Home Information Packs (HIPs) became mandatory on August 1st. Menasche Scharf explains what they mean to vendors.
Vendors advertising properties for sale with four or more bedrooms must now commission a HIP to accompany their property to the market. Come September 10th the same regulations will apply to three bedroom homes in England and Wales. If you are planning on selling your property soon you'll need to get familiar with HIPs - and importantly, how improving the safety of your property for a visit by the Home Inspector can help you make it more attractive to buyers.
It is the seller's responsibility to arrange a HIP for their property when they advertise it for sale. In practice, vendors can enlist the services of their estate agent to make the arrangements on their behalf. Alternatively, the property vendor can order their HIP through a specialist HIP provider, or through their solicitor.
The idea behind HIPs is to make the process of buying and selling property easier and more transparent. With this in mind the government has outlined a number of compulsory and optional documents that are to be contained in the Home Information Pack.
Briefly these are…
Statement of Sale
Evidence of Title including Title Plan
Property and Land Searches
Lease Documentation (if leasehold)
Energy Performance Certificate (EPC)
Optional documents are…
Home Condition Report
Guarantees and Warranties
Fixtures and Fittings List
The HIP provider will compile all relevant information as required and requested into the Home Information Pack. It is they who will liaise with the solicitor or conveyancer for search information, and it is they who will organise a qualified Home Inspector to visit your property to perform an Energy Assessment and to produce the Home Condition Report if needed.
The Energy Performance Certificate is a central document in the HIP. It is an energy audit of your property to assess its energy efficiency, and to determine how cost effective the property is to run. The EPC will grade your property on a sliding scale between band 'A' and band 'G'. Band 'A' ratings denote high-energy efficiency and low running costs. Band 'G' ratings show the property to be poor on energy efficiency and costly to run.
The Home Condition Report is much more familiar. It is a physical inspection of the property - a form of basic survey if you will. This report is included in the HIP on a voluntary basis by the seller and will highlight any health and safety concerns at the property.
As the EPC and Home Condition Report rely on the visit of a Home Inspector to the property, vendors have an opportunity to make some improvements to the property ahead the visit - improvements that could make the property safer, more energy efficient and thus more attractive to potential buyers from the start.
On the energy front for example, you could look at the safety aspects of your boiler. An old boiler, especially if not regularly serviced, could be a threat to your health. Parts might have corroded leaving the boiler dangerous and certainly inefficient to run. By replacing the boiler with a new high-efficiency condensing boiler, you'll not only make your property safer but you'll get full marks from the Home Inspector too.
If you've opted for the Home Condition Report have a think about health and safety issues at your property. Are slates and tiles loose on your roof? Is the chimney stack in need of some attention? Is your guttering secure, or do you have damp areas on internal walls and ceilings? If you can identify these potential safety hazards and take action to correct them, that Home Condition Report in your HIP will have buyers falling over themselves to buy your property!
Bikur Cholim בקור חולים
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Damp course
Last summer, some parts of the UK suffered the worst summer flooding in living memory. The impact of that disaster is still with us, says Menasche Scharf
The media flooded us with news flashes, about homes being deluged and their inhabitants suffering from the chaos and destruction that an extensive period of rain caused. What was not so obvious from the media reports were the dangers that residents faced when they returned to their properties after the micro-Mabul - dangers that could quite easily result in serious injuries or even death.
How to proceed
You may recall our article in July about dealing with the flooding – we will now concentrate on the finer details. When returning to the affected property, ensure the guidelines below are taken into account, in doing so you will be safe in the knowledge that the right precautions have been taken.
Structural Damage
There might be structural defects that were caused by the strong currents or prolonged immersion in water. Examples of this could be: rotten staircases, rusty pipes, and mouldy floorboards.. Indeed, you should also be wary of possible ‘squatters’ who decide to make your home theirs: rats, mice and other creatures will find a home devoid of its inhabitants but well-stocked with food staples a virtual Garden of Eden and will not happily vacate their new found territory.
Be careful with electricity
Water and electricity do not mix. If the mains electricity was not switched off prior to the flood, there could be live electricity hazards to contend with when returning to the property.
Any room in the property where floodwater is still submerging electrical sockets should be avoided - the floodwater may be energised by the electrical current. Only enter the flooded room when it is safe to do so - i.e. when the power is cut or when the water has completely subsided.
Even if the mains electricity was turned off, be aware that electrical wiring and appliances could have been damaged by the floodwater. Therefore, before switching back on the supply, you should arrange to have wiring inspected and appliances tested.
Similarly, the gas appliances – once filled with water – could well become defective or even dangerous. You would act prudently by calling in a gas engineer to check it out before switching them on.
Sewage and contamination
Floodwater is never clean. If your local authority pumps waste water from sewers through the same storm drain system as run-off rainwater from the street, floodwater entering your property will most likely be contaminated with raw sewage. Pesticide and chemical contaminants may also be present. If they are your local water authority and the Environment Agency will alert your community to this issue. Should the source of flooding be a river or other watercourse, there is a high probability that the water will contain waterborne diseases as well, such as Weil's Disease.
To avoid infection and health issues arising from sewage and other floodwater contaminants, appropriate clothing should be worn. Rubber gloves are recommended when handling infected items, and if wading through floodwater, goggles should be used to protect the eyes from water splashes.
