance. If the victim is not breathing, start resuscitation. Should the person be conscious keep them calm and attend to injuries where possible. For burns, look to cool them with water -- NEVER use ointments or oils on the burns. Stay at the scene with the victim until the ambulance crew arrive and explain to them what happened. The ambulance crew will do the rest, whilst you should then start praying for the injured.

 

Preventative measures

 

Electric shocks arising from faulty equipment and wiring are largely preventable. To reduce the risk in your home all you need do is schedule an inspection of your electrical installations by a NICEIC registered electrician. The electrician will inspect all electrical fittings and circuit wiring in your property to ensure it is safe. They will produce a report, known as a "Periodic Inspection Report for an Electrical Installation" or NICEIC Certificate in short, which will detail the results of their findings. If an electrical installation is found to be unsafe the electrician will notify you of the problem and provide you with an estimate to correct the fault.

 

For fault correction (and new electrical work) in your property you are now required by law to use a competent person or firm approved by the government under Part-P of the Buildings Regulations. By opting to use a suitably qualified contractor who is registered with the NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting) you'll comply with these requirements. It'll afford you peace of mind too -- NICEIC registered electricians guarantee that their work meets approved industry standards and they'll provide you with up to a six-year - and in case of new-build, up to a ten year - warranty as well. What more could you ask for?

 

NICEIC inspections are available to homeowners and landlords alike. However, whereas homeowners can decide for themselves whether or not to check their electrical installations, landlords have a duty to ensure the safety of their tenants, and so must carry out periodic checks. This is normally done whenever there is a change of tenant, the reason being that the departing tenant may have altered, installed or damaged electrical installations without notifying the landlord, or even worse, commissioned unqualified workers to carry out those alterations. Periodic NICEIC inspections help landlords comply with the law here, keeping tenants safe from potentially dangerous electrics that might be present in the property.

 

 

 

Dealing with asbestos on your property

The Health & Safety Executive claim it to be the greatest single cause of work deaths in the UK, and according to the British Medical Journal it kills more than 3,000 people in Britain each year. With a billing like this there’s little doubt that asbestos is something not to be trifled with. Since the introduction of the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2006, the government agrees. Employers who handle the substance in any one of its forms are now required by law to hold a special licence that permits them to work with asbestos.

 

The dangers of asbestos are, of course, nothing new. Blue and brown asbestos were banned from use in the UK during 1985. This was followed sometime later by a ban on the use of white asbestos in 1999. The 2006 regulations continue to enforce these bans, and bring a new level of control to the people who work with asbestos in a professional capacity – plumbers, electricians, demolition contractors and asbestos removal firms among them.

 

With the asbestos bans having been firmly in place for several years now, it might seem peculiar to some that new regulations as recent as last year are needed at all. While it could be viewed in some quarters as health and safety ‘gone mad’, the government view it as an apt precaution. The problem is, and has always been to be honest, that many thousands of properties across Britain still have asbestos in them. These are generally properties built between the 1950s and the early 1980s when the building trade used asbestos extensively in materials ranging from concrete and bricks to bath panels and pipe lagging.

 

Why was asbestos used? The answer is in the material’s unique properties. Asbestos you see, when mixed in with a host material, provides that material with greater rigidity and improved fire resistance. Only in the late 1970s did it emerge that asbestos used in this way could be detrimental to our health.

 

Health impacts of asbestos

Buildings with asbestos in them – so long as the asbestos remains undisturbed – are not a health hazard. The problem comes when people have work done to their homes, or turn their hands to a spot of DIY. Disturbing the material can release asbestos dust and fibres into the air, potentially bringing a whole host of health issues home to roost.

Inhaled asbestos fibres for example lodge in the lungs and produce scarring. Known as asbestosis the scarring – a form of fibrosis - causes the lungs to shrink, making it difficult to breathe. Asbestos exposure also brings about pleural thickening of the lung – a condition that restricts the expansion of the lungs during the breathing process. When combined with asbestosis, sufferers find it almost impossible to breathe normally.

 

But, without a doubt, the most serious side effect of asbestos dust and fibre exposure is cancer. There are two forms – mesothelioma and lung cancer.

 

Mesothelioma begins as a malignant tumour in the pleura membrane that surrounds the lung and is almost always caused by previous exposure to asbestos. Once developed the prognosis is not good. Statistics show that around 75% of people who contract the cancer die within a year. Long-term, very few live on.

 

As for lung cancer, the risk of contracting the disease is greatly heightened by prolonged and heavy exposure to asbestos dust. When combined with smoking the risk becomes phenomenally high. However, for smokers who have been heavily exposed to asbestos but then stop smoking, the risk decreases significantly.

 

Asbestos in your home

 

If you discover asbestos in your home the first rule is not to panic. If it remains undisturbed or is covered by a membrane, such as a non-permeable paint, it won’t be a health hazard. The main problem comes if you sand, drill or saw through it as you risk releasing asbestos dust and fibres into the air that could affect your health. Therefore, avoid attempting to remove and dispose of asbestos yourself. It is much safer to bring in a qualified and trained professional rather than run the risk of exposing yourself and your family to a potentially very hazardous substance.

 

Your best course of action then is to first contact your local authority and request an asbestos inspection. The council inspector will be able to identify if asbestos is present and the risk it poses to you. Once identified the council will advise on how to have the asbestos safely removed from your property. You can then make the arrangements with a specialist contractor, leaving you free to get on with your life.

