Bikur Cholim בקור חולים

Sunday, November 22, 2009

How to Make Use of Solar Energy

How to Make Use of Solar Energy




Solar power is one of the world's primary renewable energy sources. The sun's rays alone produce enough energy to exceed the world's total energy supply by a factor of nearly 10,000! By harnessing just a fraction of that power it is perfectly possible to meet global energy demands despite the continual growth in world population and rising standard of living. But how can we make use of this, one of our most valuable natural energy resources? The answers can be found in technology that exists today - thermal energy transfer technology and light energy transfer technology.




Thermal Energy Technology


Electrical power may be created directly from the sun's heat. Power plants have systems that harness the sun's thermal power by using mirrors to focus the sun's heat energy onto a network of pipes, through which a fluid (water) is pumped. The transfer of thermal energy from the mirrors makes the pipes hot enough to boil the water and thus to create steam. The steam then powers a turbine, which creates electricity. Some solar energy power plants in use today generate enough electricity to power whole cities.




The main issue with thermal energy technologies though is that, for them to work, the sun needs to be shining. When it is cloudy electricity is not generated! For this reason alone its applications are rather limited in the UK - and although it is certainly possible to install such a system at your property for domestic use, one that uses solar light energy to create electrical power is likely to be more cost-effective in the long run.




Solar Light Energy Technology


Converting natural light to electricity is a technology that has been around since the 1950s. Its applications are numerous - from powering something as simple as a calculator to providing energy to spacecraft systems in flight. The most recognised use of this technology however is by way of roof-mounted solar panels.




Solar panels, which are also known as photovoltaic (PV) panels, collect light energy from the sun via an array of silicon-based solar cells. When light from the sun strikes those cells an electrical reaction takes place in the silicon at an atomic level. Electrons are knocked free by the light creating positively and negatively charged surfaces. When these surfaces are 'rejoined' by a connector, a current of electricity is generated between the two opposing sides.




Today, solar light energy technology is very advanced. The sun does not even have to shine for solar panels to generate electricity…good news for us then under the mostly cloudy skies of the UK!




Why install Solar (PV) Panels?


Solar (PV) panels represent one of the cleanest forms of energy generation in the world. Once installed a sufficient array of panels can cover off all your electricity needs at your property. You can even sell any excess electricity you generate to the National Grid! Just imagine that…your electricity company will pay you rather than you pay them!!




The main obstacle most people fear overcoming however is the cost of buying and installing solar (PV) panels. It is true that panels are not cheap - some of the most efficient solar panel systems can cost upwards of £15,000. Thankfully the government does offer up to a 50% grant, potentially slashing your initial costs in half. In terms of the savings that you can make on your electricity bill…and the potential for selling your excess to the National Grid, even the most expensive of installations could pay for themselves within 10 years.




Adding weight to the advantages of having such a system installed is the value that roof-mounted solar (PV) panels can add to your property. As these units become more mainstream, and their cost advantages become increasingly apparent to the public, homes with PV panels will become more sought after. Some sellers have already seen their homes rise in value by 6% and more, just because they have the ability to generate their own electricity!




An Introduction to Green Energy

An Introduction to Renewable Energy



The term 'renewable energy' or  Green Energy has become familiar to many of us in recent years. Described as an inexhaustible source for energy production that harnesses the power of nature in an environmentally friendly way, it is heavily associated with methods for producing electricity that do not require the burning of fossil fuels (Fossil fuels are formed from organic and non-renewable materials over many years.  Coal, mineral oil and natural gas are examples of fossil fuels. Source: DFeS Standards site:Science:Energy Resources:What are fossil fuels?)�

 


As of 2008, some 5% of the UK's electricity supply comes from renewable energy - or "Eco-Friendly - sources. The government is targeting this to rise to 10% by 2010, and then 60% by 2050, thus contributing substantially to the long-term aim of reducing carbon dioxide emissions from the UK.  It is not our intention with this article to explain the problem of releasing carbon dioxide into our eco-system, suffice to know that Carbon dioxide (chemical formula: CO2) is a chemical compound composed of two oxygen atoms covalently bonded to a single carbon atom. It is a gas at standard temperature and pressure and exists in Earth's atmosphere in this state (Source: wikipedia - "Carbon Dioxide").  In higher concentrations: 1% (10,000 ppm) CO2 causes a change in the atmosphere, wich is detrimental to living conditions the world over, see below.




The importance of renewable energy


Traditionally, the UK's energy needs have been met by fossil fuel sources.  Coal-fired power stations provide the nation with electricity; pipelines pump in natural gas extracted from the North Sea and elsewhere, while oil extracted from rock beds around the world keep our vehicles on the road.  All of these energy sources however spew enormous amounts of carbon compounds and other pollutants out into the atmosphere - both in their production (turning raw materials into usable energy) and end use (consumption of the product by burning).  It is natural that they would for the 'fuel' is derived from organic matter - collections of carbon compounds!




But just how bad is the problem? Well the UK emits some 2 million tonnes of carbon dioxide into the sky above Britain every single day. As carbon dioxide is a so-called 'greenhouse gas' - i.e. it prevents surface heat from escaping back into space by bouncing it back down towards the ground - our fossil-fuel energy consumption is contributing significantly to global climate change.




Renewable energy on the other hand is carbon-neutral. That is to say that the generation of energy from renewable sources does not add to the amount of carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere each day, and neither does its consumption.




Clearly then, the more energy that we can generate from renewable 'green' energy sources, the less polluted the air will be and the more efficient we will be at fighting climate change!




Types of renewable energy


There are several economically viable sources of renewable energy in the UK. A brief description of each follows:




Solar Energy: Heat from the sun may be converted into electrical power via photovoltaic (PV) solar panels. Heat energy from the sun's rays can also be transferred directly to warm a hot water system for example, as is the case in Eretz Yisroel (Israel) where most roofs are equipped with what they call a "Dood Shememsh" (Sun Vat)




Wind Energy: 40% of Europe's wind resource blows across the UK. With such a massive natural force it makes sense to convert that energy into electricity, which is achieved courtesy of wind turbines.




Wave Energy: The UK is surrounded by water. We therefore have easy access to areas where we can explore methods of energy creation and transfer of that energy from tidal motion and the movement of ocean waves.




Geothermal Energy: The ground beneath our feet is a source of heat energy. It may be extracted by direct heat transfer, or by piping water through an underground loop, the stored heat in the rock bed below warming the water as it passes by.