Notes for landlords
It is your responsibility to ensure that your rental property is assessed as safe for tenants to re-enter after a flood. You should therefore liaise with the local authorities and the emergency services for advice on when it is safe to return to the property. You should also arrange for clear-up and drying operations in the property and for the inspection of electrical and gas installations so they are passed as safe to use again.
The use of dehumidifiers – an appliance that reduces the level of humidity in the air – could speed up the drying process, in addition to preventing various health risks, as humid air can cause mould and mildew to grow inside homes.
In rental properties, you – the landlord- are responsible for these inspections after a flood. Employ the services of a qualified person for this task. Appliance testing comes under the remit of the landlord too where appliances in the property were supplied by you for the tenant's use. If the appliances are supplied / owned by the tenant then it is down to the tenant to arrange for those appliances that were affected by the floodwater to be tested.
Repairs may need to be carried out to flood-damaged areas. For example, carpets may need replacing, walls may need replastering and redecorating. Depending upon the terms of your agreement with the tenant, you may need to find the tenant alternative temporary accommodation during the clean-up and repair process.
Remember, floodwaters are dangerous. Only re-enter your property when the local authority and emergency services recommend that it is safe to do so.
The media flooded us with news flashes, about homes being deluged and their inhabitants suffering from the chaos and destruction that an extensive period of rain caused. What was not so obvious from the media reports were the dangers that residents faced when they returned to their properties after the micro-Mabul - dangers that could quite easily result in serious injuries or even death.
How to proceed
You may recall our article in July about dealing with the flooding – we will now concentrate on the finer details. When returning to the affected property, ensure the guidelines below are taken into account, in doing so you will be safe in the knowledge that the right precautions have been taken.
Structural Damage
There might be structural defects that were caused by the strong currents or prolonged immersion in water. Examples of this could be: rotten staircases, rusty pipes, and mouldy floorboards.. Indeed, you should also be wary of possible ‘squatters’ who decide to make your home theirs: rats, mice and other creatures will find a home devoid of its inhabitants but well-stocked with food staples a virtual Garden of Eden and will not happily vacate their new found territory.
Be careful with electricity
Water and electricity do not mix. If the mains electricity was not switched off prior to the flood, there could be live electricity hazards to contend with when returning to the property.
Any room in the property where floodwater is still submerging electrical sockets should be avoided - the floodwater may be energised by the electrical current. Only enter the flooded room when it is safe to do so - i.e. when the power is cut or when the water has completely subsided.
Even if the mains electricity was turned off, be aware that electrical wiring and appliances could have been damaged by the floodwater. Therefore, before switching back on the supply, you should arrange to have wiring inspected and appliances tested.
Similarly, the gas appliances – once filled with water – could well become defective or even dangerous. You would act prudently by calling in a gas engineer to check it out before switching them on.
Sewage and contamination
Floodwater is never clean. If your local authority pumps waste water from sewers through the same storm drain system as run-off rainwater from the street, floodwater entering your property will most likely be contaminated with raw sewage. Pesticide and chemical contaminants may also be present. If they are your local water authority and the Environment Agency will alert your community to this issue. Should the source of flooding be a river or other watercourse, there is a high probability that the water will contain waterborne diseases as well, such as Weil's Disease.
To avoid infection and health issues arising from sewage and other floodwater contaminants, appropriate clothing should be worn. Rubber gloves are recommended when handling infected items, and if wading through floodwater, goggles should be used to protect the eyes from water splashes.
Notes for landlords
It is your responsibility to ensure that your rental property is assessed as safe for tenants to re-enter after a flood. You should therefore liaise with the local authorities and the emergency services for advice on when it is safe to return to the property. You should also arrange for clear-up and drying operations in the property and for the inspection of electrical and gas installations so they are passed as safe to use again.
The use of dehumidifiers – an appliance that reduces the level of humidity in the air – could speed up the drying process, in addition to preventing various health risks, as humid air can cause mould and mildew to grow inside homes.
In rental properties, you – the landlord- are responsible for these inspections after a flood. Employ the services of a qualified person for this task. Appliance testing comes under the remit of the landlord too where appliances in the property were supplied by you for the tenant's use. If the appliances are supplied / owned by the tenant then it is down to the tenant to arrange for those appliances that were affected by the floodwater to be tested.
Repairs may need to be carried out to flood-damaged areas. For example, carpets may need replacing, walls may need replastering and redecorating. Depending upon the terms of your agreement with the tenant, you may need to find the tenant alternative temporary accommodation during the clean-up and repair process.
Remember, floodwaters are dangerous. Only re-enter your property when the local authority and emergency services recommend that it is safe to do so.
No guessing with gas
Natural gas for heating and cooking is a fuel that is often perceived as a cheap alternative to electricity. Some even prefer to use it instead of electricity. But for all the convenience it brings, we should remember that gas has a deadly side to it, says Menashe Scharf
Not only can gas bring about carbon monoxide poisoning as a result of appliances not burning their fuel efficiently, but a build up of gas can also cause an explosion due to its high level of flammability. Great care must therefore be taken in installing and maintaining gas appliances, and also in their use.
In the home
The Health and Safety Executive recommend that domestic gas appliances in the home be checked for their continued safety once every 12 months. Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, only Council of Register Gas Installers (CORGI) engineers are allowed to service and maintain gas appliances. In fact it is now illegal for an unqualified person to interfere with the gas supply into a property, or work on or install a gas appliance. Anyone installing a gas cooker for example must be CORGI-Registered. Homeowners with knowledge of gas appliance installations could disconnect and/or reconnect bayonet fittings if they wanted to - for the latest rules governing this please refer to the 1998 Regulations and updates provided by the Health and Safety Executive. But the law states that a CORGI-Registered engineer MUST be the person who connects the hose / appliance to the gas supply.