 

 

 

 

 

HMO Fire Safety Laws

In the last article I touched on fire safety in HMOs -- Houses in Multiple Occupation. These are buildings, such as individual houses, flats and maisonettes, where three or more tenants occupy the building, but in two or more household units within the property. So, for example, a house rented to three unrelated students would be an HMO, as would a larger property that has been split into separate living accommodation and rented out to multiple individuals or families. It should be noted however that properties consisting entirely of self-contained flats are, in general, not classed as HMOs provided that the conversion of the house to flats fully complied with the 1991 Building Regulations. If the flat conversions failed to meet these regulations then HMO status applies -- but only in circumstances where more than one-third of the flats are in use by tenants on short term tenancies.

 

For HMO properties certain laws apply to safeguard the welfare of tenants occupying the premises. These include stringent fire safety laws. So, landlords and tenants, it's time to listen up. It matters not whether you are an experienced landlord with HMO properties or a seasoned HMO tenant, this article is for you and for all the landlords and tenants out there who are new to HMOs and the regulations that apply to them. What is contained in this article could save your life and, quite conceivably from the landlord's point of view, spare you from serving a prison sentence!

 

You and the law

On October 1, 2006 new fire safety laws came into force. For HMOs it requires that a fire risk assessment of the building be conducted, and that adequate provisions are made for fire detection, fire fighting and escaping the fire. These elements are outlined below.

 

Fire risk assessment:

Landlords are responsible for conducting regular fire risk assessments in their HMO. The assessments can be performed by the landlord themselves, or by a responsible and competent person operating on behalf of the landlord. No official fire safety certificate is required from the assessment -- it is purely an exercise in identifying and managing risks.

 

Government guidelines suggest that fire risk assessments be approached in five steps…

Step #1 - Identify fire hazards. This requires the assessor to pinpoint sources of ignition, fuel and oxygen - the three components needed for a fire to start.

Step #2 - Identify the people at risk. This includes those living in the accommodation as well as neighbours who may be affected by a fire at the property.

Step #3 - Evaluate, Reduce, Remove and Protect from risk. Evaluate the risk and take action to lower the risk based on your findings.

Step #4 - Record, Plan, Inform, Instruct and Train. Keep a record of your fire assessments and the actions that you take as a result. Put an emergency plan in place so people know what to do in the event of a fire.

Step #5 - Review. Keep your fire assessments under constant review. Plan regular inspections and update your actions and emergency planning to take into account changes in the property and in the fire safety laws.

 

For further details on how to conduct a fire assessment do go and speak to your local council or fire service.

 

Fire detection and warning:

The new fire safety laws require that you deploy adequate fire detection and warning systems in HMOs. In some instances, battery operated smoke detectors won't cut it. You may instead find that you need an automatic detection and warning system hard-wired into the building, and which is operated from a central control panel. If you are in doubt as to which type of detection system best suits your HMO you should consult your local council or fire safety officer.

 

Fire fighting equipment:

If a fire is detected HMO tenants need adequate equipment available to tackle the blaze. Serviced and operational portable fire extinguishers must be located on each floor of the property, and in sufficient number. Hose reels and sprinkler systems may also be considered in larger HMO premises, as should access to the building and its floors by the fire brigade. Other installations needed for good fire control are self-closing fireproof doors that can withstand up to 30 minutes of heat.

 

Fire escapes:

The landlord is responsible for the provision of internal and/or external fire escape routes in the HMO. This could be one or more set of external stairs, internal stairs, corridors or walkways. All escape routes identified as such will need to be fireproofed. The landlord is also responsible for providing adequate signage on where the escape routes and fire exits are located, and how they are to be reached in the event of a fire.

 

For HMO tenants

If you are a tenant residing in an HMO you should make it your responsibility to ensure that your landlord complies with current fire safety laws. If you think that your landlord is not fulfilling their obligations you should first speak, or better write, to your landlord to inform him/her of your concerns. Ask for a response and for a commitment to addressing the issues raised. If no positive action is forthcoming do contact your local council or fire service. They will inspect the property, and in circumstances where
there is non-compliance with fire safety laws, they can take steps to remedy the situation. In some circumstances the council may bring prosecution proceedings against the landlord.

Safety Tips for tenants

• Leave a door key accessible at a low level - where smoke will not initially reach - or in the front door, and make sure all occupants are aware of its location. This will make it easier to escape the building in the event of a fire.

• Where old sash windows were replaced with double glazing and only the top part can be opened it is a good idea to leave a hammer close by so that the glazing can be broken and an escape made.

Fire Office Contacts

London: The London Fire Brigade is run by the London Fire and Emergency Planning Authority (LFEPA). Each London borough and the City of London has its own fire safety centre. To contact your local centre telephone LFEPA on 020 7587 2000.

Manchester: The Greater Manchester Fire and Rescue Service covers Bury, Manchester, Salford and Stockport. For details of your local fire safety office you can contact the main switchboard on 0161 736 5866.

 

Most importantly, be sure to have your Mezuzos checked at least twice in seven years, after all it's your safety which is at stake.

 

Damp Dangers

Mould around windowsills, which is sometimes caused by condensation, and on walls and ceilings is a familiar sight to homeowners up and down the country. Like a virus this black-grey and green mass seems to spread into our rooms, resisting our increasingly desperate attempts to shift it with the latest cleaning products that promise much but deliver little. Without a doubt, it is an eyesore - and an embarrassment when you've invited guests around to stay. But did you know that mould is also a hazard to your health and to the health of those who you invite into your home?

 

Mould health hazards

 

Indoor moulds are fungi that develop in damp / moist areas of the home. When conditions are right for mould growth (but wrong for us) the mould releases high levels of spores into the air in its efforts to reproduce. These spores, which are invisible to the eye and are often odourless, can cause respiratory illnesses in people who are exposed to them.