 


 


Bio Fuels: Energy crops such as Miscanthus (Elephant Grass) and willow - both of which can be grown in the UK - can be burned in electrical power stations as an alternative to fossil fuels. Certain types of crop-based bio fuels may also be used as an alternative to petrol and diesel to power our vehicles.




Recycling: Whilst the recycling of used products - like plastic and synthetic rubber - might not fall under the strict term of "renewable energy", the reason being that fossil fuels are used, nevertheless it certainly goes half-way in reducing the amount of new fossil fuel that is being used.


 


Renewable energy is the energy of the future. But to get to that 'future'…a future in which our air is cleaner…we have to act NOW. Embrace renewable energy sources and the world will be a more hospitable place for us, our children and grandchildren.




Sunday, November 15, 2009

How to safely install a solar powered hot water system

How to safely install a solar powered hot water system




Living under the cloudy skies of Britain you could be forgiven for assuming that heating the water in your home by solar power is little more than wishful thinking. But, as more and more householders who have solar panels installed on their roofs are finding out, even when the sun's not shining heating your water by solar power still works…and saves money!




Solar power technology for domestic properties


To heat your hot water using solar energy, three components are needed:







  • Solar panels -- These are set on the roof of the property to collect solar heat. For optimum performance it is preferable that the roof slopes to a southerly aspect where sunlight exposure is maximised. Before installation you may need to apply for planning consent. However, you should check with the planning office as changes to permitted development rights for microgeneration technology in April 2008 have helped lift many of the planning restrictions applied to roof-mounted solar panels.






Two types of solar panel are available: flat panels, which collect solar heat through a large absorber plate; and evacuated tube arrays, which collect heat via individual absorber plates within the tubes.







  • Heat exchanger -- A method of transferring heat energy from the solar panels to the domestic hot water system is required. This is often achieved via a manifold system through which the domestic water supply is run. The energy from the panels heats the fluid as it passes through the manifold.









  • Hot water tank -- For storage of the solar heated water. This may be a cylinder that is additional to your existing hot water tank.






Purchase and Installation


Flat panel solar technology costs around £3,000 to £5,000 to purchase and install. Evacuated tube systems are more advanced, more efficient and (naturally) more expensive!




It is highly recommended that a certified professional installer experienced in solar powered hot water systems is employed for the installation. They can also help you assess your requirements and recommend suitable products for your situation and budget.




Solar powered hot water systems normally come with a 5-10 year warranty. They require very little in the way of maintenance - just an annual check to make sure that the panels are free from debris, and that the water is being heated sufficiently. A more thorough examination of the system by a qualified installer is recommended every 3-5 years.




Benefits of solar power


In the UK a solar powered system will typically supply between a third and a half of all your hot water requirements. The fuel 'displaced' can be considerable. In a gas-heated property, savings of up to £70-£80 a year can be expected. For properties whose hot water supply is electrically heated you can factor in a saving of £100-£120 a year! Given that energy prices are rising fast, is it time you considered the solar option?

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Schedule of Dilapidations

Owner-occupiers have an option whether or not to maintain their premises. Lease Tenants do not. The landlord’s core business may be his property and he will want to ensure that the premises are kept in a well-maintained condition. Therefore, the landlords’ surveyor may well be instructed to visit the building and view its condition either during or at the end of the lease and produce a Schedule of Dilapidations.


 


The object of such an inspection is to see if the premises are being kept in a condition required by the lease. The wording of the lease is therefore critical. Many tenants may not be aware that, irrespective of the condition of the property at the start of the lease, they may be required to put their building into good order and maintain it in that way.


 


This repairing obligation may, however, be limited by the specific wording of the lease or by a Schedule of Condition attached to it. The purpose of a Schedule of Condition is to record the condition of the property at the start of the lease in order to limit the repairs that the landlord can request.


 


The Schedule needs to form an integral part of the lease and be referred to in it. A qualified Building Surveyor who understands the implications of commercial leases should prepare the Schedule of Condition and both the landlord and the tenant should sign it. It is simply not sufficient for a new tenant to photograph the premises at the start of the lease, hoping that this will limit his repairing obligation.


 


Philip Campbell, director at Lambert Smith Hampton’s Oxford office explains: “Dilapidations is a minefield for most leased building occupiers. I am still concerned by how many tenants are surprised by the extent, and more importantly, the cost of dilapidations. Too often leases are drawn up and signed without a qualified building surveyor inspecting the premises for the tenant. I am sure that tenants are advised at the start of the lease, by their solicitors, to take professional advice with regard to their repairing liability. I am equally sure that most tenants see this as an unnecessary cost and therefore do not have the survey done. With hindsight I believe most would agree that they should have”.


 


“Many tenants seem to be completely unaware of the extent of their liabilities and can simply not accept that defects present before the commencement of their lease have become their responsibility. By having an Assessment of Potential Dilapidations Liability produced prior to signing a lease a tenant is able to identify areas where expenditure may have to be made to maintain or repair the fabric of the building as required by the covenants of the lease.”


“Having to deal with dilapidations at the lease end, usually within a given time scale, impacts on the business, and it is not the best way to run a successful organisation. In addition the costs incurred by defending a dilapidations claim can be high and therefore impact greatly on the profitability of a business.


 


With professional advice at the start of a lease, many such problems could have been avoided.” Philip goes onto say: “Depending upon the length of lease remaining, schedules of dilapidations can either result in the tenant having to undertake works to their premises or agree a financial settlement with the landlord. The financial settlements can also include legal and surveyors fees, loss of rent claims and the need to pay additional service charge and insurance payments after the end of the lease term.” “Dilapidations law is no respecter of the size or financial standing of an organisation and large national and multinational companies are at as great a risk as smaller independent organisations. I have recently been involved with claims ranging from many hundreds of thousands of pounds down to four figure claims and all would have had a substantial impact on the profitability of the organisations involved.”

Monday, September 14, 2009

Residential Tenancies - The Rules 1

Residential Tenancies -- Know the Rules!


Letting residential properties in the UK requires that the landlord grant the tenant a legal right to reside at the property in question. In UK law this is achieved by raising a tenancy agreement - a legally binding contract between the landlord and tenant (in case of sub-letting, the tenant and sub-tenants) to outline the terms under which the tenant is permitted to occupy the property.