In rented property
Renting out property in the UK requires that landlords adhere to a mass of laws to ensure the safety of their tenants. Among them is the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998. Under this umbrella of legislation landlords must:
Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for installation of new gas appliances, pipe work and flues -- the flues being the pipes and vents that remove burnt gas from appliances and out of the house.
Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for maintenance of gas appliances, pipe work and flues (as above).
Arrange for annual gas safety checks at the rented property every 12 months. Checks are to be performed by a CORGI-Registered engineer. If gas installations are passed as safe the engineer will issue a Gas Safety Certificate. Should repair work be necessary, the landlord MUST (by law) enlist the services of a CORGI-Registered engineer to carry out the repair work.
Keep records of safety checks for a minimum of two years.
Provide a copy of the Gas Safety Certificate to existing tenants in the property within 28 days of issue by the engineer. For new tenants a copy of the current Gas Safety Certificate must be supplied at the beginning of the tenancy.
For landlords the requirements may seem like a lot of red tape, and just a further expense in running a rental property. However, the Regulations are there for a reason -- to save lives.
Safety checks
In September 2005 52-year old Charles Cook from the Middleton area of Greater Manchester suffered serious burns after a gas explosion at his home in the early hours of the morning. The blast, thought to have been caused by a gas leak, destroyed the property and damaged neighbouring houses. Mr Cook was taken to hospital and spent time in intensive care to recover from the ordeal. Sadly, Mr Cook's experience is repeated all too often in homes around the country where regular safety checks on gas appliances have been absent. In some cases the blasts are fatal resulting in a tragic loss of life from situations that might have been avoided had safety checks been implemented.
What to do if you smell gas
While gas safety checks are designed to keep you safe long-term, there is still the chance that a gas appliance might malfunction, or that a gas leak develops in the pipe work between annual safety checks. If you smell gas, this is what you need to do:
Call the National Grid's Gas Emergency number immediately. It is a freephone number -- 0800 111 999
Open all doors and windows to help gas escape. DO NOT use light switches or handle a naked flame. Both could ignite the gas.
Shut off the gas supply. This is done at the meter cupboard by operating the shut-off valve. For your peace of mind and for your safety it is a good idea to locate and practice operating the shut off valve. By doing so you'll have practical experience to call on in the event of a real life gas emergency.
CORGI
CORGI started life as a voluntary organisation in 1970 following a gas cooker explosion in a block of flats in London that caused part of the building to collapse. Some 4,000 gas operatives joined the scheme initially, and by 1991 it became a statutory requirement for anyone working with gas to gain CORGI registration. Today CORGI has some 110,000 engineers operating in the UK. Their work is regulated in the field by CORGI inspectors, each CORGI engineer being required to prove their competence with gas once every five years.
Not only can gas bring about carbon monoxide poisoning as a result of appliances not burning their fuel efficiently, but a build up of gas can also cause an explosion due to its high level of flammability. Great care must therefore be taken in installing and maintaining gas appliances, and also in their use.
In the home
The Health and Safety Executive recommend that domestic gas appliances in the home be checked for their continued safety once every 12 months. Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, only Council of Register Gas Installers (CORGI) engineers are allowed to service and maintain gas appliances. In fact it is now illegal for an unqualified person to interfere with the gas supply into a property, or work on or install a gas appliance. Anyone installing a gas cooker for example must be CORGI-Registered. Homeowners with knowledge of gas appliance installations could disconnect and/or reconnect bayonet fittings if they wanted to - for the latest rules governing this please refer to the 1998 Regulations and updates provided by the Health and Safety Executive. But the law states that a CORGI-Registered engineer MUST be the person who connects the hose / appliance to the gas supply.
In rented property
Renting out property in the UK requires that landlords adhere to a mass of laws to ensure the safety of their tenants. Among them is the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998. Under this umbrella of legislation landlords must:
Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for installation of new gas appliances, pipe work and flues -- the flues being the pipes and vents that remove burnt gas from appliances and out of the house.
Use a CORGI-Registered engineer for maintenance of gas appliances, pipe work and flues (as above).
Arrange for annual gas safety checks at the rented property every 12 months. Checks are to be performed by a CORGI-Registered engineer. If gas installations are passed as safe the engineer will issue a Gas Safety Certificate. Should repair work be necessary, the landlord MUST (by law) enlist the services of a CORGI-Registered engineer to carry out the repair work.
Keep records of safety checks for a minimum of two years.
Provide a copy of the Gas Safety Certificate to existing tenants in the property within 28 days of issue by the engineer. For new tenants a copy of the current Gas Safety Certificate must be supplied at the beginning of the tenancy.
For landlords the requirements may seem like a lot of red tape, and just a further expense in running a rental property. However, the Regulations are there for a reason -- to save lives.
Safety checks
In September 2005 52-year old Charles Cook from the Middleton area of Greater Manchester suffered serious burns after a gas explosion at his home in the early hours of the morning. The blast, thought to have been caused by a gas leak, destroyed the property and damaged neighbouring houses. Mr Cook was taken to hospital and spent time in intensive care to recover from the ordeal. Sadly, Mr Cook's experience is repeated all too often in homes around the country where regular safety checks on gas appliances have been absent. In some cases the blasts are fatal resulting in a tragic loss of life from situations that might have been avoided had safety checks been implemented.
