This week, Menashe Scharf examines the current legislation on ensuring the fire safety of HMOs
We touched last time on fire safety in HMO’s -- Houses in Multiple Occupation. These are buildings, such as individual houses, flats and maisonettes, where three or more tenants occupy the building, but in two or more household units within the property. So, for example, a house rented to three unrelated students would be an HMO, as would a larger property that has been split into separate living accommodation and rented out to multiple individuals or families.
For HMO properties certain laws apply to safeguard the welfare of tenants occupying the premises. These include stringent fire safety laws. So, landlords and tenants, it's time to read carefully. It matters not whether you are an experienced landlord with HMO properties or a seasoned HMO tenant; this applies to you and to all the landlords and tenants out there who are new to HMO’s. Reading this could save your life and, quite conceivably from the landlord's point of view, spare you from serving a prison sentence!
You and the law
On October 1, 2006 new fire safety laws came into force. For HMO’s it requires that a fire risk assessment of the building be conducted, and that adequate provisions are made for fire detection, fire fighting and escaping the fire. These elements are outlined below.
Fire risk assessment:
Landlords are responsible for conducting regular fire risk assessments in their HMO. The assessments can be performed by the landlord themselves, or by a responsible and competent person operating on behalf of the landlord. No official fire safety certificate is required from the assessment -- it is purely an exercise in identifying and managing risks.
Government guidelines suggest that fire risk assessments be approached in five steps…
Step 1 - Identify fire hazards. This requires the assessor to pinpoint sources of ignition, fuel and oxygen - the three components needed for a fire to start.
Step 2 - Identify the people at risk. This includes those living in the accommodation as well as neighbours who may be affected by a fire at the property.
Step 3 - Evaluate, Reduce, Remove and Protect from risk. Evaluate the risk and take action to lower the risk based on your findings.
Step 4 - Record, Plan, Inform, Instruct and Train. Keep a record of your fire assessments and the actions that you take as a result. Put an emergency plan in place so people know what to do in the event of a fire.
Step 5 - Review. Keep your fire assessments under constant review. Plan regular inspections and update your actions and emergency planning to take into account changes in the property and in the fire safety laws.
For further details on how to conduct a fire assessment do go and speak to your local council or fire service.
Fire detection and warning:
The new fire safety laws require that you deploy adequate fire detection and warning systems in HMO’s. In some instances, battery operated smoke detectors won't cut it. You may instead find that you need an automatic detection and warning system hard-wired into the building, and which is operated from a central control panel. If you are in doubt as to which type of detection system best suits your HMO you should consult your local council or fire safety officer.
Fire fighting equipment:
If a fire is detected HMO tenants need adequate equipment available to tackle the blaze. Serviced and operational portable fire extinguishers must be located on each floor of the property, and in sufficient number. Hose reels and sprinkler systems may also be considered in larger HMO premises, as should access to the building and its floors by the fire brigade. Other installations needed for good fire control are self-closing fireproof doors that can withstand up to 30 minutes of heat.
Fire escapes:
The landlord is responsible for the provision of internal and/or external fire escape routes in the HMO. This could be one or more set of external stairs, internal stairs, corridors or walkways. All escape routes identified as such will need to be fireproofed. The landlord is also responsible for providing adequate signage on where the escape routes and fire exits are located, and how they are to be reached in the event of a fire.
For HMO tenants:
If you are a tenant residing in an HMO you should make it your responsibility to ensure that your landlord complies with current fire safety laws. If you think that your landlord is not fulfilling their obligations you should first speak, or better write, to your landlord to inform him/her of your concerns. Ask for a response and for a commitment to addressing the issues raised. If no positive action is forthcoming do contact your local council or fire service. They will inspect the property, and in circumstances where there is non-compliance with fire safety laws, they can take steps to remedy the situation. In some circumstances the council may bring prosecution proceedings against the landlord.
Fire Office Contacts
London: The London Fire Brigade is run by the London Fire and Emergency Planning Authority (LFEPA). Each London borough and the City of London has its own fire safety centre. To contact your local centre telephone LFEPA on 020 7587 2000.
Manchester: The Greater Manchester Fire and Rescue Service covers Bury, Manchester, Salford and Stockport. For details of your local fire safety office you can contact the main switchboard on 0161 736 5866.
Most importantly, be sure to have your Mezuzos checked at least twice in seven years, after all, it's your safety which is at stake.