For the majority of private lettings there are three types of tenancy agreement in use. These are:


1) Assured Shorthold Tenancy


2) Assured Tenancy


3) Protected (Rent Act) Tenancy




Assured Short-hold Tenancy


The Assured Short-hold Tenancy (AST) was introduced as part of the 1988 Housing Act - and later, in February 1997, became the default agreement for all new tenancy creations. As its name suggests it is an agreement geared to short-term rentals of six months and more. The terms of the agreement tend to favour the landlord more than the tenant - the landlord is guaranteed the right to regain possession of the property at the expiry of the agreement, so long as 2-months notice is given and Notice is served after the first six months.




Assured Tenancy


An assured tenancy (also known as an ordinary assured tenancy) is widely used for long-term / open-ended rental agreements. Compared with ASTs it affords tenants more security of tenure. The right to remain in the property is firmly with the tenant - meaning that the landlord can only serve notice of repossession in controlled circumstances, such as if the tenant continually defaults on their rental payments, or if the landlord wishes to move back into the property and use it as their home.




But although an assured tenancy might seem to weigh more in favour of the tenant, this can be good for the landlord too. A happy and settled tenant who doesn't want to move provides the landlord with security of income - the building block of a profitable investment strategy.




Protected Rent Act Tenancy


Prior to the introduction of Assured Tenancies under the 1988 Housing Act, one of the primary vehicles for rental tenancies was the protected rent act tenancy. Introduced in 1977 it awards tenants with the right to a fair rent and long-term security of tenure through to the expiry of the agreement. Upon expiry the tenant gains a statutory right to remain in the property on the same terms, indefinitely.


This type of tenancy agreement is no longer issued. However, for landlords taking on properties with sitting tenants, any protected rent act tenancies already in place must be observed - and can be very uneconomical to run!




Know the rules


Residential tenancy agreements are rarely that easy to comprehend. To help you navigate a path through their legal minefields I have assembled below some base rules that you will need to observe, both as landlord and as tenant.




As Landlord





  • Creating a tenancy agreement is absolute. It cannot be changed for another type of agreement upon renewal.






  • Never attempt to force a tenant out of the property. If they won't leave in accordance with the tenancy agreement you have in place you will need to obtain a court possession order.






  • All occupants of legal age in the property must sign the tenancy agreement.






  • Should you be worried about the financial viability of a tenant, obtain a surety / rent guarantee from a third party, such as a parent or guardian.






As Tenant





  • Tenancy agreements protect the rights of the tenant AND the landlord. Should the landlord invoke a clause in the agreement that requires you to leave the property, then you MUST leave.






  • If your tenancy agreement is an AST, and you feel that your rent demand is too high, you may apply to a rent assessment committee to have it reduced so that it is in line with rents for similar properties in the area.






  • Should you breach the terms of your tenancy agreement - for example, if you default on rental payments for several successive months - the landlord has the right to start repossession proceedings against you. 




 


Notices


When a landlord requires a tenant to leave his property, he must serve the correct notice at the correct time in accordance with the tenancy agreement in operation. One of three formal types of notice are used - Section 21a Notice, Section 21b Notice or a Section 8 Notice.


 


Section 21a Notice: This is used to terminate a periodic tenancy that is outside of a fixed term tenancy agreement. So, for example, if a 2-year fixed term tenancy agreement expires without formal renewal, the tenant remains in the property on a periodic tenancy - the period being the gap between rental payments made to the landlord. Once a Section 21a Notice is served on the tenant a minimum of 2 months must pass before the landlord is entitled to regain possession of the property.


 


Section 21b Notice: Formally terminates a fixed term tenancy agreement when that agreement comes to the end of its life and is not to be renewed. Again, a minimum two months notice is required, so should the landlord require possession of the property on the very same day that the fixed term tenancy expires, he should serve the notice exactly 2 months from the end of the agreement - or serve the notice earlier but extend it to coincide with the final day.


 


Section 8 Notice: Should the tenant breach the terms of a fixed tenancy agreement, the landlord has the right to bring the tenancy to a premature close. This they can do by serving a Section 8 notice. Section 8 notices may be served at any time during the tenancy, but should only be served if there is proof that the tenant has breached one or more terms of the agreement. Landlords must serve a Section 8 notice before applying to the court for possession.


 


All notices are available as template forms and can be sourced over the Internet or through stationery outlets on the high street. 

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Fire in the Wall



Fire in the Wall  by Tony Dawe


As you switch on the lights, plug in the TV or turn on the computer, do you ever give a thought to the wires carrying electricity to these fittings? You should:


• Almost half of all homes are at least 50 years old and often fall short of today's electrical safety standards.


• Older homes were not designed to cope with the number of electrical appliances owned by today's families.


• Electrical work in homes in England and Wales is still not protected by building regulations (unlike in Scotland).


Fixed wiring in new homes and any appliances permanently connected to the power supply—ovens, immersion heaters, showers—used to be checked by electricity companies before they switched on the supply. But since privatisation, this is happening less and less. A recent study found that 89 per cent of house buyers wrongly assume a property survey covers electrics.


Here's how to take stock of your home's potential hot spots:


If fuses continuously blow, circuit breakers keep tripping, lights flicker, or appliances stop and start for no reason, it's a sign that the wiring is faulty or the circuit's overloaded. It may be something as simple as the wrong size fuse in a plug or an unsuitable connector in a fuse in the fuse box.


The common response to a shortage of sockets for today's electrical equipment is to use double adaptors or trailing sockets.


Nearly 40 per cent of Britain's homes were built pre-1945. Old wiring doesn't necessarily mean trouble. But be alert for a smell like that of rotting fish. This could indicate that insulation protecting wiring is damaged and that the wires are overheating. There is a simple way for a qualified electrician to check: unscrew sockets or light switches and take a careful look inside. Cracked or crumbling in-sulation is a sure sign of dangerous wiring.


Lighting circuits installed before 1960 were often not earthed, creating a real risk of shocks in older homes if metal light fittings have recently been installed. Electrical fires can also result from arcing, in which a spark "jumps" between two ends of a broken wire or a loose connection. Arcs can heat nearby insulation, which could burst into flames.





House wiring should be checked every ten years. And if you're moving and your prospective property does not have the appropriate electrical certification, get an electrical survey. 



 

 


 


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Thursday, September 3, 2009

Safe Cold Water Storage

Safe Cold Water Storage

Regular readers of this column may recall our article on Gegionnaire’s Disease, which appeared many moons ago.  In the article below we are going to concentrate on a particular aspect of this issue and how to go about safeguarding your tenants' health.
 