What to do if you smell gas
While gas safety checks are designed to keep you safe long-term, there is still the chance that a gas appliance might malfunction, or that a gas leak develops in the pipe work between annual safety checks. If you smell gas, this is what you need to do:
Call the National Grid's Gas Emergency number immediately. It is a freephone number -- 0800 111 999
Open all doors and windows to help gas escape. DO NOT use light switches or handle a naked flame. Both could ignite the gas.
Shut off the gas supply. This is done at the meter cupboard by operating the shut-off valve. For your peace of mind and for your safety it is a good idea to locate and practice operating the shut off valve. By doing so you'll have practical experience to call on in the event of a real life gas emergency.
CORGI
CORGI started life as a voluntary organisation in 1970 following a gas cooker explosion in a block of flats in London that caused part of the building to collapse. Some 4,000 gas operatives joined the scheme initially, and by 1991 it became a statutory requirement for anyone working with gas to gain CORGI registration. Today CORGI has some 110,000 engineers operating in the UK. Their work is regulated in the field by CORGI inspectors, each CORGI engineer being required to prove their competence with gas once every five years.
Legionnaire's Disease and your Property
Reports surfacing about a new outbreak of legionnaire's disease appear from time to time.
But how serious should they be taken? Menasche Scharf suggests very seriously
The reports normally follow a pattern. They tell of people being taken ill at a public place, such as at a swimming pool or in an air conditioned building, and of investigators having identified high concentrations of the legionella bacteria in the property's water system as being the cause. In the most severe cases the outbreak becomes fatal, lives being lost as a result of the property owner not taking sufficient precautions to assess and control the risk. But what is less well-publicised is the fact that the legionella bacteria is often present in all natural and manmade water systems, domestic hot and cold water systems included. In small concentrations the bacteria is harmless. Let it accumulate though and you could find yourself dealing with an outbreak of legionnaire's disease in your own home!
What is legionnaire's disease?
Named after a severe outbreak of illness at a meeting of the American Legion in 1976, legionnaire's disease is a potentially lethal form of pneumonia. It is caused by the inhalation of water droplets / moisture from water sources containing high amounts of the legionella bacteria. Not everyone who inhales moisture laden with the bacteria contracts the disease. Fit and healthy people with strong immune systems, especially those younger than 20 years of age, are very unlikely to have a problem. Males over the age of 45 are most at risk. If the victim is a smoker and/or a heavy drinker, or if the person exposed to the bacteria suffers from respiratory illnesses or has an impaired immune system, the chances of catching legionnaire's disease is that much higher.
The symptoms
Self-diagnosis of legionnaire's disease is not easy. The symptoms are very similar to common flu. Look out for…
Fever and high temperature
Chills
Muscle pains
Cough
Diarrhoea
Pneumonia
Mental confusion
The easiest way to determine if you have legionnaire's disease is to visit your doctor. They can prescribe a test to help identify the disease. If the disease is circulating in your community your doctor will be aware of this too - a factor that could aid in your diagnosis.
Legionnaire risk assessment and solutions
Legionnaire's disease is caught only from water sources containing high levels of the legionella bacteria. A build up of the bacteria happens over time in water that stagnates. Optimum conditions for development are when the temperature of the water is consistently between 20°c and 45°c, and where there is rust, sludge or organic material present in the system. Very quickly, over a matter of months, legionella can multiply to a dangerously high concentration.
While it is true that blocks of flats, office buildings and other large-scale premises, where water has a greater opportunity to stagnate, are most at risk of harbouring the legionella bacteria, on rare occasions it can be problematic in residential property. The question you have to ask yourself then is: are you and your family at risk in your own home? If the domestic hot and cold water systems are in almost constant use it is unlikely that the water will remain stagnant enough for the bacteria really to get any sort of a foothold. However, if there are baths, showers and taps in rooms that are rarely used there is an opportunity for the bacteria to grow in the pipes where the water is not moving. If you leave your home unoccupied for several months, again there is a risk that the bacteria could build up in your water system. Redundant pipe work (deadlegs), such as a pipe to a washing machine that is no longer in use, is another environment for the bacteria to grow - especially if there is debris in the system, this being the bacteria's 'food'.
So what should you do if you think that your water system is at risk? Well, unfortunately, there's no alarm system available yet to alert you to a build up of the bacteria. It's therefore down to you to take preventative action. First, consider regularly flushing your water system through - i.e. open all taps and water outlets and let the water run for a few minutes. Also, look to remove any redundant pipe work and clean the system so it is free from debris. Replacing old steel and lead pipes with modern copper alternatives can help reduce the risk too, as can regularly bleeding your radiators. Another precautionary measure is to periodically increase the temperature of your hot water tank to 60°c or above for a few days at a time: the bacteria is unable to survive in water above this temperature. Finally, if you are worried that your water system is already infected, you can use a chlorine disinfectant to cleanse it. Should you opt for this course of action do flush the system through thoroughly before recommencing normal use.
Renting your home?
In a recent change to government legislation providers of residential accommodation are now fully responsible for protecting their tenants from exposure to legionnaire's disease, just as commercial premises are. By law, to control legionella, you are required to carry out a risk assessment of your premises and introduce measures to control risk where it is found. For more information on how to implement risk assessment and control measures you should contact the Health and Safety Executive.