Bikur Cholim בקור חולים
Thursday, January 8, 2009
A burning issue
Figures show that there are now more homes fitted with smoke alarms than ever before in the UK. Compared with 20 years ago this represents a ten-fold jump in smoke alarm ownership. Menasche Scharf recommends you follow the pattern
There is still much work to do in terms of promoting smoke alarm awareness. Not only are hundreds of thousands of homeowners and tenants exposed to fire hazards without any sort of smoke alarm device installed in their properties, but a significant number of householders who do have alarms fail to maintain their units, or even check that they are working properly.
TYPES
Ionisation alarms are the cheapest and most readily available. They are highly sensitive to smoke particles and will sound the alarm whenever a threshold number of particles enter the unit's ionisation chamber. But be warned - these types of alarms are easily set off by extraneous smoke from cooking. It is therefore best to place any ionisation alarm that you have well away from the kitchen area, otherwise you may find yourself constantly wafting a tea towel at it!
Optical smoke alarms are the alternative. These units sense fire by using an infrared emitting diode and photo diode to detect smoke particles entering the diode housing chamber. When the light beams are broken the alarm sounds. For smouldering fires, such as those that involve the burning of foam-filled furniture, optical smoke alarms are the best. They can pick up on these sorts of fires much more quickly than an ionisation unit can.
Fire safety officers actually recommend that both types of alarm be installed in your property. But, if you can't afford both, one alarm is better than none!
When making your choice you should also consider the volume of the alarm. All alarms have a a decibel (dBA) rating. This generally ranges from 55dBA (quietest) to 90dBA (loudest). In a normal situation where the alarm is needed to wake healthy adults from a deep sleep at 4am, an alarm of 55dBA to 65dBA will do the job. But, if you are hard of hearing a louder alarm is recommended. Just to be sure that your smoke alarm will wake you from a deep sleep it is worth testing it out in your own home. You could have someone set off the alarm during the night to see if or how quickly you wake up. If you sleep through the noise, you need a louder alarm!
POSITIONING
As smoke always rises a smoke alarm performs best if it is secured to the ceiling. Ideally, you should have at least one smoke alarm per floor of your property. These should be located in common access areas, such as on your landing and hallway or at the foot of your stairs.
For total peace of mind it is worth considering positioning a smoke alarm in every room where there is a large electrical appliance. This includes lounge areas and bedrooms. Once installed, check your smoke alarms on a regular basis. Use the 'test' button on the alarm unit to make sure it is in good working order every week; change the battery every year, and replace the units completely at least once every ten years. If you have the decorators in, do make a special effort to check your alarm after they've gone. If there's been dust flying about they might have removed the battery to stop it constantly going off.
Remember - a smoke alarm is only of any use if it actually works!
There is still much work to do in terms of promoting smoke alarm awareness. Not only are hundreds of thousands of homeowners and tenants exposed to fire hazards without any sort of smoke alarm device installed in their properties, but a significant number of householders who do have alarms fail to maintain their units, or even check that they are working properly.
TYPES
Ionisation alarms are the cheapest and most readily available. They are highly sensitive to smoke particles and will sound the alarm whenever a threshold number of particles enter the unit's ionisation chamber. But be warned - these types of alarms are easily set off by extraneous smoke from cooking. It is therefore best to place any ionisation alarm that you have well away from the kitchen area, otherwise you may find yourself constantly wafting a tea towel at it!
Optical smoke alarms are the alternative. These units sense fire by using an infrared emitting diode and photo diode to detect smoke particles entering the diode housing chamber. When the light beams are broken the alarm sounds. For smouldering fires, such as those that involve the burning of foam-filled furniture, optical smoke alarms are the best. They can pick up on these sorts of fires much more quickly than an ionisation unit can.
Fire safety officers actually recommend that both types of alarm be installed in your property. But, if you can't afford both, one alarm is better than none!
When making your choice you should also consider the volume of the alarm. All alarms have a a decibel (dBA) rating. This generally ranges from 55dBA (quietest) to 90dBA (loudest). In a normal situation where the alarm is needed to wake healthy adults from a deep sleep at 4am, an alarm of 55dBA to 65dBA will do the job. But, if you are hard of hearing a louder alarm is recommended. Just to be sure that your smoke alarm will wake you from a deep sleep it is worth testing it out in your own home. You could have someone set off the alarm during the night to see if or how quickly you wake up. If you sleep through the noise, you need a louder alarm!
POSITIONING
As smoke always rises a smoke alarm performs best if it is secured to the ceiling. Ideally, you should have at least one smoke alarm per floor of your property. These should be located in common access areas, such as on your landing and hallway or at the foot of your stairs.