 

Most at risk are allergy sufferers. When mould spores are breathed in they irritate and inflame the airways. Allergic rhinitis, bronchitis and sneezing are common ailments that result from exposure. Children with soft lung "linings" and asthma sufferers too may find their breathing compromised by mould spores - a situation that could bring about a sudden asthma attack.

 

But being an effective allergen is not the only way mould can affect our health. When the environment is right, some types of mould, such as stachybotrys - a common indoor mould that thrives in damp spots and takes on a black slimy appearance - excrete gaseous compounds as part of their life cycle. Known as mycotoxins these odourless releases are poisonous and will cause harm, especially to people living with them 24/7. If the level of mycotoxins goes unchecked long-term exposure could end up being lethal.

 

Tell-tale signs

Recognising the signs of mould growth is the first step on the road to solving your mould problem. Around windowsills look out for the appearance of dark spots and patches growing in, on or under the sealant around the frame. Look too for furry mould growth on seals that edge the window glass. Peeling paint on walls and ceilings is a sure sign of damp - the precursor to mould growth. If your wallpaper becomes discoloured and begins to peel check that too for dampness. Detecting damp conditions that aid mould growth on floors can be difficult if your floors are carpeted. Look carefully at the condition of the carpet and check for moss, lichen and algae growths. For wooden floors the same applies. Woodworm damage too is a sign that you could have a damp problem.

Solving the problem

 

If you have a mould problem in your home you'll need to urgently identify the source of the mould. For mould to grow it needs a water source. This could be something as simple as water running down brickwork from a leaking gutter, or it could be something more serious such as rising damp. For leaks emanating from your roof consider enlisting the services of a roofing specialist. They can help you track down even the smallest of breaches in your roof that could be letting rainwater seep in. If the problem is on the ground level you may want to bring in a specialist damp coursing company to evaluate if there is an issue with your damp proofing. Should they identify this as the root of your problem they will use injection equipment to put in place a new damp proof barrier under your home. Reputable companies will provide a long-term guarantee for their work.

Whatever the cause, once you've identified it, you can take steps to remedy the situation, cutting off the mould's moisture supply.

 

Next, remove the mould growth that you have in your home. Use a fungicidal wash to do this. The most reliable washes are those that carry Health & Safety Executive approval. Follow the product's instructions and then redecorate the areas affected with a fungicidal paint or polystyrene-backed wallpaper to prevent mould reappearing.

 

Finally, take steps to better ventilate your property. Condensation, even though you may find it not to be the primary cause of your mould problem, certainly does not help your situation. If condensation is bad it could reawaken mould growth in those problem areas or it could introduce mould to new areas of your living space.

 

Dehumidifiers are an excellent way of controlling indoor moisture. They are frequently used as a way to reduce incidences of condensation. You should also think about your property's insulation. The less the air temperature in your home swings around, the better protected you'll be from any recurrence of a mouldy nightmare!

 

Burglars and Holiday - Part II

It is this time of the year again when the cold spell sets in and you are planning a well deserved Winter break. Incidentally, this is also the period of the sales season, when public spending soars through the annual charts - but we shouldn't forget that some people will want to join the frenzy and will do anything to lay their hands on some easy money.
Burglars will strike when they find an easy target or an easy time: unattended places or unattentive people. Statistically many burglaries happen to occupied houses when people sleep the tightest between the hours of 2:00AM to 5:00AM.
With this in mind, it would be prudent to put some safeguards in place, in addition to our previous Home Security article, published prior to the Summer holiday

The Basics:
Always keep the door locked, even when you are in the house; just because you are indoors does not mean someone would not come in anyway.
If your front door doesn't have glass, you can fit a spy-hole in the front and back door. Or get into the habit of looking through a window near the door to see who is calling.
Train children not to open the door to strangers at any time, even with when using CCTV or similar entry phones.
Be sure, at night as well as daytime, that yard gates and other such locations are closed; many burglars prefer a place where very easy access is provided-opening and closing a gate takes time, attracts attention, makes noise, etc.

When bringing in the shopping from your car, or working in the back yard, don't leave the front door unlocked. Or if running next door for a minute, don't leave the house open and doors unlocked . . . many thefts and burglaries occur this way without the owner or renter knowing it.

Lighting
An outside light over the door will help you see a caller in the dark. Install one with a built-in timer or with a daylight sensor.

Locks
Do not use the spring-snap locks; they are opened very easily and practically without any sound.
Use chain locks as an added precaution on all entries.
Remember: it does little good to have good locks on the front door and poor locks elsewhere.

Doorstep Crooks or genuine Tradesmen?
Some criminals won't go to the trouble of breaking into your home if they can just knock and be invited in. You've probably had many authentic callers at your front door and not one trickster – but be careful. Bogus callers come in all shapes and sizes.
When answering the door, ask to see proper identification; if the person is a salesman, solicitor, repairman or utility company representative, he or she will have proper identification. If you agree to have someone visit your home and you will not be home when they call, be sure to leave a note for the family members to confirm the details.
Water board officials never need to come into your home to test water pressure or repair leaks - even in emergencies. If they do need to get in they send you a letter first.
Gas and electricity meter readers want you to check their identity before you let them in. If in doubt, ring up and check; bona fide callers don't mind this in the least. Keep the phone numbers handy.
You could always join the password scheme so the meter reader gives you an arranged password when they call.
Report too many "wrong number" calls you receive from telephone callers to the police and telephone company; it could be a burglar - with a very convincing voice - trying to determine if anyone is at home.
Never allow anyone to talk you into "buying" back something stolen from your home. Report such an offer to police promptly and follow their instructions on the matter.

Consult your home content insurance provider for further guidance.