But how serious should they be taken? Menasche Scharf suggests very seriously
The reports normally follow a pattern. They tell of people being taken ill at a public place, such as at a swimming pool or in an air conditioned building, and of investigators having identified high concentrations of the legionella bacteria in the property's water system as being the cause. In the most severe cases the outbreak becomes fatal, lives being lost as a result of the property owner not taking sufficient precautions to assess and control the risk. But what is less well-publicised is the fact that the legionella bacteria is often present in all natural and manmade water systems, domestic hot and cold water systems included. In small concentrations the bacteria is harmless. Let it accumulate though and you could find yourself dealing with an outbreak of legionnaire's disease in your own home!
What is legionnaire's disease?
Named after a severe outbreak of illness at a meeting of the American Legion in 1976, legionnaire's disease is a potentially lethal form of pneumonia. It is caused by the inhalation of water droplets / moisture from water sources containing high amounts of the legionella bacteria. Not everyone who inhales moisture laden with the bacteria contracts the disease. Fit and healthy people with strong immune systems, especially those younger than 20 years of age, are very unlikely to have a problem. Males over the age of 45 are most at risk. If the victim is a smoker and/or a heavy drinker, or if the person exposed to the bacteria suffers from respiratory illnesses or has an impaired immune system, the chances of catching legionnaire's disease is that much higher.
The symptoms
Self-diagnosis of legionnaire's disease is not easy. The symptoms are very similar to common flu. Look out for…
Fever and high temperature
Chills
Muscle pains
Cough
Diarrhoea
Pneumonia
Mental confusion
The easiest way to determine if you have legionnaire's disease is to visit your doctor. They can prescribe a test to help identify the disease. If the disease is circulating in your community your doctor will be aware of this too - a factor that could aid in your diagnosis.
Legionnaire risk assessment and solutions
Legionnaire's disease is caught only from water sources containing high levels of the legionella bacteria. A build up of the bacteria happens over time in water that stagnates. Optimum conditions for development are when the temperature of the water is consistently between 20°c and 45°c, and where there is rust, sludge or organic material present in the system. Very quickly, over a matter of months, legionella can multiply to a dangerously high concentration.
While it is true that blocks of flats, office buildings and other large-scale premises, where water has a greater opportunity to stagnate, are most at risk of harbouring the legionella bacteria, on rare occasions it can be problematic in residential property. The question you have to ask yourself then is: are you and your family at risk in your own home? If the domestic hot and cold water systems are in almost constant use it is unlikely that the water will remain stagnant enough for the bacteria really to get any sort of a foothold. However, if there are baths, showers and taps in rooms that are rarely used there is an opportunity for the bacteria to grow in the pipes where the water is not moving. If you leave your home unoccupied for several months, again there is a risk that the bacteria could build up in your water system. Redundant pipe work (deadlegs), such as a pipe to a washing machine that is no longer in use, is another environment for the bacteria to grow - especially if there is debris in the system, this being the bacteria's 'food'.
So what should you do if you think that your water system is at risk? Well, unfortunately, there's no alarm system available yet to alert you to a build up of the bacteria. It's therefore down to you to take preventative action. First, consider regularly flushing your water system through - i.e. open all taps and water outlets and let the water run for a few minutes. Also, look to remove any redundant pipe work and clean the system so it is free from debris. Replacing old steel and lead pipes with modern copper alternatives can help reduce the risk too, as can regularly bleeding your radiators. Another precautionary measure is to periodically increase the temperature of your hot water tank to 60°c or above for a few days at a time: the bacteria is unable to survive in water above this temperature. Finally, if you are worried that your water system is already infected, you can use a chlorine disinfectant to cleanse it. Should you opt for this course of action do flush the system through thoroughly before recommencing normal use.
Renting your home?
In a recent change to government legislation providers of residential accommodation are now fully responsible for protecting their tenants from exposure to legionnaire's disease, just as commercial premises are. By law, to control legionella, you are required to carry out a risk assessment of your premises and introduce measures to control risk where it is found. For more information on how to implement risk assessment and control measures you should contact the Health and Safety Executive.
A burning issue
Figures show that there are now more homes fitted with smoke alarms than ever before in the UK. Compared with 20 years ago this represents a ten-fold jump in smoke alarm ownership. Menasche Scharf recommends you follow the pattern
There is still much work to do in terms of promoting smoke alarm awareness. Not only are hundreds of thousands of homeowners and tenants exposed to fire hazards without any sort of smoke alarm device installed in their properties, but a significant number of householders who do have alarms fail to maintain their units, or even check that they are working properly.
TYPES
Ionisation alarms are the cheapest and most readily available. They are highly sensitive to smoke particles and will sound the alarm whenever a threshold number of particles enter the unit's ionisation chamber. But be warned - these types of alarms are easily set off by extraneous smoke from cooking. It is therefore best to place any ionisation alarm that you have well away from the kitchen area, otherwise you may find yourself constantly wafting a tea towel at it!
Optical smoke alarms are the alternative. These units sense fire by using an infrared emitting diode and photo diode to detect smoke particles entering the diode housing chamber. When the light beams are broken the alarm sounds. For smouldering fires, such as those that involve the burning of foam-filled furniture, optical smoke alarms are the best. They can pick up on these sorts of fires much more quickly than an ionisation unit can.
Fire safety officers actually recommend that both types of alarm be installed in your property. But, if you can't afford both, one alarm is better than none!
When making your choice you should also consider the volume of the alarm. All alarms have a a decibel (dBA) rating. This generally ranges from 55dBA (quietest) to 90dBA (loudest). In a normal situation where the alarm is needed to wake healthy adults from a deep sleep at 4am, an alarm of 55dBA to 65dBA will do the job. But, if you are hard of hearing a louder alarm is recommended.