For total peace of mind it is worth considering positioning a smoke alarm in every room where there is a large electrical appliance. This includes lounge areas and bedrooms. Once installed, check your smoke alarms on a regular basis. Use the 'test' button on the alarm unit to make sure it is in good working order every week; change the battery every year, and replace the units completely at least once every ten years. If you have the decorators in, do make a special effort to check your alarm after they've gone. If there's been dust flying about they might have removed the battery to stop it constantly going off.
Remember - a smoke alarm is only of any use if it actually works!
Friday, August 1, 2008
" Inpestation - What is it?"
With Pesach preparation in full swing, I took the liberty of coining a new term, which will hopefully not stick in your minds for too long.
Pest infestation is a common bane for many, especially if you live in London. It has been reported that there might well be more rodents in the various labyrinths sprawling underneath the city - think of the River Thames, the sewers and the Underground tunnel systems and other sub-terra spaces that Rats call home. The problem really becomes yours when these critters decide to come above ground level and they happen to feel cosy under your floorboards or worse, the well- heated rooms in your house. However much we try to protect ourselves, it takes ingenuity, stamina and endurance to fend off these little invaders and keep them out indefinitely. Those cute broad-tailed Squirrels pose a similar problem with sometimes worse consequences than their thin-tailed cousins. Many houses in the suburbs are damaged by squirrels gnawing through wooden trusses, beams and floorboards in the upper floors. Both of these species are notorious for amongst others chewing the rubber insulation of electrical cables, which sadly ends in their demise. A common side effect could lead to broken leads, severing your power supply. Pigeons and other city-dwelling birds may contribute to filthy window sills and windscreens, contamination of water tanks and may also cause gradual degradation of the paintwork if exposed to droppings. So, what makes you think that you have one or more of those unwanted visitors squatting above or beneath you? Usually you will find an increase in tourist traffic when a building project gets underway in the vicinity of your home. Rats and mice like the peace and quiet afforded by built-up areas; once the power tools cause vibrations, they will come out of their holes looking for more pastoral pastures. Remember: if you've seen a delivery of a pallet of building bricks, you may well expect a marked increase of Rodential visits.... Prevention is paramount if you want to save money, anguish and neighbourly
relations: to be protected means to be prepared.
Rule 1. When you see a rat, keep cool, even when you feel like panicking - you will achieve next to nothing.
Rule 2. Always sweep up after a meal, ensure toddlers have only food that don't crumble and keep fruit and vegetables in strong enclosures.
Failing to follow up on this vital housekeeping is like putting out a sign (in rat language) saying: Welcome!
Rule 3. Using one of the following won't solve the problem: Sticky Pads, Traps, Poison and the like will not address the root of the problem. If I may use the Talmud's saying and apply it to our case in hand : לאו עכברא גנב אלא חורא גנב Lav Achbara Ganev Elo Chore Ganev (lit. the mouse isn't the thief, only the hole): Find out where it came from; only follow the following instructions if you really want to solve your problem: get down on all fours and 'walk' around the perimeters of the rooms on the ground floor, this way you might feel a slight breeze coming your way. You can find more openings by checking the air vents in the lower part of your window bays, where grilles may be broken or bent. These could just be the direction from where the rat comes in as it will always be looking for an exit towards the upper parts, which is your ground floor.
Rule 4. Once you identify all possible entrance avenues, use steel chicken wire - they can easily chew through plain metal ones - and affix it to the openings. This way your house can still benefit from the airflow that is provided by the vents yet it will prevent unwanted guests from paying you a visit. Similarly, install bird guards to prevent them from landing on the surfaces around your house.
Rule 5. If you find some of the openings unnecessary and you want to block them off, don't use plain cement; rats can work their way through it quite easily and mice find cement nice. Just add glass: break a glass container to bits and mix it with the cement, then block the hole with the mixture. Be careful when working with this potion as - remember? - it contains glass shards. Once a rat gets its teeth bloody on the glass, it will go away looking for an easier target and hey, the SPCA doesn't work underground...
Rule 6. Whilst it is deplorable that these creatures are at times so revolting, do take youngsters to a wildlife park, a zoo or farm. This will ensure they grow up knowing that these critters exists in real life too, not just in story books...
Rule 7. Last but not least: With the upcoming Purim Yom Tov, please be mindful of people whom even a Rabbit costume gives them the shivers; tell the kids to at least take off their hoods when knocking on people's doors.