Water Tank Covers

Cold water storage is a vital part of a house's plumbing system. Whilst the kitchen cold water tap (and normally any outside tap) is supplied by a direct feed from the water main, other taps, both upstairs and downstairs, are supplied through an indirect gravity feed from the cold water tank or cistern, located in the loft space. The cold water tank itself is supplied by a rising water main from the public water system. Water is held in the tank on a temporary basis until taps are turned on and toilets are flushed. The ball cock system in the tank controls the replacement volume of water from the rising main.




Typically households use bathroom cold taps for brushing teeth as well as for drinking water. These potable uses make it imperative that water fed through to those taps from the cold water tank is clean. But if the tank is uncovered or if the cover is ill-fitting, broken or made from an unsuitable material, the water from the tank may be anything but suitable for consumption!




Dangers of an uncovered tank


Your cold water tank needs to be covered for two reasons. The first is to prevent insects and vermin from entering the water system. Unwelcome visitors might include anything from mice and birds to wasps, spiders and numerous smaller insects. All can cause the water to become contaminated - especially if the creatures die and decompose in the tank!




The second reason your tank must be covered is to prevent too much light from falling onto the water. Stored water may become susceptible to algae growth and to the cultivation of other waterborne bacteria should the water remain stagnant for too long and be exposed to light. By covering the tank with a dense material the water is isolated from light sources, staving off any such issues.




Getting the right covering


Across the nation cold water tanks in lofts are covered by a variety of materials, from standard close-fitting covers that comply with the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 to improvised covers made from wooden boards, mesh and even curtaining fabric! Some coverings are clearly unsuitable, while others are adequate but might benefit from being 'upgraded' to comply with government legislation.




The Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 apply to all premises with cold water tanks / cisterns. It replaced the Water Bylaws in July 1999, and requires that properties connected to the public water supply have appropriate storage tanks installed and that they are maintained accordingly to prevent contamination. Included in the regulations are guidelines for tank coverings. These should be close-fitting to the tank - but not airtight - and should be of an opaque material that will not cause contamination in the tank when water condenses on its underside.





Coverings that comply with the regulations are available from good DIY stores and from plumbing centres. Some coverings are known as Bylaw 30 kits. This is in reference to the pre-1999 bylaws on safe cold water storage. Is it about time you checked the suitability of your cold water tank covering?

 

Revised version sent 11-08-2008

 


Water Tank Covers - Safe Cold Water Storage


 


Cold water storage is a vital part of a house's plumbing system. Whilst the kitchen cold water tap (and normally any outside tap) is supplied by a direct feed from the water main, other taps, both upstairs and downstairs, are supplied through an indirect gravity feed from the cold water tank or cistern, located in the loft space. The cold water tank itself is supplied by a rising water main from the public water system. Water is held in the tank on a temporary basis until taps are turned on and toilets are flushed. The floating ball cock system in the tank controls the replacement volume of water from the rising main.


 


Typically households use bathroom cold taps for brushing teeth and bedroom sinks for washing the hands or for a cup of water. These potable (drinking-quality water) uses make it imperative that water fed through to those taps from the cold water tank is clean. But if the tank is uncovered or if the cover is ill-fitting, broken or made from an unsuitable material, the water from the tank may be anything but suitable for consumption!


 


Dangers of an uncovered tank


Your cold water tank needs to be covered for two reasons. The first is to prevent insects and vermin from entering the water system. Unwelcome visitors might include anything from mice and birds to wasps, spiders and numerous smaller insects. All can cause the water to become contaminated - especially if the creatures die and decompose in the tank!  Recent cases of bird droppings causing water poisoning have been reported with potential very dangerous consequences.


 


The second reason your tank must be covered is to prevent too much light from falling onto the water. Stored water may become susceptible to algae (organisms) growth and to the cultivation of other waterborne bacteria should the water remain stagnant for too long and be exposed to light. By covering the tank with a dense material the water is isolated from light sources, staving off any such issues.


 


Getting the right covering


Across the nation cold water tanks in lofts are covered by a variety of materials, from standard close-fitting covers that comply with the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 to improvised covers made from wooden boards, mesh and even curtaining fabric! Some coverings are clearly unsuitable, while others are adequate but might benefit from being 'upgraded' to comply with current government legislation, for example, ideally, the temperature is not to exceed 20° C.


 


The Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 apply to all premises with cold water tanks / cisterns. It replaced the Water Bylaws in July 1999, and requires that properties connected to the public water supply have appropriate storage tanks installed – approved by the Water Regulations Advisory Scheme (WRAS), and that they are maintained accordingly to prevent contamination. Included in the regulations are guidelines for tank coverings. These should be close-fitting to the tank - but not airtight - and should prevent contamination in the tank.


 




Coverings that comply with the regulations are available from good DIY stores and from plumbing centres. Some coverings are known as Bylaw 30 kits. This is in reference to the pre-1999 bylaws on safe cold water storage. Is it about time you checked the suitability of your cold water tank covering?




Friday, August 28, 2009

The Importance of Due Diligence for a Landlord

The Importance of Due Diligence for a Landlord


It is an unfortunate but much realised fact that we live in an age stifled by regulation. Few actions we take in the public domain escape the watchful gaze of politicians and lawmakers these days. There's seemingly a rule for everything - and if we don't comply the consequences can be severe.


 


This is no more acutely felt than in the rental property market. Once upon a time letting out property was a simple and rather straightforward task. A tenant would sign a lease agreement, and if they did not abide by it, in no time he would be out and replaced by someone else capable and willing to pay the rent. Tenants' rights were minimal (if non-existent in some particular cases) and the idea of actually taking a landlord to court and securing a successful prosecution was pretty much unheard of, even going back just a few decades.


 



Of course rules and regulations are in place for a reason; the rental property market is a safer and fairer environment because of the legislation in place. Finally, after much lobbying, being at the wrong end of the equation has now its price tag - for tenants and landlords alike

 


What is due diligence?


But progress comes at a price - and that price is landlord due diligence.  Due diligence is best described as a detailed investigation into the 'information aspects' that govern a situation, and on which subsequent decisions and actions are based. For landlords it involves delving into the rules and regulations that apply to the rental property market and then making sure that they comply to the letter of the law.