Remember...
Don't let people in until you know who they are
Keep the door locked while you check their story
If you let someone in, stay with them at all times
Never part with money or other things, whatever they say
If suspicious - ring the police
Check identity cards thoroughly
Don't let callers put pressure on you to let them in; and
If in doubt - Keep Them Out!
*** Last and most importantly: Use COMMON SENSE - if you are suspicious, don't take chances! ***
The best way to have a safe home is to have your mezuzas checked twice every seven years"

Burglars and Holiday - Part I

No holiday from Ganovim  

Before you set off on vacation it would be prudent to make some very simple arrangements as a precaution against burglaries, says Menasche Scharf  

 

It is this time of the year again when you will be making plans to pack your bags and go on holiday. With no one to look after your home in your absence, it would be prudent to make some very simple arrangements as a precaution against burglaries.   The recent spate of robberies in and around North and North West London was well publicized, but many others take place without ever being reported, so this is even more reason to be vigilant. 

Be sure, that yard gates and other such locations are closed; many burglars prefer a place where very easy access is provided-opening and closing a gate takes time, attracts attention, makes noise, and the like.
Don't leave a note saying when you will return and make sure you close the garage door when leaving (lock it too).
Padlock your garage (it is a good entry point for burglars).
Do not leave ladders outside the house; they are perfect devices for entry.
Mark expensive clothing and furs with indelible ink, showing your driver's license number or some other identifiable mark.
Lighting
Outside: light up the side of the house, back and front and garage area with nightlights; few homes with such lighting are ever "hit".
Get an outdoor light with a sensor that comes on when someone's around.
Inside: leave at least one light on (plus a bathroom light); do not pull the shades or curtains when not at home.
You can get timers for your lamps and ceiling lights. Don't just light up the hall. You can light up the landing, bathroom, bedroom and living room too. If you vary the times each light comes on, you give the impression that you're in.
Locks: Do not buy any cheap locks - they are hardly worth the risk.
Use dead-bolt locks (especially the ones that require a key); or use sliding barrel locks; use crossbars and hasp locks on garage, cellar and other such doors.
Check your door hinges . . . if the pins are on the outside, change them to the inside (or to non-removable ones) to prevent a burglar from removing them to open the door and get in.
Make sure locks are away from windows (to prevent the window from being smashed and the burglar reaching in to unlock it).
Don't put your name or address on the key case you carry; if lost or stolen, change locks regardless of whether you had your name or address inside the case.
Basement/Cellar: Windows are many times left open and are an easy place to enter a home or apartment building. Close and lock them at all times!
Doorway: make sure the door to any other part of the apartment building or to the basement, garage or fire escape is adequately locked just as solidly and securely as the front door.
Remember: it does little good to have good locks on the front door and poor locks elsewhere.
Walls and Fences: High fences are hard to climb, but they give a burglar cover once he's over. Keep them low, if you can. The best fences have a trellis on top – it makes them harder to climb.
Keep the shrubbery trimmed away from windows and keep it trimmed to a low height; they are excellent places for someone to hide and not be seen when burglarizing.
Sound:You can use a timer for a CD or cassette player. Choosing a talking record (rather than a music one) is a good idea.
Curtains: Get a trusted neighbour to open and close your curtains if you're away.
Remember... If suspicious - ring the police
*** Last and most importantly: Use COMMON SENSE - if you are suspicious, don't take chances! ***

(Some of the following tips come from the Haringey People Magazine, 07/2007 and from an Advice Resource of Senator Vincent J. ‎Fumo’s office, Pennsylvania, U.S.A.)

Date: 18/07/2007

Top tips on using Fire Extinguishing Equipment in your Home

Encountering a fire in your own home is a frightening experience. So many thoughts are likely to go through your mind on seeing smoke and flames invading your living space - but, on discovering the fire, you must act quickly and calmly for your own safety and for the safety of others in your property. Within seconds you'll need to assess the severity of the fire. How large is it? Can it be tackled safely? Is it in a dangerous location? Could it spread quickly or cause an explosion? Has it already damaged the building structure? These are your key questions - questions that will help you decide on a course of action.

 

If the fire is advanced or has the potential to spiral out of control your first priority is to alert others in the property and evacuate. When everyone is at a safe distance you should dial 999 and ask for the fire brigade. However, if the fire is small and caught early on then you may decide that you can extinguish it yourself using your own fire extinguishing equipment.

 

Fire Extinguisher Types

There are three types of fire extinguisher suitable for use at home. These are…

• 
  

  Powder extinguishers

  
  


• 
  

  Foam extinguishers

  
  


• 
  

  Water extinguishers

  
  

 

Two types of powder extinguisher are available on the market. These are standard powders and multi-purpose 'dry' powders. For home use the multi-purpose powder is recommended, as this tends to be more effective in 'knocking down' flames than standard powders, especially when the fire is burning solids. Standard powders are more effective on liquid-based fires.

 

Foam extinguishers too work well in the home. Just like the powder extinguishers there are two types of foam extinguisher - a standard foam extinguisher and an aqueous film forming foam (AFFF) extinguisher. Only the AFFF extinguisher is suitable for our purposes as it can be used to stop all but electrical and chip pan fires.

 

Water extinguishers are probably the least useful in a house fire. Their function is to cool the burning material, but their usage is severely restricted. At best they can only extinguish burning solids like wood and paper.

 

How to use a fire extinguisher safely

Fire extinguishers are very easy to use. For most types of extinguisher it is simply a matter of unclipping the hose, removing the pin from the handle and aiming the jet at the appropriate part of the fire. All extinguishers are labelled with instructions on how to use them. As a matter of course you should get familiar with those instructions so in the event that you need to use your extinguisher you can do so with confidence.