Just to be sure that your smoke alarm will wake you from a deep sleep it is worth testing it out in your own home. You could have someone set off the alarm during the night to see if or how quickly you wake up. If you sleep through the noise, you need a louder alarm!
POSITIONING
As smoke always rises a smoke alarm performs best if it is secured to the ceiling. Ideally, you should have at least one smoke alarm per floor of your property. These should be located in common access areas, such as on your landing and hallway or at the foot of your stairs.
For total peace of mind it is worth considering positioning a smoke alarm in every room where there is a large electrical appliance. This includes lounge areas and bedrooms. Once installed, check your smoke alarms on a regular basis. Use the 'test' button on the alarm unit to make sure it is in good working order every week; change the battery every year, and replace the units completely at least once every ten years. If you have the decorators in, do make a special effort to check your alarm after they've gone. If there's been dust flying about they might have removed the battery to stop it constantly going off.
Remember - a smoke alarm is only of any use if it actually works!
There is still much work to do in terms of promoting smoke alarm awareness. Not only are hundreds of thousands of homeowners and tenants exposed to fire hazards without any sort of smoke alarm device installed in their properties, but a significant number of householders who do have alarms fail to maintain their units, or even check that they are working properly.
TYPES
Ionisation alarms are the cheapest and most readily available. They are highly sensitive to smoke particles and will sound the alarm whenever a threshold number of particles enter the unit's ionisation chamber. But be warned - these types of alarms are easily set off by extraneous smoke from cooking. It is therefore best to place any ionisation alarm that you have well away from the kitchen area, otherwise you may find yourself constantly wafting a tea towel at it!
Optical smoke alarms are the alternative. These units sense fire by using an infrared emitting diode and photo diode to detect smoke particles entering the diode housing chamber. When the light beams are broken the alarm sounds. For smouldering fires, such as those that involve the burning of foam-filled furniture, optical smoke alarms are the best. They can pick up on these sorts of fires much more quickly than an ionisation unit can.
Fire safety officers actually recommend that both types of alarm be installed in your property. But, if you can't afford both, one alarm is better than none!
When making your choice you should also consider the volume of the alarm. All alarms have a a decibel (dBA) rating. This generally ranges from 55dBA (quietest) to 90dBA (loudest). In a normal situation where the alarm is needed to wake healthy adults from a deep sleep at 4am, an alarm of 55dBA to 65dBA will do the job. But, if you are hard of hearing a louder alarm is recommended.
Just to be sure that your smoke alarm will wake you from a deep sleep it is worth testing it out in your own home. You could have someone set off the alarm during the night to see if or how quickly you wake up. If you sleep through the noise, you need a louder alarm!
POSITIONING
As smoke always rises a smoke alarm performs best if it is secured to the ceiling. Ideally, you should have at least one smoke alarm per floor of your property. These should be located in common access areas, such as on your landing and hallway or at the foot of your stairs.
For total peace of mind it is worth considering positioning a smoke alarm in every room where there is a large electrical appliance. This includes lounge areas and bedrooms. Once installed, check your smoke alarms on a regular basis. Use the 'test' button on the alarm unit to make sure it is in good working order every week; change the battery every year, and replace the units completely at least once every ten years. If you have the decorators in, do make a special effort to check your alarm after they've gone. If there's been dust flying about they might have removed the battery to stop it constantly going off.
Remember - a smoke alarm is only of any use if it actually works!
The poison within
Carbon Monoxide poisoning is a real and ever-present danger in the home. Don’t wait till it’s too late to check it out, says Menashe Scharf
Each year more than 250 people in the UK are accidentally poisoned in their homes by carbon monoxide gas from a boiler or cooker. On average, around 50 of these poisonings will be fatal - although some sources suggest the number of fatalities to be higher. Of those who survive a significant number end up enduring long-term injuries and disability that stay with them for the rest of their lives.
Nausea, headaches, dizziness and tiredness are the common symptoms to look out for. If you're feeling ill in your home but feel better outside, at work or on holiday, you could very well be suffering the effects of low-level carbon monoxide poisoning. Frighteningly, exposure to high levels of carbon monoxide wreaks havoc very quickly. Within a couple of minutes of exposure we could suffer serious illness. A few minutes later we could lose consciousness or worse.
The statistics certainly make grim reading - and the chief reason why is that carbon monoxide, to all intents and purposes, is invisible to the human senses. You can't smell it. You can't see it. You can't taste it. Basically, if you don't know that it is there you may not realise that you've been poisoned until it's too late!
Carbon monoxide is a by-product of burning fossil fuels such as gas, oil, coal and wood. When burning takes place in a confined space or in a room without adequate ventilation, the oxygen in the air is used up in the burning process. This results in the release of carbon dioxide (Co2).
This, while not poisonous in itself in this situation, does hinder the supply of oxygen reaching the burning fuel. This in turn makes the burning process inefficient. Fuel that is not fully combusted then begins to throw carbon monoxide out into the air. The silent killer is unleashed.
In the home gas burning and wood burning appliances have the most potential to bring about carbon monoxide poisoning. Gas stoves, gas boilers, wood burners, open coal fires and gas heaters all pose a risk, that is unless you take preventative action to tackle the threat.
TOP SAFETY TIPS
A regular safety check on your fuel burning appliances is the solution that will stop you from becoming another carbon monoxide poisoning statistic.