Pest infestation is a common bane for many, especially if you live in London. It has been reported that there might well be more rodents in the various labyrinths sprawling underneath the city - think of the River Thames, the sewers and the Underground tunnel systems and other sub-terra spaces that Rats call home. The problem really becomes yours when these critters decide to come above ground level and they happen to feel cosy under your floorboards or worse, the well- heated rooms in your house. However much we try to protect ourselves, it takes ingenuity, stamina and endurance to fend off these little invaders and keep them out indefinitely. Those cute broad-tailed Squirrels pose a similar problem with sometimes worse consequences than their thin-tailed cousins. Many houses in the suburbs are damaged by squirrels gnawing through wooden trusses, beams and floorboards in the upper floors. Both of these species are notorious for amongst others chewing the rubber insulation of electrical cables, which sadly ends in their demise. A common side effect could lead to broken leads, severing your power supply. Pigeons and other city-dwelling birds may contribute to filthy window sills and windscreens, contamination of water tanks and may also cause gradual degradation of the paintwork if exposed to droppings. So, what makes you think that you have one or more of those unwanted visitors squatting above or beneath you? Usually you will find an increase in tourist traffic when a building project gets underway in the vicinity of your home. Rats and mice like the peace and quiet afforded by built-up areas; once the power tools cause vibrations, they will come out of their holes looking for more pastoral pastures. Remember: if you've seen a delivery of a pallet of building bricks, you may well expect a marked increase of Rodential visits.... Prevention is paramount if you want to save money, anguish and neighbourly
relations: to be protected means to be prepared.
Rule 1. When you see a rat, keep cool, even when you feel like panicking - you will achieve next to nothing.
Rule 2. Always sweep up after a meal, ensure toddlers have only food that don't crumble and keep fruit and vegetables in strong enclosures.
Failing to follow up on this vital housekeeping is like putting out a sign (in rat language) saying: Welcome!
Rule 3. Using one of the following won't solve the problem: Sticky Pads, Traps, Poison and the like will not address the root of the problem. If I may use the Talmud's saying and apply it to our case in hand : לאו עכברא גנב אלא חורא גנב Lav Achbara Ganev Elo Chore Ganev (lit. the mouse isn't the thief, only the hole): Find out where it came from; only follow the following instructions if you really want to solve your problem: get down on all fours and 'walk' around the perimeters of the rooms on the ground floor, this way you might feel a slight breeze coming your way. You can find more openings by checking the air vents in the lower part of your window bays, where grilles may be broken or bent. These could just be the direction from where the rat comes in as it will always be looking for an exit towards the upper parts, which is your ground floor.
Rule 4. Once you identify all possible entrance avenues, use steel chicken wire - they can easily chew through plain metal ones - and affix it to the openings. This way your house can still benefit from the airflow that is provided by the vents yet it will prevent unwanted guests from paying you a visit. Similarly, install bird guards to prevent them from landing on the surfaces around your house.
Rule 5. If you find some of the openings unnecessary and you want to block them off, don't use plain cement; rats can work their way through it quite easily and mice find cement nice. Just add glass: break a glass container to bits and mix it with the cement, then block the hole with the mixture. Be careful when working with this potion as - remember? - it contains glass shards. Once a rat gets its teeth bloody on the glass, it will go away looking for an easier target and hey, the SPCA doesn't work underground...
Rule 6. Whilst it is deplorable that these creatures are at times so revolting, do take youngsters to a wildlife park, a zoo or farm. This will ensure they grow up knowing that these critters exists in real life too, not just in story books...
Rule 7. Last but not least: With the upcoming Purim Yom Tov, please be mindful of people whom even a Rabbit costume gives them the shivers; tell the kids to at least take off their hoods when knocking on people's doors.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Watch Out for Radon
Watch Out for Radon
We all know that exposure to a large dose of radiation is not good for your health. But have you considered that everyday in your home and at your place of work radioactive particles are bombarding your body without you even knowing. Menasche Scharf explains.
It is happening right now - and if you live in a part of the country designated by the government as a 'Radon Affected Area' you may very well be storing up health problems for yourself and your family in the future.
Radon is a radioactive gas. It is the by-product of a natural process that sees uranium, which is present in all bedrock and soil, organically decay. The gas reaches us from the ground beneath our feet, generally in low enough amounts so not to cause us harm. Once out in the open air above ground it disperses quickly, and for the majority of us will never be a concern. There are however a few pockets of land across the country - normally where the bedrock is granite or limestone - where radon emissions are much higher. Identified as Radon Affected Areas these hotspot locations, which include the likes of Cornwall, Southwest Devon, parts of the Midlands and Wales, the Lake District and areas of Scotland, see radon emissions readily climb above the national average of 20 becquerels per cubic metre. This in itself is no cause for alarm. What is of concern, however, is the way in which some buildings in Radon Affected Areas pool the gas into high enough concentrations to be considered a health hazard.