 

When using powder extinguishers you'll knock down the flames quicker if you aim the jet of powder at the base of the fire and sweep the jet from side-to-side. It should be noted though that powder extinguishers do little to cool the burning object(s). The fire that you have put out could therefore reignite. Great care and vigilance is needed then when tackling fires with this type of product.

 

Water extinguishers and foam extinguishers are used in much the same way as powder extinguishers for solid burning fires. But where the fire material is a liquid a foam extinguisher should be dispensed against a vertical surface, such as a wall, above the fire base. This way the burning liquid is not spread from its original area by the powerful jet or spray dispenser.

 

Chip pan fires

None of the fire extinguishers mentioned cope at all well with chip pan fires. The main problem encountered is that burning fat and oil is too easily spread around the kitchen by the extinguisher, either by the strength of the jet or by the volume of material it adds to the pan, which then causes the burning liquid to overflow. Water extinguishers can even cause the oil and fat in the pan to explode!

 

The solution for a chip pan fire then is NOT to use a fire extinguisher. Instead, a fire blanket should be draped over the flames. This separates the burning material from its air supply, killing the fire.

Ready for action?

Regardless of the type of fire extinguishing equipment in your possession, it will only be of any use to you if you can get to it easily in an emergency. Therefore, don't store fire extinguishers and fire blankets in a back room somewhere or in the understairs cupboard. Instead make the equipment readily available for use in a commonly used area of your home, such as in your hallway, or for a fire blanket, in the kitchen.

 

For fire extinguishers do remember too that you or a member of your family may need to carry the equipment to a different part of the house to tackle a blaze. Extinguishers should therefore be of a manageable size and easily portable.

 

Finally, do make a point of having all fire extinguishers in your possession serviced once each year or as per the manufacturer's instructions. It'll ensure that they are in full working order and that they'll be ready to do the job should you need to use them on a fire in your home.

Advice for Landlords

If you rent out your home or a residential investment property you have a legal responsibility to ensure t
he safety of your tenants. Part of your remit is to ensure that appropriate fire extinguishing equipment is available to the tenant, is fully serviced and is in good working order. If the equipment is absent, damaged or non-functional the tenant may have the legal right to prosecute you. It therefore pays to take your responsibilities seriously. Further advice can be sought from your local council.

If you own a House in Multiple Occupation (HMO) you'll have extra responsibilities with regards to fire safety. This includes the installation of an adequate fire alarm system and the provision of firefighting equipment on each floor of the property, and in appropriate quantities for the number of residents in the property. Self-closing fire doors must also be fitted. The landlord is responsible too for setting up and maintaining fire escape exits and routes. For furnished rental properties all furniture supplied must be approved as fire resistant.

For more advice on how to comply with fire safety laws in an HMO do contact your local council authority. The council's fire officer will be more than willing to help you assess your fire risk and to point you in the right direction on how to fulfil your fire safety obligations to protect both you and your tenants.

Waking up to the Threat of Terrorism

Six years ago this September the world changed. The tragedy of ‘9/11’ and what followed delivered a new fear of terrorism into the lives of millions. It brought global security issues into our backyards, and ever since there has been a collective anxiety about what could happen next.

 

Today, the threat of terrorism on UK soil remains undimmed. Only last November MI5 announced that it was aware of 30 terror plots that could threaten UK security. They also made it clear that, overall, the threat of terrorism in the UK was “growing” – a situation that is already putting pressure on insurance companies to increase their household insurance premiums.

 

A threat to our homes

The threat of terrorism is just one of several factors that influence the cost of buildings and contents insurance. Increased risk of flooding, a higher burglary rate and a higher rate of insurance claims are up there in the mix, and combine with the terrorist threat to push up our premiums.

 

Buildings insurance is, understandably, one of the policies hardest hit. Our homes and places of work are often first to suffer when a major insurance event like a windstorm or fire strikes. The same can be said for the effects of terrorist activity.

 

Acts of terrorism are always going to be tough to deal with for a number of reasons. Our own safety and the safety of others is of course paramount in these situations. Concern for the safety of our properties comes next. Should our homes be damaged as a result of terrorist activity, with the right insurance cover in place we can at least rest assured that the costs of repairing or rebuilding our properties are not going to cripple us financially. It does however beg the question as to what is the 'right' level of insurance cover.

 

Insurance cover for terrorist activity

UK building insurance policies, in most instances, provide financial protection against an act of terrorism that damages residential property. Specifically, residential building insurance policies are designed to pay out on claims for damage sustained by fire, explosion or impact, regardless of whether the cause was accidental or through a deliberate malicious act. An act of terrorism falls into this latter category.

 

Consequential costs are normally covered too. So if you needed to stay in alternative accommodation while your property was being repaired your insurance policy could foot the bill for up to 20% of the sum insured.

 

Having said this, it is highly recommended that householders read their policies thoroughly to ensure that no exclusions are cited in connection with damage caused by terrorist acts. It must also be noted that, at this time, the UK insurance industry DOES NOT legislate for contamination caused by terrorist activity. If contamination is the only issue you won't have cover for consequential costs either.

 

Do you live in a block of flats?

Building insurance for some flats in the UK may be classed as commercial property insurance. If this is the case, damage to property caused by terrorism is covered in a separate 'top-up' policy available on the market. You will find when taking up this option that contamination cover is offered. This will cover the cost of damage, clear up and of alternative accommodation should your flat be affected by biological, chemical or radiological contamination as a result of terrorist activity. It is certainly a step up from your standard residential policy and provides a level of financial protection that is as comprehensive as you could reasonably hope to wish for as far as your property is concerned.