Check the flame colour of your gas appliances. The flame should burn a brilliant blue. If it burns more orange than blue then you have a problem. Switch the appliance off and call out a gas engineer immediately. For gas boilers and gas fires do get a corgi-registered engineer to service the appliances every year.
Gas flues should be checked to make sure that they are not blocked. It is not that uncommon for birds to choose the end of a flue pipe as a nesting site. This could restrict outflow of carbon monoxide fumes and lead to a build up of the deadly gas around the vented appliance. Likewise, if you have a chimney running off an open fireplace do keep a regular eye out for nesting birds. Employing the services of a chimney sweep can help you out here.
Check too that your air bricks and vents are free from blockages. This is especially important in your kitchen area and any other room where you have gas appliances or a gas boiler.
For the ultimate preventative measure install a carbon monoxide detector in every room of your home where there is a fuel burning appliance. Detectors cost between £10 and £20 each and are fitted to the ceiling in the same way as a smoke alarm. It's a small price to pay for equipment that could end up saving your life.
Each year more than 250 people in the UK are accidentally poisoned in their homes by carbon monoxide gas from a boiler or cooker. On average, around 50 of these poisonings will be fatal - although some sources suggest the number of fatalities to be higher. Of those who survive a significant number end up enduring long-term injuries and disability that stay with them for the rest of their lives.
Nausea, headaches, dizziness and tiredness are the common symptoms to look out for. If you're feeling ill in your home but feel better outside, at work or on holiday, you could very well be suffering the effects of low-level carbon monoxide poisoning. Frighteningly, exposure to high levels of carbon monoxide wreaks havoc very quickly. Within a couple of minutes of exposure we could suffer serious illness. A few minutes later we could lose consciousness or worse.
The statistics certainly make grim reading - and the chief reason why is that carbon monoxide, to all intents and purposes, is invisible to the human senses. You can't smell it. You can't see it. You can't taste it. Basically, if you don't know that it is there you may not realise that you've been poisoned until it's too late!
Carbon monoxide is a by-product of burning fossil fuels such as gas, oil, coal and wood. When burning takes place in a confined space or in a room without adequate ventilation, the oxygen in the air is used up in the burning process. This results in the release of carbon dioxide (Co2).
This, while not poisonous in itself in this situation, does hinder the supply of oxygen reaching the burning fuel. This in turn makes the burning process inefficient. Fuel that is not fully combusted then begins to throw carbon monoxide out into the air. The silent killer is unleashed.
In the home gas burning and wood burning appliances have the most potential to bring about carbon monoxide poisoning. Gas stoves, gas boilers, wood burners, open coal fires and gas heaters all pose a risk, that is unless you take preventative action to tackle the threat.
TOP SAFETY TIPS
A regular safety check on your fuel burning appliances is the solution that will stop you from becoming another carbon monoxide poisoning statistic.
Check the flame colour of your gas appliances. The flame should burn a brilliant blue. If it burns more orange than blue then you have a problem. Switch the appliance off and call out a gas engineer immediately. For gas boilers and gas fires do get a corgi-registered engineer to service the appliances every year.
Gas flues should be checked to make sure that they are not blocked. It is not that uncommon for birds to choose the end of a flue pipe as a nesting site. This could restrict outflow of carbon monoxide fumes and lead to a build up of the deadly gas around the vented appliance. Likewise, if you have a chimney running off an open fireplace do keep a regular eye out for nesting birds. Employing the services of a chimney sweep can help you out here.
Check too that your air bricks and vents are free from blockages. This is especially important in your kitchen area and any other room where you have gas appliances or a gas boiler.
For the ultimate preventative measure install a carbon monoxide detector in every room of your home where there is a fuel burning appliance. Detectors cost between £10 and £20 each and are fitted to the ceiling in the same way as a smoke alarm. It's a small price to pay for equipment that could end up saving your life.
Flood-wise
Menasche Scharf has some timely advice for homeowners on how to deal with a deluge
If you didn’t know already, it was the wettest June on record. In some places as much as a month's worth of rainfall fell in a day. Flooding became a widespread problem through the North and East Midlands, and through Lincolnshire and Yorkshire, where thousands of homes and businesses became submerged under several feet of water for days on end. The situation became so severe that the Army was called in to help.
London and Manchester escaped lightly, more by luck than anything else. The likes of Sheffield and Hull were not so fortunate. Damage to property is expected to run into the £millions in the two cities alone. Elsewhere, the floods claimed lives and cut off whole villages. The clear-up operation may take months, and for many who suffered life will never be the same again.
The questions on everyone's lips right now is why did this happen? Floods often arrive silently and without warning. Intense rainfall is the cause. It saturates the ground and fills up watercourses to bursting point. If the rain continues to fall, rivers then start to overflow, rapidly spreading water across their floodplains. Urban storm drains too struggle to cope. They bubble water back up onto roads and paths, adding to the unfolding flood chaos. When this happens, very quickly - sometimes within minutes - streets and houses can find themselves under water.
Will it happen again? Yes - without a doubt! Flooding is not an uncommon problem, although the areas affected are rarely as widespread as we saw in June 2007. North-west London succumbed to floods that closed roads and tube stations in August 2004. Thunderstorms last July brought a similar fate to parts of Manchester. Next time, it could be you!
Are you at risk?