 


For example, it is a statutory requirement for landlords to abide by the Gas Safety (Installation & Use) Regulations 1998 when letting out their property. These regulations legally bind landlords to ensure the safety and proper function of all gas appliances, pipework and flues in the rental property. This includes maintaining at all times a valid Gas Safety Certificate and providing proof to the tenant of the property's compliance before the tenant takes up residency.


 


Failure to follow procedure here is likely to result in prosecution for the landlord and even a possible jail term -- especially if the tenant was injured because the landlord neglected to perform adequate due diligence. But how, as a landlord, do you know when adequate due diligence is performed?


 


How to perform adequate due diligence


Making sure you comply with the law when renting out your property might sound a bit daunting. But in reality it needn't be too difficult to achieve. All you have to do is find a reliable information source that details landlording regulations and then apply those rules to your own circumstances.


 


To help get you started you should look for information on the following areas of legislation…





  • Gas Safety (Installation & Use) Regulations 1998 -- gas safety in the property.






  • The Furniture and Furnishings (Fire) (Safety) Regulation 1988 (as amended 1993) -- law pertaining to furnishings supplied to the property.






  • The Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994 -- electrical safety at the property.






  • Plugs and Sockets (Safety) Regulations 1994 -- plugs & socket safety.






  • Building regulations part P, Electrical safety in dwellings -- compliance with work on electrical installations at the property.






  • Selective licensing of private landlords – (Housing Act 2004) -- Local Housing Authority licensing.






  • Houses in multiple occupation (HMO) - (Housing Act 2004) -- rules governing HMOs.






  • Section 47, Landlord and Tenant Act 1987 -- rules applicable to demand for rent.






  • Section 11, Landlord and Tenant Act 1985 -- law pertaining to structure and maintenance of property.






  • Taxation of Income from Land (Non-Residents) Regulations 1995 -- Inland Revenue legislation.






  • The Accommodation Agencies Act 1953 -- rules relating to advertising rental property.






  • The Protection from Eviction Act 1977 -- possession of property.






  • The Data Protection Act 1998






  • Energy efficiency certificates




 

Applicable legislation relating to the rental property market might seem complex and quite convoluted at times. But, by choosing to spend some time gathering information in these areas and then performing your own due diligence to make sure that you comply with all that is being asked, you'll have little to worry about. You can then be safe in the knowledge that you have done all in your power to ensure the safety of your tenants, their visitors, the property and its contents and most importantly: protect yourself and your business at the same time.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

New Service Lineup

Power Safety - Keeping Your Power Safe

Power Safety is a company committed to protecting the safety of electrical wiring at home, in business and public buildings (schools, offices, shops and warehouses).

Our experts will guide you in the maze of an ever changing legal environment regarding:

• Electricity related Enactments by Government

• Health & Safety Executive Legislation

• NICEIC rules and regulations

What is NICEIC ?

NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting) is the electrical contracting industry’s independent voluntary body for electrical installation matters throughout the UK, especially to help with compliance of Part P of the Building Regulations 2004, the Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994 and the Consumer Protection Act 1987 respectively.

Welcome to Power Safety - Your Flexible Choice

Contact us for a reliable, fast and price conscious service:

- Reliable: We use only vetted and NICEIC certified engineers;

- Fast: Turnaround of certificates within 24 working hours;

- Price: we do it right the first time round, saving you money on re visits, repairs and recharges!

Q: Do I need a NICEIC Inspection?

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Monday, August 3, 2009

PAT – Portable Appliance Testing

Computers, vacuum cleaners, toasters, hairdryers – we all have portable appliances in our homes that run off mains electricity. We acquire these items on a promise that they will work, and that they are safe to use. But over time equipment can become damaged, or simply deteriorate through regular use. Wiring may become loose, internal components may malfunction – any of which could render a once safe to use portable appliance as dangerous!

To make sure these items are always safe to use it is worth getting them periodically tested using a Portable Appliance Testing (PAT) service. Many approved NICEIC electrical contractors offer this service.


Types of appliance
Any electrical appliance with a plug on it may be classed as a portable appliance and therefore be eligible for the PAT service. These include:
· Movable items that are easily transported around the room (toaster, food mixer etc) and items that are moved as part of their operation (vacuum cleaner, lawnmower etc).
· Fixed equipment and appliances that plug directly into the mains. This covers off most kitchen appliances such as washing machine, refrigerator and microwave. Included here are items like televisions and computers.
· Handheld devices can also be tested. For example a hairdryer or an electric razor.
Once an appliance has been tested it will be marked as passed. The PAT tester will also supply you with a log or report of items that have passed, and those which have failed. Any failed items will need to be fixed before use again. This can sometimes be a simple matter of opening up the plug and rewiring the item. However, if a more serious problem has been identified then the item will need to be discarded.


Gas
Portable appliance testing is not just confined to electrical appliances. Safety tests can be carried out on gas appliances too. So, your gas fire and gas cooker for example should be inspected periodically to ensure that they are safe to use and comply with existing gas regulations. A CORGI registered engineer will need to perform the safety test, and will issue a safety certificate for items that pass.


Landlords
Portable appliance testing is not a legal directive for electrical items – that is to say that there is no direct obligation on landlords to ensure portable appliances (electrical) supplied to a tenant as part of a rental property are tested on a regular basis. However, current legislation demands that all reasonable care is taken to guarantee a tenant’s safety in rental property – specifically the Consumer Protection Act 1987 and the Health and Safety at Work Act 1974. With this in mind it is strongly advisable that any electrical equipment provided to the tenant with the property be checked annually, both for yours and your tenant’s peace of mind. Should any issues then arise from problematic electrical equipment in rented property, as landlord you will be able to prove that reasonable steps were taken to ensure the tenant’s safety.

Old Homes - A Burning Issue

Old homes-a burning issue
Menasche Scharf has some timely warnings on maintaining houses from another era


Period properties, by their very nature, are older-style buildings constructed in an age when safety regulations were less stringent than they are today. Many contain copious amounts of wood and other flammable construction materials, such as thatching on the roof - all of which could feed a fire more efficiently than when compared to the fire resistant materials used in modern properties. If electrical, gas and other installations are not updated in line with current safety legislation, your period property may well be at high risk from fire.