Buildings that 'suck'
Radon enters buildings through cracks and gaps in floors and walls. The differential in air pressure between the building's interior and the ground on which it is built sucks the gas into the property. If there is little ventilation the gas is allowed to pool.
In areas where natural radon emission is low, for example in places like Manchester and London, pooling radon rarely results in a problem. Mixing with air, even in poorly ventilated spaces, ensures that the gas never reaches dangerous levels.
But in Radon Affected Areas where emissions are higher the story is very different. Radioactive particles can build in poorly ventilated buildings to the point where occupants exposed to the particles long-term can become three times more likely to contract lung cancer. The Health Protection Agency in fact estimate that some 2,500 lung cancer deaths each year in the UK are caused as a direct result of high level radon exposure.
What can you do about it?
If you're in a high radon emission area, you've every right to be concerned. Thankfully, there is much you can do to alleviate the threat the gas poses. First off, if you are worried about radon levels at your property, you should enlist the services of a radon measurement company. They will be able to test your property's radon levels and help you determine if there is a genuine risk there or not.
If your property is at risk, the most effective way to manage that risk is through better ventilation. To this end you can have an air pump and vents installed at your property that efficiently disperse the gas so that it never becomes an issue. Pumps are not all that expensive to buy, and you just might be eligible for a grant to cover your costs. Contact your local council for more details.
We all know that exposure to a large dose of radiation is not good for your health. But have you considered that everyday in your home and at your place of work radioactive particles are bombarding your body without you even knowing. Menasche Scharf explains.
It is happening right now - and if you live in a part of the country designated by the government as a 'Radon Affected Area' you may very well be storing up health problems for yourself and your family in the future.
Radon is a radioactive gas. It is the by-product of a natural process that sees uranium, which is present in all bedrock and soil, organically decay. The gas reaches us from the ground beneath our feet, generally in low enough amounts so not to cause us harm. Once out in the open air above ground it disperses quickly, and for the majority of us will never be a concern. There are however a few pockets of land across the country - normally where the bedrock is granite or limestone - where radon emissions are much higher. Identified as Radon Affected Areas these hotspot locations, which include the likes of Cornwall, Southwest Devon, parts of the Midlands and Wales, the Lake District and areas of Scotland, see radon emissions readily climb above the national average of 20 becquerels per cubic metre. This in itself is no cause for alarm. What is of concern, however, is the way in which some buildings in Radon Affected Areas pool the gas into high enough concentrations to be considered a health hazard.
Buildings that 'suck'
Radon enters buildings through cracks and gaps in floors and walls. The differential in air pressure between the building's interior and the ground on which it is built sucks the gas into the property. If there is little ventilation the gas is allowed to pool.
In areas where natural radon emission is low, for example in places like Manchester and London, pooling radon rarely results in a problem. Mixing with air, even in poorly ventilated spaces, ensures that the gas never reaches dangerous levels.
But in Radon Affected Areas where emissions are higher the story is very different. Radioactive particles can build in poorly ventilated buildings to the point where occupants exposed to the particles long-term can become three times more likely to contract lung cancer. The Health Protection Agency in fact estimate that some 2,500 lung cancer deaths each year in the UK are caused as a direct result of high level radon exposure.
What can you do about it?
If you're in a high radon emission area, you've every right to be concerned. Thankfully, there is much you can do to alleviate the threat the gas poses. First off, if you are worried about radon levels at your property, you should enlist the services of a radon measurement company. They will be able to test your property's radon levels and help you determine if there is a genuine risk there or not.
If your property is at risk, the most effective way to manage that risk is through better ventilation. To this end you can have an air pump and vents installed at your property that efficiently disperse the gas so that it never becomes an issue. Pumps are not all that expensive to buy, and you just might be eligible for a grant to cover your costs. Contact your local council for more details.
Mould story
Whether your property investment is a little cottage in Grimsby worth a few thousand pounds or a substantial portfolio of commercial and residential properties worth millions, you are a Landlord and will have encountered Landlord Property Insurance. Menasche Scharf takes you through the maze.
Each class of insurance business is underwritten with its own factors and considerations. As Landlord Property Insurance is a different class of business from Homeowner Property Insurance, a standard buildings and contents policy will not suffice for the residential and commercial property landlord.