 

Is it time you examined your buildings insurance policy again?

It pays to keep your Trees under Control

Trees are a much-loved and vital part of our landscape. They not only provide us with a pleasing vista that draws the eye, but they offer a functional value too - in their various guises trees absorb road noise, encourage wildlife into our towns and cities, and help to protect our planet by reducing the level of atmospheric carbon dioxide. You could almost say that these leafy towers are the ultimate multitaskers – keeping our lives and the planet in check while looking serene and calm in the process!

 

But for all the good that trees bring into our lives, for some property owners they can be their worst nightmare. All it takes is for one tree to be planted too close to a building, or to be allowed to grow unchecked and – BHAM…an instant problem is yours as roots tangle with your property’s foundations or cause the ground around the building to subside. It is stressful and costly to correct – and what’s worse, the damage could be caused by a tree that you don't even own!

Trees and the law

The courts are littered with cases involving disputes over neighbouring trees. Property owners have taken each other to court, and have even taken their local councils to court - all because the owner of the tree failed to keep it under control.

 

In the eyes of the law tree problems either amount to trespass or nuisance.

 

Trespass tends to apply to any direct action that impedes upon a neighbour's land or property - overhanging branches and tree roots being prime examples. If the owner of a tree allows a tree's branches to hang over their property boundary then, by law, those branches are trespassing on the neighbouring property's airspace. The property owner who is suffering the trespass can cut back the tree to the boundary without seeking the permission of the tree's owner, so long as the lopped branches (and any fruit) are returned. However, it is strongly advisable to first communicate your intent to your neighbour to avoid any bad feelings!

 

Nuisance is defined as an indirect effect - a consequence that, in this instance, can be traced back to an offending tree. For properties in clay soil areas it is quite common for nearby trees to soak up ground moisture in the summer months to the extent that the soil shrinks in volume. This can cause subsidence and can weaken a building's foundations.

 

Sometimes, the situation can become so severe that the property's owner will need to have the foundations underpinned. If the tree is on a neighbour's property and no compromise agreement is reached, the complainant is perfectly within their rights to sue the tree's owner and claim for the cost of underpinning the foundations. If taken to court, the law will most likely interpret the charge as 'nuisance', even if the roots physically trespass under the complainant's land.

 

Trespassing tree roots

 

Trespassing tree roots that cause direct damage by way of blocking drains, rupturing paving slabs and interfering with a property's foundations are a serious problem for both tree owners and neighbours alike. The main issue is that, for property owners, the extent of a tree's roots underground cannot normally be seen. This makes it difficult to monitor their growth and reach. In some cases it might only be when actual damage is caused to the property that the size of the root system becomes apparent.

 

For neighbours who are worried about tree roots trespassing onto their land and under their properties they have the right to chop the roots along their boundary - even if the tree dies as a result. However, great care should be taken to ensure that the tree does not become dangerous or unstable in the process - and the local council may need to be consulted if the tree is in a conservation area, or if it is protected by a tree preservation order (TPO).

 

Before taking action it is therefore best to talk to your neighbour and, if possible, come to a friendly agreement on what should be done to head off the problem. To help you assess the impact of cutting through the tree's roots you should also consider enlisting the help of a professional tree surgeon,also known as an Arboricultural Consultant. If your neighbour is uncooperative, or if damage has already been caused by trespassing tree roots, you might want to get your solicitor involved.

 

 

 

 

 

Safe compliance with HIPS: Advice for Vendors

Home Information Packs (HIPs) became mandatory on August 1, 2007. Vendors advertising properties for sale with four or more bedrooms must now commission a HIP to accompany their property to the market. Come September 10, 2007 the same regulations will apply to three bedroom homes in England and Wales.

 

If you are planning on selling your property soon you'll need to get familiar with HIPs - and importantly, how improving the safety of your property for a visit by the Home Inspector can help you make it more attractive to buyers.

 

HIPs - The Facts

 

It is the seller's responsibility to arrange a HIP for their property when they advertise it for sale. In practice, vendors can enlist the services of their estate agent to make the arrangements on their behalf. Alternatively, the property vendor can order their HIP through a specialist HIP provider, or through their solicitor.

 

The idea behind HIPs is to make the process of buying and selling property easier and more transparent. With this in mind the government has outlined a number of compulsory and optional documents that are to be contained in the Home Information Pack.

 

Briefly these are…

 

• 
  

  Statement of Sale

  
  


• 
  

  Evidence of Title including Title Plan

  
  


• 
  

  Property and Land Searches

  
  


• 
  

  Lease Documentation (if leasehold)

  
  


• 
  

  Energy Performance Certificate (EPC)

  
  

 

Optional documents are…

 

• 
  

  Home Condition Report

  
  


• 
  

  Guarantees and Warranties

  
  


• 
  

  Fixtures and Fittings List

  
  

 

The HIP provider will compile all relevant information as required and requested into the Home Information Pack. It is they who will liase with the solicitor or conveyancer for search information, and it is they who will organise a qualified Home Inspector to visit your property to perform an Energy Assessment and to produce the Home Condition Report if needed.

 

Energy Performance Certificates and Home Condition Report

 

The Energy Performance Certificate is a central document in the HIP. It is an energy audit of your property to assess its energy efficiency, and to determine how cost effective the property is to run. The EPC will grade your property on a sliding scale between band 'A' and band 'G'. Band 'A' ratings denote high-energy efficiency and low running costs. Band 'G' ratings show the property to be poor on energy efficiency and costly to run.