19th century thatched cottage burns to the ground
Douglas Hatterman had a lucky escape last year when his beloved thatched cottage went up in flames, along with his most prized possessions. Faulty wiring dating back to the 1960s was to blame. Investigations after the fire showed that some of the wiring had corroded. The fire started close to wood panelling, and then spread to the wooden stairs and eventually up into the thatched roof. The cottage burned quickly, largely gutting the property before emergency services were on the scene. However, had the wiring been inspected and updated where necessary by a NICEIC approved contractor, it is quite possible that the fire could have been avoided.
Use government safety regulations and guidelines to stay safe
So, if you live in or rent a period property, what should you or your landlord be doing to stay safe in a period home? The answer is to observe government regulations and use their advisories and guidelines to make the property a safer place. Here's how:
Electricity: Deterioration of electrical wiring is the principal hazard to contend with in period properties. It is strongly recommended that all electrical installations and wiring be professionally inspected by a NICEIC-approved engineer annually. Should wiring be more than 10 years old, rewiring is highly desirable.
To lessen further the risk of fire from wiring in thatched properties, it is advisable that ceiling mounted lighting is limited or avoided. Exposed cables running across attic floorboards could be targeted by vermin living in the thatch, and gnawed through. Should you have wiring in the ceiling consider placing a minimum of 30 minutes worth of fire resistant material between the wires and the thatch.
On the outside of the property it is also a requirement to space external electrical connections - such as aerial leads - to the property a minimum of 300mm away from the thatch.
Gas: The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 govern gas safety in all types of properties in the UK, including period properties. If you reside in the property as an owner-occupier the law advises that gas appliances and flues should be safety checked annually by a CORGI-registered engineer. Should you be residing in the property as a tenant, or if you are the landlord, the regulations demand that an annual gas safety check is carried out by a CORGI-registered engineer, and that a Gas Safety Certificate is issued. A copy of the certificate MUST be given to the tenant within 28 days.
A fire in any property is always bad news. In a period property, where the construction is of wood or where wood forms a substantial part of the structure, it is especially bad news as it can burn very quickly. If you live in or own a period property always heed the government's electricity and gas safety advice / regulations, fit smoke detectors and alarms, and have a fire escape plan in mind should the worst happen.

Residential Tenancies - The Rules 2

Residential Tenancies -the rules (2)

Letting residential properties in the UK requires that the landlord grant the tenant a legal right to reside at the property in question. In UK law this is achieved by raising a tenancy agreement. In this second article, Menasche Scharf explains further the technicalities in layman’s language
Residential tenancy agreements are rarely that easy to comprehend. To help you navigate a path through their legal minefields I have assembled below some base rules that you will need to observe, both as landlord and as tenant.

As Landlord
· Creating a tenancy agreement is absolute. It cannot be changed for another type of agreement upon renewal.
· Never attempt to force a tenant out of the property. If they won't leave in accordance with the tenancy agreement you have in place you will need to obtain a court possession order.
· All occupants of legal age in the property must sign the tenancy agreement.
· Should you be worried about the financial viability of a tenant, obtain a surety / rent guarantee from a third party, such as a parent or guardian.

As Tenant
· Tenancy agreements protect the rights of the tenant AND the landlord. Should the landlord invoke a clause in the agreement that requires you to leave the property, then you MUST leave.
· If your tenancy agreement is an AST, and you feel that your rent demand is too high, you may apply to a rent assessment committee to have it reduced so that it is in line with rents for similar properties in the area.
· Should you breach the terms of your tenancy agreement - for example, if you default on rental payments for several successive months - the landlord has the right to start repossession proceedings against you.
Notices
When a landlord requires a tenant to leave his property, he must serve the correct notice at the correct time in accordance with the tenancy agreement in operation. One of three formal types of notice are used - Section 21a Notice, Section 21b Notice or a Section 8 Notice.
All notices are available as template forms and can be sourced through stationery outlets on the high street.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Safe as houses

Safety –a tenant’s charter

As we move through the first decade of the 21st century, it has never been safer to live in rented accommodation in Britain. Over the years the government has tightened up on its rules and regulations that relate to rental property. They have done so to heighten the level of protection that tenants receive, and to help them stay safe. So, just what has the government done? Menasche Scharf lists the main legal obligations on the landlord.

The government has made your landlord more responsible for property safety issues than at any point in the recent past. The onus is now firmly on the landlord to ensure that their rental properties comply with property safety legislation, and that everything possible is done to safeguard you, the tenant. This includes new as well as existing tenancies, licences or leases which may fall under the regulatory reforms in one way or another, as you will see as you read on. To this end the landlord is obliged to observe a number of property safety regulations. These are as follows:

Landlord and Tenant Act 1985 -- In accordance with this Act your landlord is fully responsible for the upkeep and continued maintenance of your property's interior and exterior. It is a wide remit covering everything from your property's main structural components (roof, walls, floors etc) to 'installed' items that come with the property - the wallpaper on the walls for example, or the gas heater. The required level of maintenance can often be subjective. That said, landlords must do all in their power to ensure that a high standard of maintenance and repair is adhered to, and that it is one that heavily favours the tenant's safety. So, should tiles work loose on a roof, or a leak develop that makes the wallpaper mouldy - two issues that could 'harm' the tenant in some way - the tenant should inform the landlord, who then MUST remedy the situation.


The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 -- Strict rules apply to gas installations and appliances in rented property. Again, it is the landlord's responsibility to ensure compliance - and that means an annual gas safety check by a CORGI-registered gas engineer. The engineer will test all installations and ensure that gas supply into the property is safe. Assuming that the property passes inspection the landlord will be issued with a Gas Safety Certificate, a copy of which existing tenants are legally entitled to - and should be issued with by the landlord within 28 days of the inspection. One word of warning here - ONLY move into rental property where there is a valid gas safety certificate in place, or after a gas safety check has been arranged. To do otherwise could endanger your life and the life of your family.


The Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994 -- Any electrical equipment supplied with the property must be certified as safe to use. So, for example, if an electric cooker has been installed into the kitchen, the landlord must provide evidence that it works safely.
The Furniture and Furnishings (Fire Safety Amendment) Regulations 1993 -- Just as with electrical equipment, any furniture and furnishings supplied with the property MUST comply with legal safety requirements. The main issue here is that all furniture and furnishing supplied by the landlord are passed as fire resistant. Upholstered furniture should have a sewn-in label approving it as fire resistant. If it has not you must alert your landlord and have the items removed / replaced. Floor coverings such as carpets and rugs likewise need to conform to this regulation, although no label is expected to be left on the floor.