Over the years the UK property market has flourished and with it the insurers have designed tailor-made policies to meet landlords’ needs.
Landlord Property Insurance is not a legal requirement, but it still makes very good sense for this reason. If a mortgage is to be secured on your investment property, the mortgage offer will include a condition, to have the property insured throughout the term of the mortgage. In fact it is not possible to obtain a mortgage without insurance in place.
Where to purchase your Landlords Property Insurance
You are almost ready to exchange contracts on your investment property and your solicitor asks you to supply buildings insurance, especially, as mentioned above, if the property is to be purchased with a mortgage.
If you are purchasing a simple residential house, as with everything today, you can try buying insurance online. However, this can have disadvantages. Even if your property can be ‘squeezed’ in to the data capture form, after paying, you may end up with a few surprises. On looking at the certificate it may well say that the cover provided is subject to a list of requirements, i.e. specialist security locks, CORGI certified appliances etc. Should the property not meet these requirements you could either cancel and start from square one in obtaining your Landlords Property Insurance or pray that you will not need to claim!
Another disadvantage of buying Landlords Property Insurance online is, you may require mid-term amendments such as changing the name of your mortgagee noted on the certificate. For this you will have to contact the company’s call centre and it can end up being a tedious process.
What if your property is a house divided into 2 or 3 flats, or is not standard build? What if you property is a shop to be let to a retailer? Whereas for example motor insurance information can all be entered on a data capture form on line, every property is different and will not always be able to fit into the standard tick box question form.
This is why Property Insurance Brokers are still in business!
Norwich Union, Zurich, AXA and Royal Sun Alliance are a few of the major players in the insurance property market and most policies including those purchased on line will originate from them. Those sold online will only be appropriate for few. A good broker will understand your needs in a few questions and will usually have you covered instantly, be available for policy amendments and claims assistance.
Your requirements
If you are purchasing or re-mortgaging a new investment, by perusing the mortgage offer and the surveyors report, you will be able to see what level of cover is necessary. Policy renewal will be every 12 months and if you are with the same lender, the requirements stay the same although the sum insured may need to be increased.
If you are looking to insure your investment property but have no offer or surveyors report to refer to, your broker should be able to advise you what cover is available.
What am I insured for?
The best way of understanding what you are covered for is by looking at the insurance policy schedule.
Standard cover will include damage from Fire, Lightning, Aircraft, Earthquake, Malicious Damage, Theft, Storm, Escape of Water or Oil etc. Most policies will extend to ‘all risks’ which includes accidental damage i.e. if you foot goes through a floorboard etc
Amongst other extensions to your cover you can add, (and your mortgagee may well require this) terrorism cover and loss of rent. The latter is in the event of the property being damaged and therefore resulting in the rent not being paid if the property is not fit to be occupied.
Subsidence will usually be included except in some areas. In fact most London postcodes are high risk subsidence areas. In high risk areas, subsidence cover will only be available once a completed questionnaire has been submitted to the insurer.
If you are purchasing a property to refurbish or redevelop, then only FLEA cover will be available (Fire, Lightning, Aircraft and Explosion) and usually at an added premium.
It is always important to inform the broker or insurer of the exact situation with the property, i.e. if it is occupied or not. It may cost more but it’s worth the price, as by providing the wrong information you could end up with no cover at all.
In all cases you will be covered for public liability. This can be for anything from £2, million to £10million and will cover you for all liability to anyone or anything that could be damaged from your property, including damage to tenants.
If you own and insure for example, a block of flats and have your maintenance workers on site, it will be necessary to add on to your policy Employers Liability.
Even though your property will be occupied by tenants, especially in the case of residential properties, you possibly will have your own furnishings in the property which you may want to insure. This can be added under Landlords Contents Insurance.
Sum Insured
It costs pretty much the same to build a house in London as it does up North. So although market prices are sky high in the Capital, rebuild sums are not. Hence, when it comes to insuring, you are looking for the reinstatement value also known as the ‘declared value’. This figure can be found in the surveyors report.
The good insurers add on to the declared value 25 -50% included in the premium paid, just in case you have underinsured. This is why you will notice two figures on the schedule, the declared value and the sum insured.
We can see Landlords Property Insurance is a completely different product from Homeowners Property Insurance. The option for terrorism cover, loss of rent and employers liability cover are a few visible differences. Aside from this, let property is a different class of insurance altogether, presenting to the insurance underwriters different risks and therefore requires specialist Landlords Property Insurance.