EPCs have been a long time in their arrival. Back in 1997, at the tabling of the Kyoto Protocol in Japan, a framework agreement was put in place to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, including Co2 - these are seen as the main contributing factors to climate change. Member states of the European Union signed up to the agreement, and, in an effort to meet reduction targets, have focused EU directives at lowering energy consumption in buildings. In the UK it is estimated that around 50% of all the country's energy is consumed by lighting, heating and electrical appliances used in our homes and at work. The government and its advisors believe that the introduction of more energy-efficient products into the home and workplace, and improvements in regulating ambient temperature in living spaces so less energy is used, will help the UK meet its carbon emission targets.

Enter then the EPC. It is hoped that by making an EPC a mandatory part of the Home Information Pack that home buyers and sellers will have a greater awareness of their energy consumption, and thus their personal contribution to climate change. On the certificate is an energy efficiency rating and a environmental impact rating. Both will have the current rating of the property and a 'potential' rating. The 'potential' is what could be achieved at the property should the recommendations noted on the EPC be implemented.

 

The Home Condition Report is much more familiar. It is a physical inspection of the property - a form of basic survey if you will. This report is included in the HIP on a voluntary basis by the seller and will highlight any health and safety concerns at the property.

 

Improving Safety for a more attractive HIP

 

As the EPC and Home Condition Report rely on the visit of a Home Inspector to the property, vendors have an opportunity to make some improvements to the property ahead the visit - improvements that could make the property safer, more energy efficient and thus more attractive to potential buyers from the start.

 

On the energy front for example, you could look at the safety aspects of your boiler. An old boiler, especially if not regularly serviced, could be a threat to your health. Parts might have corroded leaving the boiler dangerous and certainly inefficient to run. By replacing the boiler with a new high-efficiency condensing boiler, you'll not only make your property safer but you'll get full marks from the Home Inspector too.

 

If you've opte
d for the Home Condition Report have a think about health and safety issues at your property. Are slates and tiles loose on your roof? Is the chimney stack in need of some attention? Is your guttering secure, or do you have damp areas on internal walls and ceilings? If you can identify these potential safety hazards and take action to correct them, that Home Condition Report in your HIP will have buyers falling over themselves to buy your property!

 

 

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning -- The Facts

Each year more than 250 people in the UK are accidentally poisoned in their homes by carbon monoxide gas from a boiler or cooker. On average, around 50 of these poisonings will be fatal - although some sources suggest the number of fatalities to be higher. Of those who survive a significant number end up enduring long-term injuries and disability that stay with them for the rest of their lives.

 

Nausea, headaches, dizziness and tiredness are the common symptoms to look out for. If you're feeling ill in your home but feel better outside, at work or on holiday, you could very well be suffering the effects of low-level carbon monoxide poisoning. Frighteningly, exposure to high levels of carbon monoxide wreaks havoc very quickly. Within a couple of minutes of exposure we could suffer serious illness. A few minutes later we could lose consciousness or worse.

 

The statistics certainly make grim reading - and the chief reason why is that carbon monoxide, to all intents and purposes, is invisible to the human senses. You can't smell it. You can't see it. You can't taste it. Basically, if you don't know that it is there you may not realise that you've been poisoned until it's too late!

 

The causes of carbon monoxide poisoning

 

Carbon monoxide is a by-product of burning fossil fuels such as gas, oil, coal and wood. When burning takes place in a confined space or in a room without adequate ventilation, the oxygen in the air is used up in the burning process. This results in the release of carbon dioxide (Co2).

 

Carbon dioxide, while not poisonous in itself in this situation, does hinder the supply of oxygen reaching the burning fuel. This in turn makes the burning process inefficient. Fuel that is not fully combusted then begins to throw carbon monoxide out into the air. The silent killer is unleashed.

 

In the home gas burning and wood burning appliances have the most potential to bring about carbon monoxide poisoning. Gas stoves, gas boilers, wood burners, open coal fires and gas heaters all pose a risk, that is unless you take preventative action to tackle the threat.

 

Top safety tips

 

Regular safety checks on your fuel burning appliances is the solution that will stop you from becoming another carbon monoxide poisoning statistic.

 

First up check the flame colour of your gas appliances. The flame should burn a brilliant blue. If it burns more orange than blue then you have a problem. Switch the appliance off and call out a gas engineer immediately. For gas boilers and gas fires do get a corgi-registered engineer to service the appliances every year.

 

Gas flues should be checked to make sure that they are not blocked. It is not that uncommon for birds to choose the end of a flue pipe as a nesting site. This could restrict outflow of carbon monoxide fumes and lead to a build up of the deadly gas around the vented appliance. Likewise, if you have a chimney running off an open fireplace do keep a regular eye out for nesting birds. Employing the services of a chimney sweep can help you out here.

 

Check too that your air bricks and vents are free from blockages. This is especially important in your kitchen area and any other room where you have gas appliances or a gas boiler.

For the ultimate preventative measure do install a carbon monoxide detector in every room of your home where there is a fuel burning appliance. Detectors cost between £10 and £20 each and are fitted to the ceiling in the same way as a smoke alarm. It's a small price to pay for equipment that could end up saving your life.

 

 

Time for a Central Heating Check Up

When the leaves on the trees don their gold and crimson jackets it's a sure sign that winter is just around the corner. Cold days and frosty nights will soon be with us, coercing the central heating system in your property to start working overtime.  But, before the heating switch is 'thrown in anger' for the first time this winter, it is more than worth having the system checked over by a professional. A full central heating check up will reveal any potential glitches in your heating system - glitches that could give you a real headache in the depths of winter if left unchecked.