For your own protection
Tenants who perceive that their landlords are failing to comply with safety legislation have a right to complain. If you are in this position you should first make contact with the landlord - preferably in verbal form, duly followed by confirming the content of the conversation in writing - and ask them to remedy the situation. If they do not you should involve your local authority, if that is indeed applicable to the situation. Otherwise, you can report the matter to the police, as failure of your landlord to comply with property safety regulations is a criminal offence. Remember, it is LIFE that could be endangered here - so take action for your own protection.

Current affairs - Electricity Wise

Adding electrical power to your property is actually straightforward, says Menasche Scharf, but do be mindful of the law and other options available to provide you with power.


Most homes and businesses in the UK are connected to mains electricity. The electrical supply we take for granted originates from the many power stations dotted around the country, and is delivered to us via National Grid - owner of the UK's power transmission network. Electricity suppliers are then responsible for cabling it into individual properties - and it is they who you need to contact should you wish to have your property connected to the mains.
Inside your property
When new homes are built and when old properties are renovated and brought back into use they will need to be connected to the mains electricity supply. The work begins inside the property with its wiring / re-wiring. There are specific rules relating to the internal electrical wiring of property - the most relevant one being that all wiring must conform to Part P of the Building Regulations. To undertake electrical wiring you will need to employ the services of a 'competent person' qualified to do the work - such as a professional electrician, or, if you choose to do it yourself, you will need to inform the local council's building control department. In the latter case an inspector will visit the property and pass the wiring as safe for use.
Good planning is the key to a good wiring job. Work out where you need lights, power sockets and other electrical outlets before you start - and where best it is to place your wiring cabinet…the central point of your wiring scheme.
Mains cabling
How your property is to be connected to the mains supply rather depends upon where you can access the local supply network, and how much mains cabling is already in place. For example, on a newly-built estate, mains connection may involve a short run of cabling from the road outside. For more isolated properties extensive trenching and cabling may be needed.

All mains cabling MUST conform to IEE Wiring Regulations. This dictates that cabling is buried at a minimum depth of 50mm below the surface, and is reinforced / protected against damage. Unless your property has never had mains electricity before, the cabling you need should already be in place to the required standard beneath your property's ground flooring. If it is not then you'll need to make allowances for this to be put in place prior to connection of the supply from outside.


Connection
Connection from outside is the job of your local electricity supply company. They will cost up the project and quote you a price for running cabling off the local supply network and into your property. Depending upon the extent of work required, the job may be quick and cheap or long and expensive!
Note: If mains cabling and internal electrical wiring is already in place at your property, adding an electrical power supply might simply be a case of asking your electricity company to reconnect the old supply route.


Mains alternatives
Adding electrical power to your property does not necessarily mean that you have to rely on mains electricity. There are other ways that electricity can be 'generated'. Here are some ideas:
Photovoltaic (Solar) Panels: Solar panels fitted to the roof of your property can help you generate your own electricity - even on cloudy days!
Wind turbines: A small-scale wind installation in your garden can create electricity from the air.
Ground Source Heat Pumps: Extract heat energy from the ground and transfers it to your home.
Micro Hydro Generation: Good if you have a fast-flowing water source on your land!

One warning: When your fuse is tripping (too) frequently, just check; if you are using specialised electrical equipment, for example a Humidifier or high usage appliance such as a Fridge/Freezer, it could well be that the safety threshold on the fuse is higher than the standard of safety set by the manufacturer and this causes the fuse to trip.

Overpowering undervalued

Minimising the risk of Electrical Fires around the home could cost your dearly, says Menasche Scharf

Invisible to the eye and often taken for granted, electricity is something few of us would like to be without in our lives. Yet, as familiar as it is to us in our daily routines, the dangers it poses are not as well recognised. Fires caused by faulty electrical equipment or misuse of appliances are common. In the UK there are around 12,000 electrical fires every year - incidents that result in around 20-25 fatalities a year and some 600 injuries. Even something as simple as an overloaded multi-plug - sometimes referred to as a multi-way - or adaptor can cause a fire. By taking time to assess electrical fire risks in your home or rental property however, you can stack the odds in your favour of staying off those electrical fire statistics charts!

Looking for risk
The first step in minimising your risk of electrical fires at your property is to understand the most common causes of such fires. The number-one electrical fire originator in the home is faulty or loose wiring. Electrical systems tend to deteriorate over time and with use; think of the many times electricity plugs are yanked out from the wall socket, by accident or with intent. Cables may become worn and connections may work themselves loose as wires become brittle. If the wiring in your property is older than 10-15 years it is a good idea to have it checked.

Drawing too much current into sockets and multiplugs can cause fires too - especially if plugs have loose wires or contain fuses with inappropriate Amp ratings (Amp is an abbreviation for "Ampere", the unit of electrical current). A plug fitted with a higher amperage than the Electrical Circuit is designed for can overload, causing the wire to overheat and physically melt the wire, leading to a fire. As a rough guide, an electrical circuit using 1,000 watts ("watt" (symbol: 'W'), a Unit of Power) should have a fuse of 4 Amps fitted to it. Advancements in fuse design over the years means that if the correct fuse is used it will act very efficiently in breaking the current before the plug or socket overheats.

Minimising the risk of fire
Once aware of the risks it is much easier to manage them in a way that dramatically reduces the chances of you suffering an electrical fire. Where risks are identified action is required - and the number one action is to have equipment and electrical wiring inspected at regular intervals. As a guide, The National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting (NICEIC) recommends that all domestic electrical installations should be professionally inspected at least every ten years. They also suggest that wiring throughout the property be examined and upgraded to prevent degraded wires from starting a fire.

Electrical appliances should be inspected too using a PAT testing company. How often the inspection takes place depends upon how often the equipment is used. Electric blankets, for instance, should be serviced once every three years.

Additionally, for all new electrical installations made in homes and rental properties, it is imperative that the work carried out complies with the new Part-P electrical regulations.

Other actions you should take to minimise the risk of an electrical fire include:
· Keeping electrical appliance cables uncovered (i.e. don't run them under the carpet)
· When using an extension cable do uncoil it to prevent overheating
· Don't put a high wattage bulb into a light fitting designed for lower wattage bulbs
· Switch off electrical appliances when not using them
· Keep electrical sockets and appliances away from moisture sources
Finally, ALWAYS have smoke alarms installed in your property and TEST them weekly to ensure that they work!

Remember, if your electric doorbell is defective and you call an electrician for a repair, don't expect him to 'know' this; give him your contact telephone number just in case...