Of course you should shop around for a good quote but also check that you are getting the best cover. As a landlord you deserve the best!
Ensure you’re insured
Whether your property investment is a little cottage in Grimsby worth a few thousand pounds or a substantial portfolio of commercial and residential properties worth millions, you are a Landlord and will have encountered Landlord Property Insurance. Menasche Scharf takes you through the maze.
Each class of insurance business is underwritten with its own factors and considerations. As Landlord Property Insurance is a different class of business from Homeowner Property Insurance, a standard buildings and contents policy will not suffice for the residential and commercial property landlord.
Over the years the UK property market has flourished and with it the insurers have designed tailor-made policies to meet landlords’ needs.
Landlord Property Insurance is not a legal requirement, but it still makes very good sense for this reason. If a mortgage is to be secured on your investment property, the mortgage offer will include a condition, to have the property insured throughout the term of the mortgage. In fact it is not possible to obtain a mortgage without insurance in place.
Where to purchase your Landlords Property Insurance
You are almost ready to exchange contracts on your investment property and your solicitor asks you to supply buildings insurance, especially, as mentioned above, if the property is to be purchased with a mortgage.
If you are purchasing a simple residential house, as with everything today, you can try buying insurance online. However, this can have disadvantages. Even if your property can be ‘squeezed’ in to the data capture form, after paying, you may end up with a few surprises. On looking at the certificate it may well say that the cover provided is subject to a list of requirements, i.e. specialist security locks, CORGI certified appliances etc. Should the property not meet these requirements you could either cancel and start from square one in obtaining your Landlords Property Insurance or pray that you will not need to claim!
Another disadvantage of buying Landlords Property Insurance online is, you may require mid-term amendments such as changing the name of your mortgagee noted on the certificate. For this you will have to contact the company’s call centre and it can end up being a tedious process.
What if your property is a house divided into 2 or 3 flats, or is not standard build? What if you property is a shop to be let to a retailer? Whereas for example motor insurance information can all be entered on a data capture form on line, every property is different and will not always be able to fit into the standard tick box question form.
This is why Property Insurance Brokers are still in business!
Norwich Union, Zurich, AXA and Royal Sun Alliance are a few of the major players in the insurance property market and most policies including those purchased on line will originate from them. Those sold online will only be appropriate for few. A good broker will understand your needs in a few questions and will usually have you covered instantly, be available for policy amendments and claims assistance.
Your requirements
If you are purchasing or re-mortgaging a new investment, by perusing the mortgage offer and the surveyors report, you will be able to see what level of cover is necessary. Policy renewal will be every 12 months and if you are with the same lender, the requirements stay the same although the sum insured may need to be increased.
If you are looking to insure your investment property but have no offer or surveyors report to refer to, your broker should be able to advise you what cover is available.
What am I insured for?
The best way of understanding what you are covered for is by looking at the insurance policy schedule.
Standard cover will include damage from Fire, Lightning, Aircraft, Earthquake, Malicious Damage, Theft, Storm, Escape of Water or Oil etc. Most policies will extend to ‘all risks’ which includes accidental damage i.e. if you foot goes through a floorboard etc
Amongst other extensions to your cover you can add, (and your mortgagee may well require this) terrorism cover and loss of rent. The latter is in the event of the property being damaged and therefore resulting in the rent not being paid if the property is not fit to be occupied.
Subsidence will usually be included except in some areas. In fact most London postcodes are high risk subsidence areas. In high risk areas, subsidence cover will only be available once a completed questionnaire has been submitted to the insurer.
If you are purchasing a property to refurbish or redevelop, then only FLEA cover will be available (Fire, Lightning, Aircraft and Explosion) and usually at an added premium.
It is always important to inform the broker or insurer of the exact situation with the property, i.e. if it is occupied or not. It may cost more but it’s worth the price, as by providing the wrong information you could end up with no cover at all.
In all cases you will be covered for public liability. This can be for anything from £2, million to £10million and will cover you for all liability to anyone or anything that could be damaged from your property, including damage to tenants.
If you own and insure for example, a block of flats and have your maintenance workers on site, it will be necessary to add on to your policy Employers Liability.
Even though your property will be occupied by tenants, especially in the case of residential properties, you possibly will have your own furnishings in the property which you may want to insure. This can be added under Landlords Contents Insurance.
Sum Insured
It costs pretty much the same to build a house in London as it does up North. So although market prices are sky high in the Capital, rebuild sums are not. Hence, when it comes to insuring, you are looking for the reinstatement value also known as the ‘declared value’. This figure can be found in the surveyors report.