Potential Central Heating Troubles
Central heating systems are very much like cars. They're great when they are working, but to keep them humming along efficiently they need regular care and attention.
Neglecting the central heating system in your property is just inviting trouble. Anything from blocked pipes to carbon monoxide poisoning from the boiler could surface as a result. And believe me, if it is the latter, you'll be doing more than just kicking yourself for not having had your central heating system serviced this year.
So, what does a central heating check up involve? Ideally it should comprise the following inspection points…
Boiler: Efficiency of the boiler's heat exchangers should be checked, along with the boiler's seals and ignition system. Importantly, the boiler's burners must be scrutinised. If the burners are not fully consuming fuel a build up of lethal carbon monoxide may well be underway.
Flues & Ventilation: Flues and vents must be examined to ensure that they are free from obstruction. A flue blockage may cause a deadly cocktail of flue gases to collect in the room where the boiler is located.
Pump: The pump is at the heart of a property's hot water system. An inspection should make sure that it is operating as efficiently as possible. Sludge and lime scale are the chief culprits of pump inefficiency. These deposits reduce heat output from radiators in the property, beginning with the radiators furthest away from the pump.
Radiators: Radiators too may suffer from the build up of sludge and lime scale deposits. If the lower portion of a radiator remains cold when the central heating is on, it is likely that sludge and lime scale are to blame.
Should the opposite be true - that is the top section of the radiator is cool when the heating system is switched on - trapped air in the radiator unit is most probably the cause. This can easily be remedied by bleeding the radiator(s) in question.
Feed & Expansion Tank: Normally located in the property's loft space, the feed and expansion tank is an integral part of the central heating system. The ball valve and washer are subject to wear and erosion over time. This may lead to water leakage into the tank and out through the overflow pipe.
Central Heating Service Solution for Landlords
For landlords, keeping abreast of central heating checks is just one of the many commitments that must be juggled in an industry fraught with red tape. If your property has a gas-fired boiler you are of course obligated by law to subject it to an annual safety check courtesy of a CORGI registered engineer.
Forgetting, or worse, choosing not to book a gas safety check and central heating service could, quite literally, land you in hot water. Not only will you have unhappy tenants and quite possibly a large repair bill, you could, in the case of lapsing on your annual gas safety check, be fined and imprisoned.
Central heating service providers understand this, and is the reason why landlords are offered annual service contracts on their boilers and central heating systems. When the consequences are considered, skipping out on your boiler and central heating check up this year is simply not worth the risk.
© Pacedream Limited 18/0/2007 Tel: 08456 980044 Fax: 020 82111 782

Burning down the house!

Fire Kills - but YOU can prevent it. That is the leading campaign message championed in unison by government and the UK's Fire and Rescue Services. It is a message that is being heard loud and clear, and with increasing effect - in 2005 deaths caused by fire in the UK were down to their lowest level for 46 years.

 

The reason for this impressive decrease is obvious when you look at the government's fire statistics. Figures show that there are now more homes fitted with smoke alarms than ever before in the UK. Compared with 20 years ago this represents a ten-fold jump in smoke alarm ownership.

 

Still, there is much work to do in terms of promoting smoke alarm awareness. Not only are hundreds of thousands of homeowners and tenants exposed to fire hazards without any sort of smoke alarm device installed in their properties, but a significant number of householders who do have alarms fail to maintain their units, or even check that they are working properly. Is it time you had a look at your smoke alarm needs?

 

Choosing a smoke alarm

 

There are essentially two types of smoke alarm on the market today - ionisation alarms and optical alarms.

 

Ionisation alarms are the cheapest and most readily available. They are highly sensitive to smoke particles and will sound the alarm whenever a threshold number of particles enter the unit's ionisation chamber. But be warned - these types of alarms are easily set off by extraneous smoke from cooking. It is therefore best to place any ionisation alarm that you have well away from the kitchen area, otherwise you may find yourself constantly wafting a tea towel at it!

Optical smoke alarms are the alternative. These units sense fire by using an infrared emitting diode and photo diode to detect smoke particles entering the diode housing chamber. When the light beams are broken the alarm sounds.

 

For smouldering fires, such as those that involve the burning of foam-filled furniture, optical smoke alarms are the best. They can pick up on these sorts of fires much more quickly than an ionisation unit can.

 

Fire safety officers do recommend that both types of alarm be installed in your property. But, if you can't afford both, one alarm is better than none!

 

When making your choice you should also consider the volume of the alarm. All alarms have a a decibel (dBA) rating. This generally ranges from 55dBA (quietest) to 90dBA (loudest). In a normal situation where the alarm is needed to wake healthy adults from a deep sleep at 4am, an alarm of 55dBA to 65dBA will do the job. But, if you are hard of hearing a louder alarm is recommended.

 

Just to be sure that your smoke alarm will wake you from a deep sleep it is worth testing it out in your own home. You could have someone set off the alarm during the night to see if or how quickly you wake up. If you sleep through the noise, you need a louder alarm!

 

 

Positioning your smoke alarm

 

As smoke always rises a smoke alarm performs best if it is secured to the ceiling. Ideally, you should have at least one smoke alarm per floor of your property. These should be located in common access areas, such as on your landing and hallway or at the foot of your stairs.

 

For total peace of mind it is worth considering positioning a smoke alarm in every room where there is a large electrical appliance. This includes lounge areas and bedrooms.

 

Once installed, check your smoke alarms on a regular basis. Use the 'test' button on the alarm unit to make sure it is in good working order every week; change the battery every year, and replace the units completely at least once every ten years. Oh, and if you have the decorators in, do make a special effort to check your alarm after they've gone. If there's been dust flying about they might have removed the battery to stop it constantly going off.

Remember - a smoke alarm is only of any use if it actually works!