Low-lying urban areas and locations that are close to rivers or on a river floodplain are most at risk from flooding. These are the places where floodwaters collect when it has nowhere else to go. The government's Environment Agency estimates that over five million of us live in these flood-prone areas, and are at risk of being affected by floods every time there is prolonged intense rainfall.
To help you find out if you are one of the five million at risk, the Environment Agency has published a flood risk map. It highlights all locations across England and Wales that are considered to be 'under threat' from future flood events. Areas are graded from high risk through to low risk. If you find yourself to be in a high risk area you'll need to take steps to counter the threat - and I'm not joking here. Scientists tell us that our world is warming. As a result, flooding in the UK is only likely to become more frequent. If you're in a flood-prone area chances are you'll experience those murky waters lapping at your front door sooner than you might have thought!
Preventative measures
So, what should you do if you find yourself on the flood risk list? Well, you could always move! Failing this, the next best thing is to put in place some preventative measures. If the worst were then to happen and your home or business was flooded, you'd at least know that you'd have done all you could to limit the damage.
Your measures should start with a 'flood escape plan'. So, just as you would do in the event of a fire, plan your escape route away from the danger zone and make sure that everyone in the property knows exactly what to do and where to go. Your priority should be to get to higher ground or to a safe location away from the area's main watercourses. Before leaving your property it is important to turn off your electricity supply at the mains.
If possible, store valuables and irreplaceables in upstairs rooms as a matter of course and be sure to keep all of your building and contents insurance policies up to date. To cover the cost of vehicle damage by floodwater you'll need comprehensive insurance…third party insurance just won't cut it in most instances.
Consider, too, keeping all insurance documents in waterproof bags in an upstairs room. It will certainly make the claims process easier to handle should floodwaters inundate your property.
The aftermath
Always put safety first when clearing up after a flood. You should only return to your property once the floodwaters have subsided, and when you are confident that the building is structurally sound. If you did not have time to switch off the electricity before you evacuated the property then you should consult your energy supplier before re-entering. Stay vigilant too for gas leaks and, if wading through floodwater, be mindful of what might lurk beneath the surface.
If you didn’t know already, it was the wettest June on record. In some places as much as a month's worth of rainfall fell in a day. Flooding became a widespread problem through the North and East Midlands, and through Lincolnshire and Yorkshire, where thousands of homes and businesses became submerged under several feet of water for days on end. The situation became so severe that the Army was called in to help.
London and Manchester escaped lightly, more by luck than anything else. The likes of Sheffield and Hull were not so fortunate. Damage to property is expected to run into the £millions in the two cities alone. Elsewhere, the floods claimed lives and cut off whole villages. The clear-up operation may take months, and for many who suffered life will never be the same again.
The questions on everyone's lips right now is why did this happen? Floods often arrive silently and without warning. Intense rainfall is the cause. It saturates the ground and fills up watercourses to bursting point. If the rain continues to fall, rivers then start to overflow, rapidly spreading water across their floodplains. Urban storm drains too struggle to cope. They bubble water back up onto roads and paths, adding to the unfolding flood chaos. When this happens, very quickly - sometimes within minutes - streets and houses can find themselves under water.
Will it happen again? Yes - without a doubt! Flooding is not an uncommon problem, although the areas affected are rarely as widespread as we saw in June 2007. North-west London succumbed to floods that closed roads and tube stations in August 2004. Thunderstorms last July brought a similar fate to parts of Manchester. Next time, it could be you!
Are you at risk?
Low-lying urban areas and locations that are close to rivers or on a river floodplain are most at risk from flooding. These are the places where floodwaters collect when it has nowhere else to go. The government's Environment Agency estimates that over five million of us live in these flood-prone areas, and are at risk of being affected by floods every time there is prolonged intense rainfall.
To help you find out if you are one of the five million at risk, the Environment Agency has published a flood risk map. It highlights all locations across England and Wales that are considered to be 'under threat' from future flood events. Areas are graded from high risk through to low risk. If you find yourself to be in a high risk area you'll need to take steps to counter the threat - and I'm not joking here. Scientists tell us that our world is warming. As a result, flooding in the UK is only likely to become more frequent. If you're in a flood-prone area chances are you'll experience those murky waters lapping at your front door sooner than you might have thought!
Preventative measures
So, what should you do if you find yourself on the flood risk list? Well, you could always move! Failing this, the next best thing is to put in place some preventative measures. If the worst were then to happen and your home or business was flooded, you'd at least know that you'd have done all you could to limit the damage.
Your measures should start with a 'flood escape plan'. So, just as you would do in the event of a fire, plan your escape route away from the danger zone and make sure that everyone in the property knows exactly what to do and where to go. Your priority should be to get to higher ground or to a safe location away from the area's main watercourses. Before leaving your property it is important to turn off your electricity supply at the mains.
If possible, store valuables and irreplaceables in upstairs rooms as a matter of course and be sure to keep all of your building and contents insurance policies up to date. To cover the cost of vehicle damage by floodwater you'll need comprehensive insurance…third party insurance just won't cut it in most instances.
Consider, too, keeping all insurance documents in waterproof bags in an upstairs room. It will certainly make the claims process easier to handle should floodwaters inundate your property.
The aftermath
Always put safety first when clearing up after a flood. You should only return to your property once the floodwaters have subsided, and when you are confident that the building is structurally sound. If you did not have time to switch off the electricity before you evacuated the property then you should consult your energy supplier before re-entering. Stay vigilant too for gas leaks and, if wading through floodwater, be mindful of what might lurk beneath the surface.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)