The good insurers add on to the declared value 25 -50% included in the premium paid, just in case you have underinsured. This is why you will notice two figures on the schedule, the declared value and the sum insured.
We can see Landlords Property Insurance is a completely different product from Homeowners Property Insurance. The option for terrorism cover, loss of rent and employers liability cover are a few visible differences. Aside from this, let property is a different class of insurance altogether, presenting to the insurance underwriters different risks and therefore requires specialist Landlords Property Insurance.
Of course you should shop around for a good quote but also check that you are getting the best cover. As a landlord you deserve the best!
Damp-the inside view 1
Menasche Scharf takes us on a tour of the house to check for damp
In my article “Damp Dangers” I outlined the effects of a damp environment on our health. Here, the focus switches to the building structure itself. When buildings suffer damp, either by way of rainwater penetration or through rising damp from the ground, the materials the structure is comprised of may become compromised. This damage may show itself both externally and internally. In the very worst of cases it could cause the property to become unstable and therefore dangerous to live in.
External damp damage
As most damp problems originate from outside the building, damage to external walls tends to become evident before any effects are detected internally. Usually, damp penetrates through defective brickwork, pointing and stonework. If brick faces are decayed because of long-term exposure to the elements, they will allow moisture to enter the brickwork and take up residence in the property's structure. As well as the obvious entry points for moisture in the walls -- i.e. cracked or broken bricks / stones / render -- look out, too, for rebated mortar joints; blown, cracked and shelled brick faces, and algae attaching itself to the surface of brickwork. These are all sure-fire signs that moisture is entering the property structure.
Once inside the walls moisture begins to eat away at the integrity of the structure. Freeze-thaw of moisture in the winter is a particular problem as water expands in volume when frozen. Repeated freeze-thaw systematically destroys external walls, widening the gaps in which moisture can enter the building, so helping the damp to drive inwards to internal walls.
Internal damp problems
The first sign of damp trouble inside a property is normally found on the inside of westerly and southerly facing external walls - in our parts of the world, which is in the Northern hemisphere. Rainwater driven in from outside penetrates to the inner wall, often breaking down plaster into cracks and flakes and allowing mould to develop on the internal wall surface. When this happens you know you've got a problem!
High humidity coupled with poor ventilation promotes mould growth in damp areas of a property. In the winter, when the room temperature is high, particularly in smaller rooms or spaces that do not have windows to allow fresh air flow, mould takes hold quickly, discolouring and damaging the surface on which it grows. Remember: fungus likes damp, dark places where it can grow safely, as exposure to air for long periods means it cannot dry out easily.
In my article “Damp Dangers” I outlined the effects of a damp environment on our health. Here, the focus switches to the building structure itself. When buildings suffer damp, either by way of rainwater penetration or through rising damp from the ground, the materials the structure is comprised of may become compromised. This damage may show itself both externally and internally. In the very worst of cases it could cause the property to become unstable and therefore dangerous to live in.
External damp damage
As most damp problems originate from outside the building, damage to external walls tends to become evident before any effects are detected internally. Usually, damp penetrates through defective brickwork, pointing and stonework. If brick faces are decayed because of long-term exposure to the elements, they will allow moisture to enter the brickwork and take up residence in the property's structure. As well as the obvious entry points for moisture in the walls -- i.e. cracked or broken bricks / stones / render -- look out, too, for rebated mortar joints; blown, cracked and shelled brick faces, and algae attaching itself to the surface of brickwork. These are all sure-fire signs that moisture is entering the property structure.
Once inside the walls moisture begins to eat away at the integrity of the structure. Freeze-thaw of moisture in the winter is a particular problem as water expands in volume when frozen. Repeated freeze-thaw systematically destroys external walls, widening the gaps in which moisture can enter the building, so helping the damp to drive inwards to internal walls.
Internal damp problems
The first sign of damp trouble inside a property is normally found on the inside of westerly and southerly facing external walls - in our parts of the world, which is in the Northern hemisphere. Rainwater driven in from outside penetrates to the inner wall, often breaking down plaster into cracks and flakes and allowing mould to develop on the internal wall surface. When this happens you know you've got a problem!
High humidity coupled with poor ventilation promotes mould growth in damp areas of a property. In the winter, when the room temperature is high, particularly in smaller rooms or spaces that do not have windows to allow fresh air flow, mould takes hold quickly, discolouring and damaging the surface on which it grows. Remember: fungus likes damp, dark places where it can grow safely, as exposure to air for long periods means it cannot dry out easily.
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