The P factor

Recent regulations affecting electrical installation work will give peace of mind to home-owners, landlords and tenants, says Menasche Scharf


Those who have had any work done on electrical installations in the home or rental property during the last couple of years will already be familiar with "Part-P" legislation. For the uninitiated, Part-P is a new requirement introduced into the Building Regulations code by the government. It came into force on January 1, 2005 and was subsequently updated in April 2006. Its purpose is to reduce the number of faulty electrical installations present in homes across the UK, and to make it more difficult for "cowboy" installers to fit unsafe electrics into a property. The ultimate aim to is to ensure the reduction of fires, injuries and even fatalities that are caused by unsafe electrical installations. Given that compliance with Part-P is now a legal requirement when undertaking all types of electrical work in a dwelling, the new regulation is one that we should all become familiar with, whether that be as a householder, as a landlord or as both.

What must we do to comply with the Part-P regulation?
Part-P legislation requires that any electrical work carried out in our homes or rental properties must now satisfy one of two criteria:

1 - The electrical work must be performed by a firm or installer registered on a government-approved competent persons scheme. Membership of the scheme is awarded to installers who are proven capable of self-certifying that electrical work carried out for its clients complies with the Building Regulations, specifically Part-P of those regulations. This criterion is the preferred compliance option.

2 - If electrical work is carried out by an installer who is not registered as a "competent person" - as a property owner it is your decision as to whether to use a registered competent person or not - the unregistered installer must arrange for the work to be inspected upon completion by the local authority's building control department.
As owner of the property and recipient of any electrical works performed on it, the onus is on you to ensure that whoever you use to do the job complies with either one of these criteria. Failure to do so is a criminal offence and could result in you and the installer receiving a hefty fine or worse.

Can I carry out electrical DIY work?
The short answer is 'yes'! Anyone can carry out electrical DIY work on their own property. However, the work performed, no matter how minor, must comply with Part-P of the Building Regulations. This means that you either must be registered as a "competent" person yourself, or else notify your local authority's building control department of the work so that they can come and inspect it.

There is, however an exception to this rule. If you are installing extra power points, new lighting switches or making alterations to an existing electrical circuit that is not in the bathroom, kitchen or outdoors, you do not need to advise the building control department about the work. For everything else - including new sockets in the bathroom, kitchen and outdoors - you do need to contact the building control department, or be registered as a competent person to self-certify the work.

A safer world with Part-P
As a report by The Electrical Safety Council at the end of March states: "statistics of deaths by electricity are shocking" - it is, therefore, no wonder that the government is finally clamping down on this sorry state of affairs. Indeed, before the introduction of Part-P every year would see, on average, 10 deaths from faulty electrical installations, around 750 injuries and some 2,000 house fires caused by unsafe electrics. Now, with Part-P in place, those figures are expected to fall dramatically. This is one piece of legislation that really could save lives!

Emergency call

When disaster strikes in the home, you will need immediate service. Emergency contracts are essential for both landlord and owner occupier, says Menashe Scharf

With winter now upon us, and the central heating in overdrive, millions of gas boilers in homes around the

country are being pressed into constant use. Some domestic boilers might not have seen the skilful hands of a CORGI-registered engineer for years; a lack of regular service history leading to inefficient fuel burning and potentially higher running costs.

As mentioned previously, an annual boiler service is, in tenanted accommodation- of course- a lawful requirement, and should be arranged by the landlord. But in private domestic residences no such law exists. For one's own safety it is highly recommended that an annual boiler service, and indeed an annual service of other gas, electrical and plumbing installations, be carried out by a competent person. It inspires confidence in the equipment to perform, and instills peace of mind -- an assurance that you have done all in your power to prevent your equipment breaking down as the result of neglect.

Yet, serviced or not, your central heating system is not guaranteed to last forever. Wear and tear through regular use could lead to corrosion and breakage of parts -- something an annual service may not pick up. So come that dreaded day when you find your boiler lifeless, your gas cooker dead or an electrical installation in your home not working, what should you do? The answer is to be prepared and take out a 24-hour Emergency Contract.

Like an emergency rescue service, this is an increasingly popular option for homeowners, landlords and tenants who need immediate assistance with a malfunctioning boiler or a total heating installation breakdown. The emergency contract provides 24-hour repair services, and can be arranged to cover a comprehensive set of eventualities, right through from significant issues such as boiler failure and electrical supply problems, to help with a blocked toilet and leaking taps.

Before choosing an Emergency Contract it is critical to assess how such a contract is supported by the provider. The quality of service varies from supplier to supplier.

For example, any Emergency Provider will claim that they provide an efficient response service right across the UK mainland, backed up by a network of literally thousands of Engineers, most of them on 24/7 standby. This promise, when put to test in a real-life situation, must stand up to their agreed service level agreements.

So what happens when you are faced with an emergency and you dial the call centre? When an emergency call comes in they promise to get a qualified engineer to your property within twenty four hours, anywhere in the country. It's a service you can really rely on for any emergency repair covered under your contract for gas, electricity, plumbing, drainage and household appliances - according to the levels of service that you paid for.

Emergency contracts are bespoke, so are built around your needs, whatever they may be.
To get you started you will normally choose from a number of base service levels. These can then be customised to varying degrees to establish an emergency contract that addresses your requirements. Basic emergency contracts offer 24/7 cover for your gas boiler. On top of that, you can add annual inspection and servicing of your boiler.

You can even use the emergency contract to set up annual CORGI-registered service inspections of other gas appliances -- a massive plus-point for landlords in their remit to ensure the safety of their tenants.
For a more comprehensive level of service that includes one year's cover for plumbing, electricity, drainage, pest control, house keys, hotel accommodation and roof-related emergency situations in domestic dwellings.

What's more, there are companies who would not charge for call-outs, nor for replacement parts -these can all be included in the contract.

If you are thinking of taking up an emergency contract, do consider that these agreements cannot be used to cover normal day-to-day property maintenance. Descaling / desludging of central heating pipes or the regular replacement of parts through wear and tear -- tap and cistern washers to give an example -- are issues that you will need to deal with yourself. Likewise, an emergency contract is not a replacement for your buildings and contents insurance. Your emergency contract might act like an insurance policy, but it is only valid in emergency call-out situations.

Household disasters can strike at any time. If your local tradesmen are busy on other jobs they might not be able to help you for days, or even weeks. But, one call to your emergency contract provider will get the problem fixed without delay, no matter what the season, or time of day (or night). It's a product very much worth having, if only for the peace of mind that it brings.